I’m currently building a small HO layout and have come to the conclusion that It’s time to take it down and start over. The track work is flawless (no derailments, not one in hundreds of operating hours) but by operating it I’m finding flaws in the design and it’s proving too small for what I want to model. So I’m designing a bigger (about twice the size) and better layout. My original layout is an island style and i’m planning a around the room style. My question is track. I’m thinking of hand laying the track (including the turnouts). I’ve had great results with the plastic stuff and have no experience with hand laid track. So I’m asking for some advice. What are the advantages & disadvantages of hand laid. Or am I just wasting my time and should stick with the plastic premade sticks?
With hand laid tracks you get authenticity, turnouts of any size, great look, curves the way you want them, and a lot of work and a lot of time. That’s why the layout (15’x21’) I’m building is done with flextrack and purchased turnouts. By weathering the track after installation, it will look just as good to me (as everyone likes to say - it’s my railroad).
Good luck whichever way you go.
Ron K.
MackinacMac,
I’ve seen both handlaid and storebought track and both installed well do a fine job. If you can learn from someone who knows how to do it properly, handlaid track gives you versatility that you won’t have with storebought. But, storebought track is readily available and can have you up and running a lot sooner. Where do you want to invest your time???
I’ve seen one layout where the handlaid track and turnouts are beyond belief, but I don’t know how long it took. The guy who laid the turnouts said it takes him about an hour for each turnout, but he’s installed hundreds. I’ve built a few just to learn how. My layout will use storebought.
Mark C.
I have mostly used flex track, but I have also dabbled in handlaying track. The primary advantages to handlaying are the satisfaction - after all this the way the railroads do it and turnouts can have a better flow. The primay disadvantages are the time involved and the appearance. You have to use tie plates and thin head spikes and I still don’t think it comes out as well as the better flex track. (Some don’t spike every tie but every 4th or 5th - this may be okay operationally, but it really doesn’t look right.) Flex track has come along way since my first pieces which had fiberboard ties and staples in every other tie to hold the tie strip to the rail. Turnouts are where flex track falls down, the rivet hinges and L shaped metal points aren’t quite realistic either.
My current layout is using flex track for the mainline and I plan to use some handlaid with smaller rails for spurs.
I would suggest you handlay some track just for the experience, if you really enjoy it then you can do the whole railroad that way.
Enjoy
Paul
I have built a lot of my own turnouts, mostly because I have a fairly small layout room and many of them are built on curves, all to custom sizes. Building your own turnouts is also cheaper. I use flextrack for other areas, both because it’s easier and faster to install and because there isn’t as much of a cost advantage.
I’ve worked in code 83, 70, and 55, all with good results. Having a couple of three point gages and an NMRA gage are invaluable when handlaying track. A spare truck with a pair of properly spaced wheelsets (I use Kadees) is good for testing. I can do a turnout in a few hours now that I’ve built a few, and they work as reliably as commercial ones. I usually build them in place on the layout.
Appearance is subjective, but I try to keep in mind that small details tend to disappear once the track is painted, ballasted, and weathered, and running through an area with finished scenery. I spike every other tie with no plates and I like the look.
if you want to speed up the process install the handlayed track in the areas that are most visible and put in flex track in places where you can’t see the detailing so well…i do some handlayed track but only on my bridges…if you weather the flex track well, then you cant tell the difference between it and the hand layed track that much…Chuck
Hello Mac,
I’ve handlaid all the track on my layout – so far – and I agree with all the advantages others have cited for it. You can also build turnouts with whatever you think is the ideal turnout wiring, and don’t have to accept the way the manufacturers do it. For a small layout the time difference may not be that significant.
For me the most important reason is that I enjoy doing it, and I wouldn’t advise anyone to handlayif they don’t like doing it. I don’t mind the time I spend laying track because I find it’s fun and satisfying.
So long,
Andy
Thanks for all the input. I’m starting to think that using the domino style of planning my layout will allow me to try handlaying a module or two to see if it suits me. And I really like Tony Koester’s idea of LDE (I’ve already started documenting LDEs I’d like to incorporate into my design). So my next question is where can I find information on how to handlay track. I’ll use the index here to look up articles, but is there a good book or video on the subject that someone can recommend?
Also, has anyone tried the fast track system for turnouts? Does it make it easier vs. the cost of the system? Or is building your own turnout just as easy?
