Hi! New Guy…with a few 1947 Lionel 675 Questions, I Hope this post is not too long or confusing. I’m just excited to share what I am working on.
I have been reading this forum since the summer and the info has helped me greatly so far,
The links to Olsens Toy Trains service pages was the best thing I ever found online.
First off I’m not new to trains (or other hobbies), I have built & modified N scale engines for awhile.
I have the patience and skill to do my own repairs. I like to keep things the way they were built originally. I have restored some full size classic cars so I appreciate originality as much as function.
I managed to get the family’s old lionel set cleaned up and running again for Christmas time
after being unused for almost 20 years. (man were there ALOT of pine needles in the tender whistle!)
I actually turned an old “Christmas decoration” back into a model train and the fealing is great, Thanks!
I had hoped to make my first post be about how I got the Lionel train set my Grandfather bought for
for my Dad running as good as new again and post lots of photos, It ran well enugh for Christmas
and made my dad smile, but I have some questions about its performace, I hope someone can help.
I have a 1947 Lionel 4 car freight set 2123WS, it has the metal pre war style cars with post war staple
end trucks & coil couplers. My Grandfather bought it used from a guy he worked with sometime arround 1949 or 1950. (It was intended as an upgrade from a Marx Nickle Plate road set that I still have.) My Grandfather gave both sets to my Dad when I was born, my Dad gave them to me this year.
The set has the Early 675 Engine, 2466WX Tender, 2458 metal PRR automobile box car, 2555 metal sunoco tank car, 3559 prewar style red dump car, and a non lit 2457 PRR metal caboose. My Set should have the lit caboose but I guess Lionel was out of stock and stuck the cheaper O27 caboose in the set. In the guid
welcome to the slte! l have teo 675s and they are great locomotlves. as far as the traln slowlng down run an other set of feeder wlres from your transformer to the opposlte slde of the track from where your current lock on is.
nothlng wrong wlth the old tube track. l have an x20 platform buit wlth lt.
the 167 uses alot of juice. your 90 watt mlght not be big enough. l’d buy a postwar transformer such as a 1033 wlth the bullt ln whlstle controller.
Jason, to keep the track connections tight, try this: With the track section pointing away from you, bend the outer rail to the left and the center rail to the right. Grab the rail where the pin is installed so you don’t crush the rail. About half the diameter of the pin is about right for the bend. You do not need to squeeze the open end of the rail to use this approach. The track will go together easily and make a good connection. And when you take it apart you will not have to bend anything when you put it back together. I have been playing with trains for 61 years, and I started using this approach about 3 years ago. It works better than Lionel’s approach, and you don’t need gloves to put the track together. I put together a couple of loops for Christmas this year, about 50 track sections in each loop. AI used a single lockon for each loop. The locos did slow slightly on the furthest curves from the lockon, but not enough to warrent adding more lockons. Engines normally slow on curves because of the added friction when the drivers have to slip as the engines goes around the curve.