Hi guys!
New to the forum. I am in need of some direction. I have several decades of Model Railroader. Somewhere in one (or many) there has to be a good tutorial on covering flex track with concrete. I have done several samples myself with using sculptamold and plaster of paris, but not happy with the results. Any suggestions on where to look in the back issues of MR would be greatly appreciated.
Pete
Flangeways too big?
What scale? We recently had this thread where I experimented with using paper with a concrete texture printed on it to simulate the concrete between the rails. The paper eliminates the oversized flangeways but doesn’t interfere with the flanges of the wheels. This would probably look best in N scale, but it might work in HO.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/212574/2330970.aspx#2330970
Steve S
Painted MDF for O works well here. I have seen painted styrene and durhams wood putty used. Also I think WSSells a pourable product.
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/roadsystem
Gidday Pete, [#welcome] to the forum.
Here’s links to some recent threads that might help…
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/206188/2255639.aspx#2255639
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/205754/2250790.aspx#2250790
The May 1994 issue of Model Railroader has an article by Bob Foltz entitled “Pour your own city streets.”
Part 3 of “Union Freight” by John Pryke in the November 2000 Model Railroader is on “paving for railroads in streets”, though he mainly uses styrene.
Cheers, the Bear.
Welcome!
Go to HOW TO above, then to Scenery. There is one section on making dirt crossings, but I think if you used a concrete color it might work for you. There is another video on making a road by one of the MR folks, but I can’t come up with it at the moment.
When I did mine I used lightweight spackling compound with styrene strips in the flangeways until the compound hardened. I didn’t wait quite long enough so looked a little rough. The one I did on a curve needed a little wider strip for a flangeway, so I had to do considerable scraping.
Good luck,
Richard
LION has used chipboard for this with acceptable success. Less success with corrugated (which is what I used in my last installation). You can place the chipboard over the track and press the rails with your finger leaving a mark. Cut inside (and outside) of the mark and you have the material for both the outside and in the gauge.
It all depends on how tight your aesthetic appeal meter is set.
ROAR
There is a thin foam sheet you can get from Hobby Lobby that comes in many colors. It is about 1//16" thick and comes in large sheets (about 12 x 18"). I use black for blacktop/asphalt roads and then weather it. It is just the right texture for pavement and if you use the gray color and weather it you should get a fairlly good representation of concrete. I press it down on the track at crossings and then cut along the lines from the rails with scissors; works great. Then just glue it down and blend into scenery. Just another solution you might try and it is very inexpensive (aoubt $1.00 per sheet.).
-Bob
I was thinking of the same thing for larger scales. Michael’s craft stores calls it Creatology Fun Foam. For HO and larger, you could go the full width of the track without interfering with the flanges, but you’ll probably want to use code 100 track in HO. The Fun Foam that I’ve got is a little too tall for code 83.
It also comes in white which could be painted. Concrete tends to be as much tan as it is gray.
Steve S
That is a fantastic job!!!
WOW! Thanks Bear! Those two posts are just what I was looking for. I will post some updates when I finish my samples
Pete
Hopefully this one will go out to the whole group to see. Bare with me, I am new to the forum. To everyone that gave suggestions, thank you! The posts are all helpful. I attempted to use hydrocal but my milk carton of it was well expired. I live in rural northern VT so going to the local hobby store is out of the question. I made a sample tonight using durabond 20 minute set. Kinda like plaster of paris, but more like variable joint compound. Came out well, a bit messy, but I think this is the ticket. I was looking for good samples via MR, and you all came through for me, much appreciated.
Pete
Gidday Pete, glad to have been of service, and making a presumption for the rest of the respondents to your query, your thanks is appreciated.
No pressure, but we will await the photos of your finished project. [;)] [:D]
Cheers, the Bear.
I use a product called Durham’s Water Putty for my roads. It’s a powder that’s mixed with water. It’s something to keep in mind because it’s a hardware store product and you may be able to find it locally. Hydrocal, likewise, can be found in building-supply places.
For the roads between the rails at grade crossings, I use a solid piece of styrene cut to shape and painted. Most styrene sheets are thin, so I cut another strip and double them up to get to the right height.
Alternately, Blair Line and others make wood inserts, both straight and curved to specific radii, for a different look:
I’ve used a lot of different products and have found them to be mostly the same. Mix some powder, get it to the consistency you want and then pour onto your surface or into a form,spread, clean, add flangeways if needed, joiner strips, etc, then clean again. I have also used a dremel to cut for curbs, clean sharp edges, etc.
Richard
Richard
So true, but learning different techniques (when you know none) from everyone here is great inspiration.
I found some plaster of paris this afternoon at a Art Supply store locally. Pics will have to wait until the weekend.
Pete
Okay, after touting the craft foam, I went to the hobby store and picked up some Atlas code 100 track. Because the rail spikes are so large the foam isn’t sitting as low as it should and it’s still even with the rail head. Perhaps MicroEngineering track would work better. If anyone has some ME track maybe you could test it and report back. Or you could hand lay some ME code 125 rail on PCB ties. This probably wouldn’t be worth it for a simple road crossing, but if you had a lot of track running through city streets or a large paved, industrial area (such as an intermodal facility) it might be worth it.
Steve S
The craft foam (funky foam) now comes in 3 thicknesses (2mm, 3mm and 5mm) and a variety of colors including grey, black, tan and dark brown. It is easy to cut, glue , paint and weather. I don’t understand why folks want to use a messy plaster/putty especially on and around their track when there are easier to use alternatives that look great. I know it is your choice–just say’in.
The foam that I’ve got is 2mm. I didn’t notice anything that was thicker. Does anyone know what type of foam it is? I think it’s EVA, but I’m not sure.
ETA: I just answered my own question. At the Hobby Lobby site they mention that it’s EVA.
Steve S