Sheldon, looking at the N scale layout “missabe junction” article I’m almost certain 95% of the models pictured in there are of Atlas and Kato make.
While it may not hold true for HO it does for N, I feel that statement was made out of a scale biased view point but is a statement that does reflect my and plenty of others N scale rosters.
edit: pardon me, I forgot two pairs of LL alco F units as well. my post was an observation and partial opinion, nothing else.
See, now look what you’ve done…you’ve made me interested in acquiring a switcher for my layout [(-D]! I think I can justify it since one cannot have all six axle heavies and four axle “Geeps” on ones layout without at least one switcher now can one…[;)]!
Cheers and happy modeling!
Don.
Gary,
Respectfully, KATO is an N scale company who occasionally “dabbles” in HO - they are not on my radar at all since I don’t model anything past 1954 and their HO selection is limited to say the least - currently only 10 locos, not one in my era of interest.
And, also offered respectfully, which brands offer what in HO vs N are two completely unrelated lists of product. I don’t even know what is currently offered or available in N scale from anyone - nor do I care, I have no interest in buying any N scale - of any brand.
So Yes, EVERYTHING I say is biased toward HO, and is only intended to refer to HO products. Just like my bias against models of prototypes built after 1954 - I’m not interested in them either - in any scale.
My simple point is unless you are just lucky, or purposely choose to base your modeling era, road name and interests around the products of a short list of manufacturers, you might want to keep a more open mind about each individual product and not judge too quickly on BRAND NAME alone.
I have lots of Bachmann, but there are specific Bachmann pieces I would not take for free.
I have very little Broadway, but there are some that I will tell you straight up are very nice.
Atlas also offers very little that is in my era, and most everything they have offered in my era, other brands I already have large n
Thanks Sheldon! Good info!
Dan
Thanks Pbrad…You confirmed my Kato Experience. Although I do have an Atlas Genset [because I own the Lionel Vision Genset and thought and HO version would be cool] with a MRC decoder, and I’m okay with it. I do wish I’d waited for the Soundtraxx decoder. You confirmed what I’ve heard about some of the MTH product…thx for your input!
Dan
Great Moxie, and great tag line Sheldon!
Dan
So far I have never needed either, hopefuly I never will!
Since I’ve gotten my track “loop” connected (about 1 year ago, DC power) I’ve continuously run my Intermountain Gevo’s and Genesis SD70Ace’s and while they both run great at all speeds, the Aces have had both headlites burn out, one plow fell off and one of the trucks seems to be affected by the wires connected to it because the set of wheels by the feul tank is off the rails. I put an atlas B32 on and it ran iffy, also the new Trainman Genset, neither went at low speeds. The p2k E-8 ran like a champ. Wish I had more time to test because I have at least one of every brand except MTH.[2c]
Too much negative commentary on Intermountain? Geez, I have four of them, and I don’t have a single complaint.
I agree with the others on Athearn Genesis. I have several AG diesels, but quality is hit and miss.
Atlas and Proto are more reliable and dependable.
Rich
Dan,
Youre welcome! And it’s just Brad…slip of the fingers typing on the iPad resulted in “pbrad,” lol.
brad
Hello Dan…
Wow.
There are a lot of verying views, aren’t there? Lol.
Well, now its time for me to share with you my advice on what is and isn’t a good choice - and how to decide for yourself what you should buy.
First, it sounds like you model a specific road(NS) and are in the more modern era.
So, that gives you a wide selection of equipment to choose from for just about anything you want to model.
Right now, there’s never, ever been a wider selection of modern NS power available in HO scale.
Now, let’s talk about the Quality of one manufacturer vs. another for a minute.
There is nobody on this Forum that is more critical of quality of fit, function and finish than I.
I can tell you from vast experience: Nobody - and I mean nobody - is building the ‘perfect model’ -period.
Athearn has gone through nearly 3 years of factory change-over in China that has set them back nearly as long getting new products developed and to market…they are just now beginning to bring in normal quantity of product.
I have several of the NS SD70M-2 models w/sound - the detail and quality are as fine as it can get - and there are limits, so my advice is to try to shop where you can select from several of the same thing -to insure you are getting the best of the bunch. I think that for the most part, you’ll find the model very well done and free of most problems without worry.
Athearn has also just released and i have just taken delivery - of two NS GP38-2’s High nose versions and they are just about as perfect as they can be within limits of reason.
SIDEBAR: there’s been a lot of criticism of Athearn using incandescent micro lamps as opposed to the more popular trend of LEDs for lighting.
I don’t necessarily favor one over the other - they both have pros and cons. I actually prefer the ‘look’ of the incandescent lamp over most LEDs because
Heritagefleet1
That’s a very useful solution for improving the factory Athearn lamps. Do you also replace the incandescent ditch lights as well…or are you referring only to the headlamps? The ditch lights would be my concern, and that was really at the center of my previous posts since the OP is modeling modern era.
I nave never tried replacing a teeny tiny bulb in a ditch light housing (that’s already attached to a locomotive BTW) and
That is interesting because you will get a lot more negative commentary from me on the Athearn Genesis. I’ve several of that brand sitting in boxes that never made it past a first operating session without some sort of issue. I was even in the boycott mode on that line for a while. I’m going to try the new SDP45s and see what I think.
On the other hand the only complaint I’ve had with Intermountain was that in the early days (like 15 years ago) they tried to mold the plastic in the correct color and then only paint the trim or details. This meant the headlamp would shine through the plastic on the nose (on F units). This was easily fixed by painting the inside black. As far as I know that issue was also fixed years ago.
I would think it might be a good idea for you to reconsider that decision.
By definition those two lines are a different level of detail. Genesis is Athearn’s top of the line. Plus I’ve not seen a new HO Kato in a long time. My last Kato was the RSC-2 from umm umm 1997. I looked at their SD70s in umm umm 2006? as their release was at the same time as the Genesis. At that time they looked about equal in the level of detail, and I went with the Genesis version because of the color of the paint. I believe the Kato was too dark.
Doughless…
Yes, I replace all the factory lamps - many I haven’t replace on older run units yet because I haven’t experienced a failure- if one goes, they all get replaced - that’s the policy… taking apart a locomotive and putting it back together should only be performed if necessary and I don’t like taking things apart and back together - it some point, you increase the risk of breakage or damage of something else.
But it’s not hard to replace the lamps (the new Ex-T55 Gevos are a pain in the arse) in most cases at all.
The glue is water-soluble and lightly wetting the lamp area will soften the glue for removal ease…in most cases you don’t even need to do this.
I use canopy glue to reinstall the new lamps which are slightly larger diameter and fit better in the openings.
The ditchlights are sometimes tricky so you just have to handle each case differently - some lamps will easily pull right out from under the anticlimber - others are more snug - do NOT pull them. use a little water around the glue and wait for it to soften - then gently slide the lamp out once thats done just pullthe wire leads thru the front of the Pilot face…done. To install new lamps, I thread the wire leads thru the Pilot first - then gently bend the lamp at a 90 degree angle to get in a position to easily insert it back into the Ditchlight housing - sometimes these come loose and that is not a bad thing -it will make it easier for the lamp to be inserted - all in all the average time to replace all the lamps as about 20-30 minutes depending on how adept your fingers are!
Thanks for the info. It sounds like replacing the ditch lights isn’t too bad. Would you wire them into the same resistors that you use for the new head lamps or would you use separate resistors?. I’m thinking that if you want them to flash, etc,.they need to be on a circuit separ
Thanks heritagefleet1 for the great insight and info!
Dan