Hey Mac:
Give me your secret in terms of your flawless layout. I’m ready to lay Code 83 and fear that I’ll screw something up and have derailments and have to pull pieces up in order to fix…I’m trying to avoid whenever possible. My layouts some 20 yrs ago always tended to have derailments one way or another…Recently I’ve had derailments with my temporary E-Z track which I had around the Christmas tree this year, it ran fine for hours on end, then one my cars started derailing…and the track is clean and contacts good, no bumps. So I’ve got many miles now to lay on my large layout and I’m terrified!! Steve [^]
Hey Mac,
Like you I am thinking of handlaying my track and switchs. Kalmbach Books put out a wonderful book on trackwork named Trackwork and Lineside Detail for your Model Railroad. It is a number of articles from MR compiled by Kent Johnson. There are three chapters in there that should at least get you going in the right direction. They cover handlaying track and how to handlay switchs. Also included in the bood is a wealth of other tracking ideas.
Good luck.
Russ
Try thecentral valley turnout kits to get your feet wet. These have self-guaging tie strips that align the rails easily. After andassembly or two you will be able to tell if you like it well enough to make the whole turnout by hand. I handlay most of my turnouts and specialty trackage though I still use flex-trak for all other areas. I like the vesatility you get with handlaying turnouts to fit each situation. You can best utilize the space you have. I don’t handlay everything because of the time involved and also I don’t think handlaid looks any better. You may want to take this mis and match method also.
HAZMAT 9
I can’t really say I have any tricks to laying my track. Just alot of common sense and following recommendations. Not to mention I think the track now-adays is alot more accurate in guage then in the past. Here’s my procedure: I used Atlas code 83 both sectional & flex track. I first soldered all the rail joints then filed them smooth. I did this on my work bench and worked in about three foot sections at a time. After that I checked the whole thing with my MNRA track guage. I only had a very few spots, usually on the turnouts that needed adjusting. I then painted the track. after it was dry I would dry fit it on the layout. I would run an engine and a car or two to make sure it was smooth. Then I glued to track to the roadbed (I used woodland scenics foam roadbed). I did not nail it because I didn’t want to overdrive the nails which could bend the track inward. as the glue dried I took a small target level and slid it on the rail to make sure it was level. These levels work great for this because you can instantly tell if the track is not level in any direction. After the glue dried again I checked it with a track guage and then soldered the ends of the section to the remainder of the layout filing any stray solder. Don’t forget to check the wheel guage of every axle on every car and engine before it goes on the layout and make sure your cars are properly weighted and couplers are checked for height, etc. I guess my secret is check everything over & over again. It may seem like a lot of steps but the extra time spent doing this was well worth it. I figured I’d rather spend the extra here than figuring out frustrating derailments while I’m operating. And yes I can honestly say that I have not had one derailment in hundreds of operating hours. My usual train length is between eight & fourteen cars. And (not to brag) I even have a point on the mainline that uses 15" radius curves and i haven’t had any derailments there either.
OF COURSE NOW I PROBABLY JI
If you really want to try hand laying, look for the book titled “Trackwork Handbook for Model Railroads” by Paul Mallery. Of course it’s out of print, but you might be able to find one somewhere. Also, a Kadee track spiker is handy. Sorry, these arn’t being made anymore either, but the spikes are still available, I think. In my opinion, it’s not worth the effort!
Bob Hayes
That book is still available through Walthers. They say it is being phased out though so get it while you can.
Jesse
Mackinamac, If you choose to hand lay the track, you will certainly gain any MR’s respect. As has been mentioned before, the savings are not that great and flex track when ballasted and weathered looks very good. As for pre-made track, it forces limitations on your design options. True Scale (milled wood) products looked fantastic but limited to only their choice of radii (for me), it was useless. I would stick to flex and Shinohara turnouts, etc. but then, I’m no hero either. Best of luck.
Let me be another voice singing the praises of the Central Valley track system. This track is halfway in between ready-made and handlaid and the realism and detail is astonishing.
Check out the website:
Regarding the Kadee spiker…
Several years ago, I wanted to get one to try out hand-laying track. I e-mailed Kadee, and recieved an answer…
The Kadee spiker has been discontinued (liability concerns, from what I’ve been able to glean from elsewhere on the net). BUT…
You can get a parts list and exploded drawing of the spiker. And you can still order replacement parts…
Translation - they’ll sell you a bunch of independent harmless parts, if you put them together into and eye-seeking missle machine, well, that’s YOUR responsibility 
If you are good mechanically, you’ll be able to put one together, I think. I never got that far.
I don’t know if they still sell all the parts for them.
I have tried laying hand-laid switches several times, but can never seem to complete one… ah, well…
Good luck with your decision.
I’ll jump on the Central Valley bandwagon. I worked on a friend’s layout 12 years or more ago that was done entirely with CV tie material including the turnout ties which had to be purchased direct. We had to make our own frogs and points - now the kits make it even easier resulting IMO in the best looking track ever available.
Bob Hayes,
I bought that book and I must say it is amazing. Get it while you can. The most amazing thing was that it was the first thing I ever ordered that Walthers didn’t back-order.
Jesse