Hard shell scenery

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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Help…

I am constructing the scenery on my HO layout, and have been using Dave Frary’s ‘How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery’ as a guide.

The book describes a web of cardboard strips forming the sub-terrain, covered by plaster soaked paper towels. This I’ve tried - and failed at. The plaster soaked paper towels were so heavy they caused my subterain to soak and collapse.

My charming wife observed my frustration and advised me to use paper mache - a medium she is very familiar with. So moving to a different section of the layout we applied strips of newspaper coated with wallpaper past over the sub-terrain web. We applied three layers of newspaper in this manner. That was yesterday - today it looks great.

Then today we tried plaster coated newspaper strips. But we soon noted that the plaster set up very quickly and soon was globbing instead of coating.

So my question to the masters of the hobby is:
Why should I use plaster and paper towel, or plaster and paper, and not use wallpaper paste and paper? Is there some negative side effect or future condition I’m unaware of?

Please know that scenery is not my strength in model railroading. In fact this is the first time I’ve attempted scenery. I usually stick to bench and track work, models and electronics.

Thank you in advance for your comments on this.
Dwayne A.

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"Then today we tried plaster coated newspaper strips. But we soon noted that the plaster set up very quickly and soon was globbing instead of coating. "

as it thickens up take a paint brush and apply the thicker plaster to the spots that seem to be runny. Or try mixing the plaster a little thinner. I personnaly use extruded foam “blue or pink” and shape it then apply plaster coated newspaper. Works well and is strong! And is fairly light. If u still prefer cardboard strips then add a few 1x1 or 1x2 strips under certain parts. It sounds as though the plaster was just a little too runny.
hope it helps

Devin www.trainswinnipeg.com

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So my question to the masters of the hobby is:
Why should I use plaster and paper towel, or plaster and paper, and not use wallpaper paste and paper? Is there some negative side effect or future condition I’m unaware of?
<<

Yep. Bugs LOVE wallpaper paste and paper as much as they love the flour and water mix. :slight_smile:

When using Hydocal or Ultracal 30, you need a heavy wadding of newspapers under the hills to support the cardbord strips. They can be removed afterward, but I really don’t understand your problem. Anyone who can do paper mache’ can do hard shell easily. Don’t use plaster, use hydrocal. It is a very lightweight form of concrete. Light, tough and durable.

If you insist on using plaster, then use screen wire under your landform. Don’t use the plastic screen as it won’t hold up under the weight.

I have used the hard shell technique since 1980 with no problems except where to get hydrocal. Good luck. :slight_smile:

Roger

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Hi Dwayne,
I use polystyrene foam insulation, and that is all I use for my scenary base, (for that matter, it’s all I use for my entire layout for the moment), polystyrene foam insulation, whether you use the blue, green or pink stuff, all works the same, it can be shaped, cut, with a hot wire foam cutter, or a knife, it can be shaped using just about any kind of rasp or sanding block, ( be sure to wear a resperator), it can be painted with any latex or water based color, you can apply your ground cover directly to it after painting, and you can use polyurathane foam to make any needed rock castings, all that is available at any home improvement store…:o)

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Hello Dwayne:

My English isn’t very good, so I’ll do my best ;).

I’m an Architect and as a student I tried and experimented with a lot of different techniques for building scenery (specialy mountains and cliffs). Finaly after many trial and error experiments I came with my very own technique (I don’t know if it already exists, but I figure it out myself, because its cheap, longlasting and fast and relaible.

First of all, don’t use cardboard as substructre use playwood (I use 10mm). Cardboard is sensitive to wet matirials, is not strong, and with time it WILL damage.

Once the substructure is made, I give form to my mountains and cliffs with a 5x5mm wire mesh. These will give you the oportinity to actualy sculp the form you want by bending with your hands the mesh since it is quite rigid. I nail the me***o the substructure.

After that I cover the mesh with wet plaster cloth (like the one used for casting broken arms), I beleive woodland scenics produce a hobby version.

Once this structure is dry it will be as hard and stable as your house walls. For texture and “rock-like realism” I applay patching plaster over the strcuture and with my hands and some custom made tools to give the appearence of exposed rock.

Then I paint the whole thing with an airbrush using colors depending of what rock I’m modeling. With a 1/8 drill bit you can make little holes to plant your trees, or any larger bit for any other thing.

A “light” version will be, replacing the plaster cloth with papier mache (newspaper strips soaked in a 50/50 white glue/water solution) but its dilatation factor is to large and the patching plaster will crack with any change of temperature and humidity. It isn’ very strong and little bugs like its taste.

For this technique you need a very strong benchwork or trusswork, since it is quite heavy, but this is the best way for building mountains and cliffs (specialy tunnels and natural overpa

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Linda D. Lippincott

Our modular model railroad group, The Donner Pass Gandy Dancers, use Geodesic Scenery system developed by Joel Bragdon of Bragdon Enterprises. The scenery is easy to aply, looks good, is light weight, and holds up to use. Making and applying the polurethane “rocks” is simple with a little practice. Bragdon Enterprises is located in Georgetown, CA. He has a web site and sells at many of the NMRA shows and through Billy Carr “The Tool Man”.

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Dwayne,

Buy a few rolls of woodland scenes plaster tape,still use your cardbroad strip base,put one layer of the tape over your cardbroad just make sure you overlap the next piece of tape about 1 inch over the last one. When the first layer of tape sets up it will be very hard.Now with any old paint brush mix up some plain old plaster paris, mixed to a texture of sour cream paint this over the tape. Remember the more you try the better you get. If you don’t like it,take a saw cut it out start over.Enjoy yourself, and you may just end up on the cover of Model Railroader one day,I’ll be looking for your cover.
SW,Dave