I’ve been using a 90 foot Walthers motorized turntable that came in kit form. I can only descibe my satisfaaction with it as marginal. Problems include erratic and noisey movement in one of two directions, some difficulty in getting exact track alignment, and play in the bridge even when stopped. Even though I am very, very careful during operation I’m experiencing derailments about one fourth of the time.
I understand a built up version from Walthers will soon be available and I am assuming it will be very similar to the 130 foot unit they introduced a while back. I’m hoping to hear some feedback from people that bought the bigger unit and perhaps from people that operate products from other manufacturers like Bowers
Hey Crandell,
I’ve done some tweeking, too. Eliminated the power supply “wipes” by replacing them with springs wrapped around the shaft … That gives me reliable power to the rails no matter what position the bridge is in. I’m all ears about any other improvements I might be able to incorporate.
Reale1
I kept the wipes, but filed the top and bottom edges, on the wipe contact area, so that the wipes stayed in their tracks better, on the right sides of the spacers. They kept wanting to ride up, but I later realized it was due to the poor pivoting of the TT bridge.
That was my biggest challenge. The bridge rocked and shook in its bearing, no matter what I did. Therefore, the works in the housing were at odds with the inclination of the bridge to wobble and seize. What I eventually did was two things:
a. I gently shimmed the motor away from the wall of the housing so that it would mesh with the big ring gear better.
b. I cut plastic rectangular shims out of flat plastic and placed them on either side of the pivot axle, immediately between the bottom surface of the pit and the large metal washer. That stabilized the movement so well that, with the motor gear carefully meshed and the whole drive housing screwed into place, and the TT scenicked in place, it works very reliably…rotating in one half of the arc.
Let me explain. The basin/pit is not perfectly circular, so the bridge binds at places. I have slowly improved the rotation by sanding the pit wall where the bridge seems to bind. Once the bridge swings freely all the way around, I will purchase an auto-reverser and use it to get full function.
If you try my cure (and if what I describe in bridge movement is your problem), don’t forget a plastic-compatible grease on all friction surfaces, especially in the bottom bearing and between the shims and washer.
I’ve got it working a lot better after being encouraged to be a little more innovative. It still binds momentarily in one position when moving counterclockwise, but other than that moves 360 degrees in both directions. Clockwise is nealy perfect (smooth and very quiet)… The other way is more noisy, not as smooth and has that binding problem.
Unfortunately, about the time I turned 60 I had concluded that I must surely be an obsesive / compulsive basket case! It seems I just can’t leave something alone until its absolutely PERFECT! I’ve already tried a similar idea to your shim solution, but I might try the one shown in your photo. if that doesn’t do the trick I guess I’ll just have to bite the bullet and spring for a built up 90 footer or maybe switch to Bowser.
Thanks for taking the time to help. I really appreciate it!
Selector - tks or the info. I put my TT in the"someday" box long ago because of the mentioned problems. With this new info I will get it out and try it again.
reale1 - Could you go into more detail on your spring modification? It sounds interesting but I can’t vizualize it.
Thanks to both of you.
Terry[8D]
Hi Guys!
First of all, I couldn’t resist trying Crandell’s idea that was shown in the picture. That one was a definite winner and I highly recomend it.
Secondly, moter kits came in two varieties… the first was worthless… the second (which is sold now) is much better.
Springs… Nothing fancy… I found some approx quarter inch diameter, one inch long general purpose springs… I wrapped one around each of two brass sleeves on the shaft… Soldered the ends together and attached power supply wires to each… They stay in place when the bridge rotates and provide reliable pwer to the track above.
I built mine and it wasn’t overly hard and works like a top. I used the following:
Round needle point frame hoops for the pit walls
1.5 Audio Jack from Radio shack as my power pick up/folcrum
External Gear Wheels from a R/C BuggyBass Wood and Styrene for the Bridge
Railings are soldered brass rods
and the geared motor is this one that nfmisso (Nigel) told me about
It makes very happy that all that grinding and gnashing of teeth, seething, cursing, and determination paid off. The spring idea is novel to me, but ingenious.
Now, mount it and make the rails match to the layout ones on each end, place it, scenic it to make it look like it is part of the landscape, and enjoy.
Here is a picture of mine, all weathered and painted up. You can see that I cheated and placed extended rails on the bridge, as well as extended rails outside the house. that way, my Niagara can ride onto the bridge, rotate, and back into the house, sort of.
This is an older picture where you can see the scraped styrene on the far wall of the pit where I was grinding it away. Looks much purdier now.
reale1 - Tks for the additional info. Not quite picturing how the springs would go but when i get the TT out and look at it maybe it will become clear. If not I’ll bug you again.
Terry[8D]
Hey Terry,
On the underside of the turntable are a large washer, a plastic gear that’s maybe 4 inches in diameter, and the shaft that is attached to the bridge. At the bottom of the shaft are two brass sleves that are conected to the two rails on top of the bridge. Even though I followed the assembly directions very carefully I found that the brass “wipes” would sometimes lose contact with the sleeves. That meant in certain bridge positions there was no power to the rails. It was especially frustrating because you never knew when or where it was going to happen.
Here’s my solution: Using a pair of regular old general pupose, hardware store, springs (approx. a quarter inch in diameter and an inch or so long) bend them in a circle that sort of resembles a tiny little doughnut and glue, solder, or otherwise fasten the ends together (I did this a while ago so you may have to experiment a little to find springs that are exactly the right size). Next, attach lead wires from whatever system you use to control locomotives (I use a combination of block and R/C cab control so on the turntable I go through an Atlas Controler and I can easily reverse polarity on the bridge rails). Then all you need to do is slide the “doughnuts” onto the two brass sleeves. You have to check carefully to insure that the springs will stay seperated by the little plastic washer between the sleeves otherwise you’ll have a dead short! The lead wires should be solid core (not stranded) variety. I ran mine from each of the springs directly to the little plastic tab that the wipes were supposed to be attached to. With the wire being fairly taught the springs basically stay in the same position all the time. Underneath the turntable the only things the motor moves are the big gear, the shaft, and the sleeves which easily revolve inside the springs and stay in constant contact. I have fooled with this turntable off and on for a couple of years… Thank goodness it now works in the 99th percentile!
Good luck with yours…
Dav
