I recently got this very nice model and thought I’d try doing a video review instead of my usual typed reviews.[:D]
Thanks, Darth.
What are your plans for the loco? Any plans for mechanical improvements or detail changes? How about paint livery? Just curious.
Tom
Darth,Just for a fun look back a lot of us replaced the rubber drive shaft with fuel line tubing for R/C planes.It seem to help slow switching speed.
Hallmark,Alco Models and Trains Inc used a KMT drive.
Back in the 60s I had several brass diesels from the above named companies at MSRP of $34.95 they was affordable to the majority of the modelers that’s why brass was popular in the 60s.
Of all those brass diesel I owned my three Alco Models RS-1s was my pride and joys.
ACY, I might replace the old drive tubing with some more flexible stuff. What’s in there now is in good shape, but it is a little stiffer than I’d like. As for paint, I’m going to see what decals I have available and paint it for that if it matches a prototype.
BRAKIE, I actually have KMT diesels from all three of those importers now. The only one that needed a complete drive replacement was a Trains Inc U25B. The trucks were cast so thin that one of them broke apart, and I could never get the other one working smoothly. The others have been pretty solid.
Your so lucky to own something like that. [Y]
Did you spend a decade saving for that locomotive? Brass is extremely expensive!!! [:)]
Some, but not all. A couple of years ago I picked up a nice Alco Models S6, also made by KMT, for well under $100.
Not always, ATSF. While some models do demand a pretty stiff price, you can actually find some very good running brass for what you might pay for in plastic and even better.
My first endeavor into brass locomotivs was only recently when I found and purchased a very handsome Alco Models B-11 0-6-0 switcher off eBay from a reputable brass dealer. I’ve only tested it on DC so far but the nearlyl 40-year old switcher and its can motor runs quite smoothly and should improve along those lines whenever I can dismantle it to clean and regrease it.
So, just like plastic - there are bargains to be had with brass if you’re patient and discerning. While I didn’t find one for quite as good a price as CentralGulf above, the price that I did pay was still good and quite worth it for it’s condition, given that this model will probably never make it to plastic:
Tom
This might help you make your choices. The complete H10-44 roster (some units may have gone to other owners second-hand):
MILW 1802-1819 Shipped 8/1944 - 2/1949
CNW 1036 Shipped 11/1944
CNW 1048-1065 Shipped 19/1946 - 1/1950
CNW 1070 Shipped 1/1950
CNW 1082 Shipped 6/1948
ATSF 500 Shipped 4/1945
UP DS1300-DS1304 Shipped 5/1945 - 2/1947
Minnesota Western 51 Shipped 9/1946
Monon 18 Shipped 11/1946
Wabash 380-383 Shipped 11/1946 - 3/1949
P&LE (NYC subsidiary) &n
ACY, thanks for that list!
ATSFGuy, I paid $110 for it. Brass from manufacturers like OMI may require a mortgage, but KMT, Akane, older Tenshodo, and a few others can be found in good shape for about the same as MSRP for new plastic models. At the same train show, I also got a Hallmark/KMT SD7 (9?) for $20! All it needed was a new axle gear (I have a few on hand), a new screw for the front truck, and a brief tune-up to work like new!
I edited/corrected the list a couple minutes ago. Hope I didn’t miss any!
Tom
Is it DC or DCC equipped?
It’s DC. As far as I know, KMT stopped making American trains before DCC was invented (they still make plenty of Japanese models), but they are easy to wire for DCC since both trucks are typically isolated from the frame.