I am looking for ideas on how best to hinge a shelf layout so I can view/work on the bottom. I am thinking of a 4 inch section fastened to the wall and the hinge fixed to that. This would provide clearance for trees and buildings when the shelf was lifted up. I want this layout to be about twenty feet long so I would build it in sections with connections similar to a lift out section. I am concerned about supporting the shelf as I want no legs to the floor.
Does this sound doable?
Doable, yes. 4" offset wouldn’t be enough for my trees, buildings, hills, etc. You could also hinge the legs and have them fit into holders on the wall. Using lightweight angled and boxed aluminum for certain certain areas would help, for example I would consider that for the legs and frame. You need a rigid frame to avoid possible flex in a 20’ section.
Richard
Thanks Richard. I think you are correct with the larger offset. The legs are still a problem. I need an unobstructed bottom to clear my knees cuz I am in a wheelchair all the time. Do you think I can do the entire shelf in one piece? 1X4 frame with a 5/8 top. Anything larger would be too heavy.
I would avoid the plywood top - gains you little in rigidity, but a huge weight gain. If a 1x2 flange is added to the 1x4 vertical, the frame should be sufficient for 10ft of length. Use foam on top, or open grid.
Much more complex to build, but even lighter and more rigid would be 1/4" plywood grid. Depth of plywood girders deterimines rigidity, grid pieces keep girders in alignment. Adding a 1/4" plywood bottom and/or top strengthens things that much more (produces waffle module construction). However, girders are limited to 8ft unless you cut extra-long (expensive) plywood.
Something to consider is that a section longer than 8ft is going to be nearly impossible to remove from the room at some future date. And will have to be built in place. I would seriously consider keeping sections 8ft or less for future portability, ease of use (lower/raise one hinged section at a time), and expense (lumber longer than 8ft is expensive and difficult to handle/transport).
Rather than legs, consider wire supports from higher up the wall or from ceiling. With the 1x4 L-grider frame, 2 wire supports spaced 6 ft apart (or legs) for a 10ft frame (5ft apart for an 8ft frame) section would be sufficient. The only issue with wire cables would be a method to avoid twisting or kinking the cable - coud be as simple as watching and fixing while you are lowering a layout section. Of course, supports could be 2 piece hinged wood strips or similar instead of wire. The important point would be to get the supports at a 45 degree angle or greater with the hinged se
Thanks Fred. Your suggestions are well taken. The problem with supporting the shelf from above is that I would need to work around them when wiring, ballasting, and trackwork. I will give this some more thought.
Another scenario would be how to add an end to extend the shelf in an “L” configuration.
For a 20’ length if you used hinged legs, I could see them at the ends and every 5’, so 5 in all. I like the idea of foam to reduce weight for the tilting portion for sure. You may want a substantial offset section so that you can attach fasteners, which is made of 2 x 4s.
The legs could be fixed and so come down to contact the wall at a fairly sharp angle to help with the wheel chair. The problem with fixed legs is that they will stick out while in the up position. But for ease of lowering having them fixed makes some sense and a sharp angle will help avoid them sticking out too. Again, I would look at boxed and angled aluminum or even lightweight steel. A tapered/chamfered wall mount system(to help funnel the leg in) will help when lowering so that all 5 legs can mate with the wall fastening system simultaneously. To me, this wall mount system is important to get right. Using say 1 1/2" boxed aluminum could make it easier to use a pin type system.
Put the hinge in the front along the fascia. Then everything has lots of space as it will only be restricted by the floor. If a tray is run under the front edge of the layout to hold your wire runs it will not need much extra when the section is hinged. If the bench work is not too deep the table top could be supported by framing from the wall with no legs at all. The only place the table top would need to be attached to the support structure would be the hinge and the device you use to limit the travel of the hinged section, a short piece of chain or cable would be fine.
I would hinge the corner piece to one wall or the other. It will give you one joint with one edge oppoiste the hinge edge. Alignment is going to be a little tougher here, but not unmanageable.
Section joint alignment is going to be your toughest issue, whether you support the hinged from above or below. Adjustable legs is the typical modular solution. Turnbuckles on the wire cables would provide adjustment for support from above.
Although I have never had to work from a wheelchair, it seems that working around an eyebolt and wire cable would be easier than working around a leg. But I could be very wrong. Either method will work from an engineering perspective. If you provide extra supports (legs or cables) you could temorarily disconnect the one in your way.
just my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Fred W
You could attach it to a full pullout drawer glide and not put in the rear screws and attach the rest to a mid hinged 2x4 or whatever. That would allow you to end up with a finished depth of 20" but when in the up position could be any depth you chose.