I have three of Intermountain’s FP9A’s and all three have the upper grill work warped and detached from the shell.
The grill looks like it is too long for the opening which makes it impossible to lie flat.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how they resolved it.
Thanks
CN1762
Yes, 3 of my IM F7’shave this problem. the solution is to glue the grilles back on. it isn’t as noticeable on mine so they’ll remain as they are for now.
CN1762:
I think that everyone who owns InterMountain F series engines with the glued on grills has suffered the same problem. InterMountain has solved the problem on newer production by putting tabs on the grills that go through the body to hold them in place, but that bit of information doesn’t do you one bit of good since you are stuck with the glued on grills.
The problem with the grills coming loose is related to temperature change, or so I have read. The metal grills expand and contract at different rates than the plastic body so the glue joints are constantly under stress. If you use a glue that dries hard over time they will likely break loose again.
One suggested solution is to use a flexible glue like Walthers Goo http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/904-299.
Keeping the glue from messing up the grill is a challenge. I use a sewing needle with the eye pushed into a wood handle. It allows you to pick up small amounts of glue and control where it goes reasonably well. I have not used Walthers Goo but I have applied similar glues that remain flexible with the needle with success, so far at least.
Ideally InterMountain can be persuaded to market the new grills with tabs so the older style grills can be swapped out. I will send them a note and let you know what they say. They are pretty good at answering their mail but give it a few days.
Dave
Thanks for the suggestions for the glue.
I would also be interested in hearing what Intermountain has to say about their grills with tabs.
Please let me know.
Thanks
CN1762
As I understood it, the problem is that the grills were secured with ca, and temperature changes or even picking up the locos with one’s fingers on the grill area was enough to break the bond. If you can remove the grill completely from the loco, use a suitable X-Acto blade to scrape away any ca residue from both the back of the grills and from the area where they were attached. Next, use a suitably-sized brush to apply contact cement very sparingly to the top and bottom edges of the grill - it need not be continuous but the contact cement must also be applied, in a similar manner, to the corresponding areas on the body shell - contact cement must come in contact with itself on both surfaces for a bond to be made. I prefer LePages or Weldbond Gelled contact cement, as it resists stringing, making it easier to do a neat job. Unfortunately, it’s available only in quart or gallon cans, although it’s a very useful cement for many household tasks.
Regardless of which contact cement you choose, keep the applicator brush clean. There’s no need to rush the application process, and cleaning the brush often in lacquer thinner will help to ensure a neat job. When you have the cement applied to both mating surfaces, allow it to dry according to the instructions on the container - usually 20 minutes, and most can be left for an hour or two on non-porous surfaces.
Contact cement works, surprisingly to some, on contact. If you’re worried about getting the grill on crooked, place a piece of waxed paper over the diesel’s side, the lay the grill atop it. Looking through the paper, line-up one end of the grill at the proper place, then align the top or bottom edge of the entire grill with its proper place. Gently withdraw the waxed paper to one side for a quarter inch-or-so, checking that all alignment is still correct, then press the end of the grill into place on the loco. Next, slowly withdraw the waxed paper along the leng
Wayne:
It is unfortunate that your friend suffered from the variabilities of production assembly methods. I would encourage him to contact Rapido. I’m sure Jason would be upset to know that his solution to attaching the grills properly was being messed up.
I have five InterMountain F series locos. Three have the glued on grills with the ensuing problems. Two have the grills with the tabs. So far the grills with the tabs have stayed very straight, and they have been handled quite a bit.
I have sent a note to InterMountain re the possibility of making the tabbed grills available as parts. Having re-glued the CA’d grills more than once, and having deposited excess glue on the grills more than once, I have to believe that the tab option is a much better solution. Of course they will have to be installed carefully.
Dave