I have this locomotive that came with just about everything built/attached except the front and rear handrails. They are in a small bag and appear quite fragile.
My question… should use glue when I place them in the proper holes
I already put the sunshades on (not shown in this pic)
If the handrails fit firmly in place I would not glue them. Using glue would be the last resort.
My two cents, Cheers, the Bear. 
Thank you
I agree with the Bear. Usually they press fit snug enough without requiring glue, whether intentionally by the manufacturer or not. See how it goes, you can always then glue them if necessary.
Regards, Chris
If you need to use something to hold them in use a clear silicone that way it can be removed and not hurt the plastic.
Excellent idea… had not thought of that. Thank you.
A forgiving, yet strong glue of many uses is Canopy Cement, gets tacky quick and dries clear and flexible, but with a long full cure time. Small amounts of errant cement caught while still tacky can be carefully removed with the tip of a toothpick and or tweezers. Regards, Peter
100% what I would do… a dab of clear silicon applied with a toothpick. That way, if the loco/car is handled too roughly (or dropped), the part will pop off, instead of breaking off. Much easier to repair.
Whatever the adhesive used anywhere for anything, a minimal application is always best. I used to build plastic structure kits with just a little tiny dab of Walters goo at the top and bottom of each corner, that way I could get the building apart if I ever felt like doing an interior detailing job or adding lighting or something.
I have bought buildings already built from kits on tables of estate stuff at hobby shops. Almost all seem like they used an entire tube of plastic cement on one corner, no Thermonuclear weapon would ever loosen that joint. That kind of work is usually a accompanied by plastic cement fingerprints all over the place too.
You should see the automobile kits I used to build!
The funny thing being that I thought I was following the instructions to ‘use glue sparingly’.
Now when I was a kid, the stuff I used was called Styrofoam-Weld, and you’d easily understand why glue-sniffing was popular if you got a whiff of its probably-teratogenic combination of solvents. The glue-bomb effects that stuff produced were… well, let’s say the product lived up to its name with any kit-maker’s version of polystyrene.
I always used those Testors plastic cements… I rather preferred the red tube over the blue “non-toxic” one, as, despite the former’s grisly labeling as “toxic” and the like, I simply couldn’t stand the very slow pace at which the non-toxic dried (and how weak the bonds were), and it didn’t help that the “safety glue” had an infuriatingly sweet fruity scent to it.
I was never able to get the blue Testor’s to work properly either – not that I bothered with it more than once or twice. It was a miserable day when they put that stuff in the ‘red’ formula to make it smell mustardy – that never seemed to work as well afterward.
For some reason I can’t get decent bonding with the Testor’s liquid in the Syd Mead bottle and tip.
Yeah…
As a kid I never built a car without a glue-smeared windshield.
I never really got glue on the windows, but I don’t think that any of them have a straight decal in evidence!
Amen to that ! When I was a kid building aircraft models I think I used a whole tube just on the wings………lol
That’s how it was when I was trying to put together the engine of a sporty Oldsmobile–nothing wanted to stick together. Turned out that it was missing a part, and I wound up putting enough glue in there to have as much volume as the missing bit!
