Despite Gorilla Glue’s assertion that it is an all-weather adhesive suitable for outdoor use, I just had a bridge that was assembled with Gorilla Glue fall apart after three days of intermittent rain. I had even clamped the parts with c-clamps for 48 hours when this bridge was assembled.
What brand of glue is truly weatherproof? I have some Titebond II Premium Wood Glue that claims to be weatherproof, and some Elmer’s Probond Interior/Exterior Wood Glue that also claims to be weatherproof.
Do any of you have experience with either of these glues and can advise me on which is best?
I got a bottle of Elmers version of Gorilla Glue and it hardened in the bottle(in Virginia humidity) within a month and I had not even used it -hearing your story-maybe it did me a favor. I have had good luck with the CA glues-inside and out but they are expensive-I was hoping the “gorilla glues” would be more economical on large projects. Sorry no experience with the two brands you mentioned but I am about to put Loctite “Power Grab” to the test outdoor-will advise
Hey, Guy’s!! I also bought a bottle of that Gorilla Glue stuff, and it was’nt worth a flip even on my indoor O scale layout!! I plan on building my own bridges and buildings for the garden layout once I get rolling, so this is what i purchased: A small air tank for around $80.00 and a nail gun for around $50.00. If that won’t hold it together, I don’t need it!!![;)]
I am assuming that you are building in wood. I use Titebond II and Titebond III and have had no problems. I do seal all the wood models and make doubly sure the all joints are well sealed against water penetration. Titebond is also easier to use and doesn’t have the spreading problem of Gorilla Glue.
What type of wood are you using? Some wood such as balsa will absorb water quickly and you may be getting failure from warpage.
I have used Titebond II for quite some time. My oldest wooden building is in it’s fifth year outside with no problems although I do bring the buildings in from the snow for the winter.
Use “industrial strength 6ooo” It is available at hobby shops.It is simply unbelievable.I once used it to hold an emblem on a hubcap.It is still holding 2 yrs later.
I use Tite Bond II for outside, but I also use some sort of mechanical connection on every joint. For my bridges, I use brass escutcheon pins. I seal everything after it’s assembled.
Perhaps your bridge did not have enough moisture when it was assembled?
Thanks for the heads up on the Gorilla Glue. I’ve been building stuff with it now for several months and so far it’s held up fine. So that just tells me that I need to be watchful and catch any problems before they become big one’s.
I live in Northern Ohio and we have had a bunch of rain so far this year.
Question. After gluing, did you use any type of sealer on it? I’ve been using a UV resistant Polyurethane. Maybe that’s the right combination??
Been using Titebond II for several years on bridges, buildings and to hold the ballast together.
Some have been outside for 6 years and have had no problem with the glue holding up even with all the Florida rains and humidity.
mgilger – yes, everything was coated with Varathane Diamond Spar Urethane for Outdoor Use. It doesn’t say anything about UV resistance on the can, but it is supposed to be waterproof and made to go on outdoor furniture, etc…
I’ve reassembled the bridge with Titebond II, which several people recommended, and have coated the joints with latex caulking to keep moisture out after the glue set.
Next time, if there is a next time, I’ll use deck screws and glue.
If you are working with wood you should use screws, and glue. If you use screws when you put something together, of course it has to be big enough to use screws, it won’t come apart.
Hi
Screw and glue is good advice but as mentioned wood screws don’t go that small or do they?? what do the dolls house people use?? might be an answer there??.
For bridges the real ones are bolted and spiked often with steel gussets
12BA X 1" bolts and nuts, are avalable from model engineering supply houses 14 BA might be too small, 12BA would be suitable the gussets could be made from brass.
But you would still need an exterior grade glue and paint or perhaps a very expencive boat varnish which will definatly be water proof lets face it boats sit in water
regards John
You can probably find small SS sheet metal screws. Normally the difference between wood screws and sheet metal screws is that the shank is threaded only part way (wood screws) or all the way up (sheet metal).
Don’t get the self-tapping ones, they are blunt on the end and/or have a cutting edge that hogs out the hole too much in wood.
Oh no, don’t frighten me like that. Just last week I used Gorilla Glue to stregthen my wooden mailbox post (along with some screws) after a snowplow took a swipe at it last winter. (I know, I know, that was MONTHS ago, but I’ve had plenty of other projects ahead of this one). I guess I’ll have to wait and see how she holds toghether.
As an alternative, could you use any type of two part epoxy? Whenever I need something to stay together for all eternity (whether in my woodworking, home improvement, or model railroader ventures) , I pull out the epoxy. Have you ever tried that?
Has anyone gone to a Ships Stores (boat shop) to find out what they use? If anyone would know what works in wet conditions I think they would.
Also, have you noticed that if you don’t clamp (or screw) your parts together with Gorilla Glue it actually expands? I found this out the hard way. I have been told that is one of its positive aspects because it sort of forces its self into all the little cracks and crevices in wood grain for a better hold.
Last time I used it was on the long side of four boards eight edges total that are mitered, wrapping a treated post with Cedar. That was over two years ago they are still holding. And anyone who has miters together out side will tell you how quick they’ll open if not secured correctly!
