I was reading the V&O story in the Jan. edition of MR when I noticed that he used homasote spline. I have used pine and masonite cut 1/4" x 3/4" as spline. If anyone has used homasote, I would be interested in the dimensions of the spline that you used. I need to add an extension and this might be another worthy experiment.
Homasote comes in 1/2 in sheetes. Cut it into 2" strips. I don’t use it myself, but I have helped build other layouts that used it. 3 spline for single track, then split one spline at a 45-60 deg angle and attach half to each side for ballast shoulder. The spline is attached using drywall screws, no glue. It helps to have lots of quik clamps. Glue the ties directly to the spline and spike the rail down.
We used homasote spline on a club layout built in the 70’s. The original builders ripped the homasote into 4"x96" pieces and supported them with risers. They sealed the homasote with something, I don’t know what. It was strong and held up for thirty years before the layout was dismantled. Mounting switch machines was a problem from what I recall.
The fellow who introduced the homasote spline od in our area originally used 3" spline but found that 2" wide strips held up just as well. He did not seal his homasote.
I have been using homasote spline for about 8 years, it has been trouble free. I ripped the 4X8 sheets into 2in wide strips, then cut grooves in the splines at about 1 to 1 1/2 inch intervals to make it more flexable. I glue the strips together in place and use clamps and/or drywall screws to hold it in place until the glue drys. Once the glue is dry remove the clamps/drywall screws and smooth the top surface with a Stanley Sureform tool. If any depressions are present in the surface, apply joint compound using a wide tape knife. I lay either cork or Homabed on top of the splines.
I have found that the vertical grooves cut in the splines for flexability are unnecessary for my 32in min. radius curves.
Tortise switch machines are mounted by cutting an approx. 2"X3" square of 1/4 plywood, run the sureform tool on the underside of the splined roadbed to make a smooth surface, the glue the 2"x3’ square to the underside of the roadbed with white or carpenter’s glue, screw the switch machine to this wood square. It sounds more complicated than it is. A hole is drilled through the roadbed for the acutating arm from the Tortise through the throwbar on the turnout.
All,
Based on its characteristics I would think Homosote spline would be one of the quieter track support methods. Haven’t seen any acoustical comparisons in model railroading magazines. Would someone who has experience with both Homosote spline and some other method care to comment on which method is quieter, please ?
Bob