I look for unanswered posts, often these are moderated posts from newbies. There are 8 today,
Lets help these guys out.
Now might be the time to mention I was ‘first answer’ on something like five of these and this might lead some folks to accuse me of being a know-it-all showoff answering everything. What I’m trying to do is ‘prime the pump’ for other posters (sometimes for corrections by other posters, a hazard of the practice [:$]) and to provide at least something for the person to go on. (Now, that said, I try hard to avoid spreading ‘disinformation’, at least knowingly, so if you see something ‘off’ it’s no skin off my nose to learn correction.)
So don’t be afraid to jump in a new post, even if (as a couple of us do) it’s to explain moderation and the PM system and give them hope their answers will be forthcoming.
Not at all.
When I see unanswered posts, even in the DCC section, I will jump in with something.
When a newbie post gets approved by the moderators it does not go to the top. It shows up where it was in chronological order. Sometimes this places it “below the fold” on the page.
I jump in, bump it to the top, and hopefully someone with the answer will see it.
-Kevin
Henry, I can assure you, almost no thread goes unaswered. I challenge you to go back and find 10 unanswered threads that have been posted over a month ago.
Rich
[(-D][(-D][(-D]
Just because you reply, don’t assume you helped.
I see many newbe/wantabes ask for the correct time. The replys instruct him how to build a watch,where to buy the parts,what tools will be needed, along with the current stock market price quote on raw materials.
I have often wonder how many would be RMers just walk away thinking this hobby is just too complex.
Then there are IMO many posts that don’t warrent a reply. Just throwing stuff at a wall to see what might stick
[Y] 100%
And then you have the replies that are just completely made up horse droppings that someone tries to correct, then you get a 20 reply non-productive-newbie-alienating expression of discourse.
Newbie rule 1: Be helpful without thumping your chest about how knowledgeable you can sound. All the regulars here already know who knows what they are talking about.
Newbie rule 2: Don’t give an answer unless you know the answer. Always welcome the newcomer and encourage someone else to give the correct answer.
-Kevin
Amen, well said, and bravo!
I didn’t have 10 but I had 8.
The New Digitrax Cab thread sat unanswered for 2 weeks until I bumped it. Turns out enough people had an opinion to help the OP.
Usually the threads that are never answered are the ones that are either just a statement, ones that ask about building a specific layout or asking about information or parts that no one has, like a MTH schematic.
Well, truth be told, there’s seldom just a yes/no answer. Even thiungs that can be verified by math and various physical rules, like “is a 1K resistor right for an LED headlight on DCC”
Simple answer - yes, because you will never blow one up using a 1K. BUT - with modern LEDs, and often with the SMD types (epecially if the OP doesn’t menton what type of LEDs are being used - need more information) are WAY too bight even though the 1K is ‘safe’ from an electronic point of view.
Or, “Does the XYZ 2-6-6-4 run through 28” radius curves". XYZ may state on their web side that 24" is the minimum it can handle, which infers 28" should be fine. But what’s the wuality of the 28" curve? Are there kings? Elevation changes? There are many reasons why a loco that is claimed to work on one radius, and can be shown by the manbufacturer to indeed work on said radius, derails on a wider radius which, logically, it should handle with ease since it’s bigger than the demonstrated minimum.
Information overload? Well, this isn;t exactly a simple hobby. While not overwhelming a newbie is a good thing, not fully reasoning out WHY an answer isn’t quite so simple is important too. Cheap train sets in the 70’s probably drive as many out of the hobby as it attracted to it, with track coming apart and contant derailments. It’s important to point out tried and true methods for doing better than slapping down some sectional track and hoping it works. A train that runs, and does so reliable, is more likely to retain interest than one that can’t even make one lap around the layout without jumping the track. That doesn’t mean telling the newbie to trash the Life Like trainset junk and buy a $1000 brass loco (given that even the best brass can be finnicky to get running just right - that would probably be an even quicker turnoff - spend all that money and it STILL won’t stay on the track), but there are plenty of hints and
Yeah the OP asked if anyone had one. My stuff is still packed away, I haven’t reached the point of connecting my existing stuff, let alone buying anything new. Plus I’m not even sure I am sticking with Digitrax at this point (I know, shocker!). My main reason was Loconet, but since I am building my own CMRI-ish control system, I don’t need Loconet. Consisting and utility throttles with displays and encoders are now more important - except Digitrax had to go and change it up with the UT6. What I have now isn’t even a consideration, I actually have very little - even my last layout still ran with the original Zephyr as command station. 12 locos was not a limit. Filling up my basement with 2 decks though - I need a bigger system.
–Randy
Aww, heck, I am feeling generous today, Henry. So, 8 is enough to satisfy me. [Y]
Rich
I must confess, I usually look at the screen name (avatar) first, then the date that the OP joined the forum, then the number of posts before deciding whether to answer or not.
