Hard Time Finding Foam Board for my Annual Holiday Train Layout

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I do a fairly elaborate winter train layout under the tree this time every year.

I have historically used Elmer’s foam board, placed directly on the floor under the tree. I have used two 60" x 40" boards on either side of the tree, with a fill section that goes under the tree. The boards that I have used are 3/8" thick, which is thick enough to hold tacks without piercing the floor beneath.

Lots of arts/crafts supplies places have closed around here. At the few that remain, I can find 3/16" board easily, or I can find small slabs of 3/8". Online, I seem to have only bulk options.

Any ideas, or is there another similar option I could use that I have not considered?

How are foam insulation boards? Are they easy to cut, or do they make a mess?

2

They score with a utility knife and snap easily, with little mess. I’m also told they can be cut with an electric kitchen knife. You can also find knife like jig saw blades that will also cut with minimum mess.

3

Extruded foam is easy to cut, score and break or use a serrated knife. My fav is a pistol grip hack saw blade. Messy is relative, I think some people just need something to talk/complain about.

4

I guess what I meant is can you make a clean, straight cut, or are the edges very uneven? Some foam is resistant to a straight cut.

And is the board you reference the same as the insulation board that I asked about?

5

You also could check out building supply stores or local lumber yards, and see if they have the foam insulation board that goes under vinyl and aluminum siding.

Not sure of the thickness, but I think it’s 1/4" thick.

I cut mine like what Brent suggest. I’ve scored and snapped, and used a saw, and a serated kitchen knife. Yes, there might be a little mess, as with cutting anything.

Mike.

6

Pink or blue is the stuff for insulation, don’t use styrofoam as those little beads just fall off like dandruff everywhere you go.[(-D]

7

Thanks all. So it looks like this will fit the bill. 4’ x 8’, available 1/2" or 1" thick.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-3-Square-Edge-Rigid-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-36L/100320356

8

It probably will cost you some time to tidy up, but, not if you are deliberate, slow, semi-skilled with hand implements, and keep sharp blades handy. As the others have suggested, a deep score, with a sharp utility knife, place the sliced part at the lip of a sturdy table, and then give a sharp kick downward with the palm of your hand…it will separate nicely and cleanly. Saw, use a dull blade, and you’ll have bits of foam everywhere, including on your hand, the tools, your clothing…

If you score against a 4-8’ framing level’s clean side, again on a sturdy surface, you’ll get a clean edge. The extruded foam can be sanded.

It’s strongly recommended to have at least doorksin or hardboard as a nether surface to protect the nether side of the foam. The foam isn’t especially durable, and will crease and score even with slivers of wood, bits of rock and grit on the floor, etc. Use PL300 or similar foam-friendly construction adhesive, in a tube, to secure the slab of MDF, doorskin, Luan, tempered hardboard to the one surface. While you’re at it, do the sides as well. [;)]

Dow/Corning, and at least one other company, makes ‘extruded insulation foam board’, or construction foam board. Several thicknesses. It can get expensive, so be sober about calculating you

9

[quote user=“selector”]

Shock Control

I guess what I meant is can you make a clean, straight cut, or are the edges very uneven? Some foam is resistant to a straight cut.

And is the board you reference the same as the insulation board that I asked about?

It probably will cost you some time to tidy up, but, not if you are deliberate, slow, semi-skilled with hand implements, and keep sharp blades handy. As the others have suggested, a deep score, with a sharp utility knife, place the sliced part at the lip of a sturdy table, and then give a sharp kick downward with the palm of your hand…it will separate nicely and cleanly. Saw, use a dull blade, and you’ll have bits of foam everywhere, including on your hand, the tools, your clothing…

If you score against a 4-8’ framing level’s clean side, again on a sturdy surface, you’ll get a clean edge. The extruded foam can be sanded.

It’s strongly recommended to have at least doorksin or hardboard as a nether surface to protect the nether side of the foam. The foam isn’t especially durable, and will crease and score even with slivers of wood, bits of rock and grit on the floor, etc. Use PL300 or similar foam-friendly construction adhesive, in a tube, to secure the slab of MDF, doorskin, Luan, tempered hardboard to the one surface. While you’re at it, do the sides as well. Wink

Dow/Corning, and at least one other company, makes ‘extruded insulation foam board’, or construction foam board. Several thicknesses. It

10

I just cut mine in the parking lot. Take a knife score it and break it. If you want an accurate chop take a chalk line with you.

Would a 2’ x 4’ piece work for you? It usually comes in that size as well.

11

Ideally, I would like two 40" by 60" pieces, but I can fit two 8’ lengths into the car if they are 40" wide. I will be able to expand a little beyond my previous years’ dimensions.

12

I did the same thing. Use a sharp blade.

13

The implication is that you do not keep your maerials from year to year. If so, and 3/16 is readily available in the dementions you want, why not laminate two peices together to get your 3/8 thickness?

II think you willl find the foam board is much cheaper than the exturded foam.

Just my thought.

Good luck,

Richard

14

Bring along a Stanley utility knife with a new blade. You can score and snap a fairly clean line. Score both sides and use a low-angle with the knife otherwise the foam tends to “bunch up” under the knife.

[I see John gave the same advice. Good call!]

Good Luck, Ed

15

Just don’t do this on a windy day One former forum member who unfortunately passed away cut some pieces in the parking lot. The wind caught a couple of them and they were never found.

16

I keep the boards for many years, but beacuse the layout isn’t permanent, trees and telegraph poles end up in different places every year. After about 6 or 7 years, the boards become a swiss cheese, so I eventually get new boards.

I had considered stacking two 3/16" sections, but my laminating skills are not any better than my cutting skills, and i don’t think the cost will be radically different. But thanks for the idea, I will think about this.

17

The best knife I’ve used to cut foam is Woodland Scenics foam knife. Long thin and very sharp blade allows the shallow angle cut that works best.

The best straight edge to use is a metal yard or meter stick. For cross cuts on the 24" dimension. For the 8’ length I have a 1"x 4" x 8’ long with one perfectly straight edge I found years ago while lumber picking at my local yard which I marked “do not cut, ever”…

Watch your fingers while holding down any straight edge. I use mini clamps myself.

18

They sell a wide segmented utilliy knife at the $ store, works well on even beaded foam.

19

I ended up doing precisely this. It seemed like the path of least reistance. Thank you.