I would like to make standard one make of coupler for my railroad. I have several makes of cars and engines. Most of my cars and engines are Proto 2000 models. Does anyone know what make of coupler they use? And is this a good one to standardize with. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Gary[:)]
You are going to hear a chorus of “KaDee, KaDee, KaDee”. Which is true as far as it goes, KaDee makes a high quality knuckle coupler. It’s priced accordingly.
I would recommend looking at the McHenry Knuckle Spring couplers. They are a lower per unit cost and avoid the issues that earlier Proto & McHenry couplers had with the plastic spring substitute. I’ve yet to have any issues with the ones I have installed on my layout.
Mark Gosdin
Well, I really don’t have the legs for a chorus line, but what the hell.
I’m just starting out, and I’m in the process of replacing couplers with - you guess it, Kadee. In my case, with my limited experience, they just seem to work better over the undertrack delayed magnets than the others, not to mention they are easier to seperate with the spade uncoupling tool.
I am replacing ones that are problamatic first though, instead of a wholesale change over (any kit that requires a couple install gets the Kadee right away).
Cheers!
Well, most folks I know use Kadee, but there are some who have had satisfactory ops using either the McHenry style or Accurail coupler. I have talked with folks who are indeed satisfied with the latter two I mentioned.
Whatever coupler you settle on, make certain it is universal through your fleet. Couplers from different manufacturers do not tend to work as reliably as you might want when they are mixed. At our club, we tried (very briefly) to mix a small number of McHenrys with Kadees (which are our standard). The results were pretty lousy as the two different styles of couplers would not reliably couple. We dumped the McHenrys.
One other item; if you opt for a plastic knuckled coupler such as a McHenry, make certain you use the puppies that have a spring that holds the knuckle in place. The plastic whisker style of spring is not very reliable in keeping the coupler closed. Several of our members found that out when they would lose their train on a grade and watch helplessly as the rolling stock careened back down the hill when one of the whiskers failed due to a momentary hesitation in the motive power.[C):-)]
Gary,
What has been on P2K engines/cars has been the lousy McHenry coupler with the ‘living spring’. New Walthers/P2K cars/emgines(like the Hiawatha cars and the FM H10-44) have their new ‘Prot-Max’ metal coupler(much better). It appears to be a clone of the standard Kadee coupler. The probelm is that there are not to many styles available, and it costs more than the Kadee coupler.
Most folks finally settle on Kadee couplers. They cost a little more than the McHenry ‘clones’, but they are reliable. Some of the McHenry couplers with the metal coil knuckle spring(KS series) do perform OK, and are good for special insulated mounting applications. Of course, Kadee also have a series of plastic couplers for insulated mounting too!
Some folks will sing the praises of only using Kadee couplers on their layout. In fact, many of them have plastic clones(they run them until they break). Myself? I do replace the McHenry couplers with the ‘living spring’ with Kadee couplers as I buy the cars. If they have an Accumate(Atlas/Accurail) coupler or a McHenry ‘KS’ style - I replace it if I have a failure(or I am in the ‘mood’ and have a bulk pack of Kadee couplers on hand). I may be in the ‘mood’ tonight - We have 6-9" of snow arriving this evening!
Jim Bernier
Ka-dee-lulia! Ka-dee-lulia!
They will not break for ever and ever.
This chorus is from MIT, so it’s made up of engineers. They’ve even got a conductor. Seriously, you will not be unhappy with Kadee couplers. They are solid and reliable, and Kadee makes a large variety of specialty-size couplers for long shank, short shank, high and low installations.
Thanks for the chuckle Mr B. [(-D][tup]
As with 99% of the responses your going to get, I’m KADEE, no exceptions.
I run short trains and tend to leave the, “Original equipment,” knuckle couplers in service - until the first hint of a problem. Then it’s off to the rip track and on with the Kadees.
As for cars that didn’t have knuckle couplers to start with, or kitbashes, or scratchbuilds - Kadees all the way.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - mostly, working toward all, Kadee couplers)
Personally, I’m switchin gto something called Sergent Couplers. Only standard thing stronger than Kadee. Tests on me to prove it. Uses a similar to Protype method. Gravity pulls a lad ball down, not a spring that can and will fly away from you. ALso twice as expensive and not directly compatible with anything else.
I am also switching to Sergent Engineering couplers but my layout is a 1’ by 6 ’ Timesaver switching game. They are great for smaller layouts. But if I had a layout where I would not be able to easily reach the cars for uncoupling I would stick with the Kadees’ I’ve using up to now.
FWDman