I am always reluctant to respond to newbie, particulary if it is his first post.
Why, you ask? Well, a number of reasons.
-
A lot of newbies never acknowledge replies and often vanish from the forum.
-
Often there is no question to be answered.
-
There may be a woeful lack of information needed to answer the question.
-
The initial post may be asking for someone else to do the research, draw up a track plan, or simply speculate about what is being asked.
Rich
[quote user=“rrinker”]
Well, truth be told, there’s seldom just a yes/no answer. Even thiungs that can be verified by math and various physical rules, like “is a 1K resistor right for an LED headlight on DCC”
Simple answer - yes, because you will never blow one up using a 1K. BUT - with modern LEDs, and often with the SMD types (epecially if the OP doesn’t menton what type of LEDs are being used - need more information) are WAY too bight even though the 1K is ‘safe’ from an electronic point of view.
Or, “Does the XYZ 2-6-6-4 run through 28” radius curves". XYZ may state on their web side that 24" is the minimum it can handle, which infers 28" should be fine. But what’s the wuality of the 28" curve? Are there kings? Elevation changes? There are many reasons why a loco that is claimed to work on one radius, and can be shown by the manbufacturer to indeed work on said radius, derails on a wider radius which, logically, it should handle with ease since it’s bigger than the demonstrated minimum.
Information overload? Well, this isn;t exactly a simple hobby. While not overwhelming a newbie is a good thing, not fully reasoning out WHY an answer isn’t quite so simple is important too. Cheap train sets in the 70’s probably drive as many out of the hobby as it attracted to it, with track coming apart and contant derailments. It’s important to point out tried and true methods for doing better than slapping down some sectional track and hoping it works. A train that runs, and does so reliable, is more likely to retain interest than one that can’t even make one lap around the layout without jumping the track. That doesn’t mean telling the newbie to trash the Life Like trainset junk and buy a $1000 brass loco (given that even the best brass can be finnicky to get running just right - that would probably be an even quicker turnoff - spend all that money and it STILL won’t stay on the t
No 1 why do you think that is ?
No 2 very true
No3 true; but should we not ask them
No4 VERY VERY true. I didn’t sign up to baby sit
richhotrain
I must confess, I usually look at the screen name (avatar) first, then the date that the OP joined the forum, then the number of posts before deciding whether to answer or not.
I am always reluctant to respond to newbie, particulary if it is his first post.
Why, you ask? Well, a number of reasons.
A lot of newbies never acknowledge replies and often vanish from the forum.
Often there is no question to be answered.
There may be a woeful lack of information needed to answer the question.
The initial post may be asking for someone else to do the research, draw up a track plan, or simply speculate about what is being asked.
Rich
No 1 why do you think that is ?
No 2 very true
No3 true; but should we not ask them
No4 VERY VERY true. I didn’t sign up to baby sit
As to No. 1, assuming that the replies are not belligerent or condescending, I think that at least some newbies get the answer to their question and never again return to the forum. I have seen that happen more than once.
As to No. 3, yes, we should ask them but somewhat often they don’t answer, at least not fully, and then, poof, Number 1 occurs - - they exit the forum. So, I often ignore newbies and leave it up to more patient members. Yeah, I know, shame on me.
Rich
Ok, so I “answered” one to get the ball rolling. It’s not a particularly creative answer, but it will bump it up the list. I think we should make an effort to help out. I think it’s implied in the word “community”…
I do want to mention that some questions are in fact so specialized that it’s just probably better not to provide an answer. But it would be nice of us to suggest where they can find the information. Or just plain say we don’t know but welcome them to the forum anyway…
Simon
See now, Simon, I would reply to your post because I recognize your screen name, you are not a newbie having joined in 2013, and you have a fair number of posts, so not your first. [:-^]
Rich
Sometimes, not answering a Q with detailed and confusing answer is better than giving a wrong response. I agree that many OPs post and disappear. Sad. Having an OP ask about a specific technique is akin to me asking engineers how to make a souffle from scratch.
Moderators: can we pls provide a sticky of online tools, webpages, books, etc. to read to help new folks? This ensures they stay in the hobby without feeling overwhelmed. Just an idea.
- A lot of newbies never acknowledge replies and often vanish from the forum.
When a new member posts his first entry to the forums… nothing happens. The post goes away awaiting moderator review and he does not get an email from Kalmbach Media explaining the delay. The vanishing after one post is to be expected with these circumstances.
- Often there is no question to be answered.
In this case, I simply say [#welcome] to the newbie.
- There may be a woeful lack of information needed to answer the question.
Then I say [#welcome] and ask for more information.
- The initial post may be asking for someone else to do the research, draw up a track plan, or simply speculate about what is being asked.
OK, In this case I do not reply.
-Keivn