My job has taken me on the road away from the layout. I am using this opportunity to build some of the many freight car kits that I have collected over the years. I am also tuning up my existing rolling stock. Including replacing the few remaining plastic couplers with KDs!!!
I like to replace the plastic wheel sets with metal wheels for better performance. A few years ago I purchased a 100 bulk pack of Jay-Bee 33" wheels (pointed axles). I would like to get another Jay-Bee bulk pack, but I am having difficulty finding them. I have looked at Atlas wheels, as I have some Atlas rolling stock with metal wheels, however the Atlas website states these wheels are for Atlas cars only.
Most of my rolling stock (freight) is Athearn and MDC/Roundhouse. I continue to aquire these on Ebay as they fit my modeling era. I will continue to look for the Jay-Bee sets, but would like to hear from others who use other brands of wheel sets.
I use the Intermountain and Proto, they both seem to work well on the MDC and Athearn models, with just an easy drop in with no trimming on the axel pockets. I had some Jay-Bee a few years ago and used them on other models, and they worked well also.
I usually use Intermountain (IM) wheels. They make 33" and 36", RP25 tread contour and .088" wide tread. They also make ball bearing wheelsets, very pricey. The wheels are mounted on little ball bearings; I think these may have applications on old brass or Walthers passenger cars and such.
I get the bulk packs, 100 wheelsets to a box. The MDC//Roundhouse cars will roll like the wind with these. Accurail trucks are also good with IM wheels. You will find the low spots on your layout.
Proto wheelsets, to my eye, are of lesser quality. They dip the axle end in plastic, instead of a machined needle point. The Proto trucks also roll like the wind, though. Proto wheels in Athearn or MDC trucks don’t roll as good as the IM, but still decent.
Two things I’d advise if you’re replacing wheelsets: 1) Pick up a truck tuning tool like the one from Micro-Mark. Clean and clear the axle sockets in the truck frame to get the wheelsets turning freely (heck, I’d suggest this even if you don’t change wheelsets). 2) Especially if you plan to use the magnetic uncouplers to uncouple or spot your cars, look for wheelsets WITHOUT a magnetic (steel rod) axle. These steel axles can cause a lot of false uncouplings and difficulty getting the couplers to set in the delayed position.
There are several good brands of replacement wheelsets out there, don’t let your project get bogged down if you can’t find a particular one.
I use Intermountain and Proto 2K, noting that there is a slight difference in axle length, Intermountain are about .01 inch shorter than Proto. making them fit looser in some trucks.
I have the Micro-Mark Truck Tool and I use it in my tune up process. Sounds like good support for IM and PK2 Wheel Sets. I may order a small package of each and see how they work. Thanks for the comments.
I have used them, and do. They are now standard on the FHN. Several reasons: You can get axle lengths to exactly match your sideframes; you get very free-running wheelsets, due to the small axle diameter at the journals(and thus smaller contact areas in the journals); the wheels have the 0.088" tread, which look much better, especially on tank cars, hoppers, and flats (and have NO operational problems, contrary to what you may have heard in sundry urban legends). “The Tool”, from Reboxx or MicroMark is also an essential tool.