Has anyone found out how to make your own smoke fluid? If so, do tell.
Yup.
Smoke fluid is nothing more than parrafin oil, what the US calls Mineral oil. Buy it in large quantites from the drug store. They sell it to help with constipation. If you want a nice aroma buy lamp oil, same stuff
Ah yes, the lamp oil…I have a few of these lanterns. Careful, world, there is some of this lamp oil that is, ironically, smokeless!
Capt. C.,
You’re joking right??? Smokeless??? OK sure. Seriously all we need is lamp oil? This is good! Never knew this but I will give it a try. That or mineral oil. Cooking oil makes for a great smoke show if you pour it over your rear tires…ooops did I say that??? Car guys eh…that’s why I concentrate on trains. Less trouble to get into. Later eh…Brian.
Here is the scoop on smokeless lamp oil…
“Lamplight Farms traces its heritage to the time when founders Donald and Rosemary Tendick pioneered the development of an oil especially formulated to burn in oil lamps without producing the smoke and odor associated with kerosene. Reminded of his wife’s collection of antique kerosene lamps, Mr. Tendick became interested in finding a lamp oil that she could use which would be both pleasant smelling and smokeless. After months of experimenting to develop such an oil, Mr. Tendick came upon a formulation of two oils that not only burned without producing smoke, but also had the delightful scents of peppermint and bayberry. Recognizing the appeal such fuels would have for other lamp collectors, the Tendicks decided to market their new discovery.”
Capt. C.,
So it would be safe for indoors…but I would’nt be able to see the smoke…hmmmm…OK so I’ll make my Shay into an indoor air freshener. HEY my railway passes through the bathroom in the basement. This is good!!! Instead of lighting a match when you are done…a Shay to make it all OK. NEXT! Man I need to get to sleep. Later eh…Brian.
Hummmmmm…I can see it now…Bachmann and Lamp Light farms can market the WC& Head Express. It can have a spool car with toilet paper and a caboose that reminds people to flush.[:D]
Mineral Oil works!! I bought a quart bottle and poured some into the smoke generator for the Infernal Revenue Service building on fire on an HO-scale layout and the mineral oil makes better smoke than the smoke fluid sold at hobby shops. It’s certainly a lot cheaper, too. Under $7 per quart would be over $100 worth if buying the small plastic vials of smoke fluid.
cacole,
That is a tremendous savings. Will have to give that a try myself. Now that the snow is all gone there’s lots to do! Later eh…Brian.
I have not had time to research this in any detail but I would caution everyone as to what they are using. Flashpoints and ignition tempratures can very widly in these materials, especially with addatives that may be used. The smoke units themselves may also operate at varying tempratures between manufactures.
What this means is some smoke units may produce enough temprature to cause non- recommended oils to ignite. This could cause a little more excitement on your railroad than you were counting on.
If I get some time I will do some checking and report back. For those wondering, no I don’t work for a manufacture, I’m a firefighter and would hate to see your investment go up in … well… smoke.
I restate my original posting.
Smoke oil IS mineral oil aka paraffin oil
Just to put my 2 cents in and let you know what problems using all the above stuff can do and can not do.
I tryed it all, some smoke better than others but I finally settled down with Magic smoke dept. 56.
Worked great in LGB smoke units, but then got into the new Aristo and MTH wick type smoke units.
Clogged the wick up in no time into a hard packed black crust.
I now have settled down to using MTH smoke fluid, it seems to be cleaner and smokes like crazy. Aristo smoke fluid also works well.
Some fluids have more paraffin in them and that is not for wick type smokes.
Replacement smoke units can be expensive, more than buying good smoke fluid.
Bud[8D]
I’ve used candle scents {fluids used for scenting home made candles} and they also worked very well for me.
I also use Mineral Oil, but may mix in a small amount of candle scent fluid or even a small amount of perfume, only about 25ml to a standard small glass bottle{same size that regular smoke fluid comes in} of mineral oil {90% bottle filled with mineral oil + 25ml of perfume}, this has also worked very well and kept the smoke unit clean due to the perfume having a wee bit of alcohol in it.
Never use full perfume or you could possibly start a fire in the smoke unit and your loco may go up in smoke!
I’ve found this mixture of mineral oil{90% filled smoke bottle} + regular perfume{25ml} to work very well, give a pleasant smell and after experimenting with it for over 6+ months, no detrimental effects to the loco or smoke system.
NOTE: if using this method, always shake the fluid bottle vigoursly to keep everything mixed well before putting it into your smoke unit!
There have been endless threads on this. The basis for all smoke fluids may be similar or the same, but some of them clog wicks, and some don’t. Are you using so much that you cannot use one that is “tried and true”?
If you get some Aristo smoke fluid, you would NOT say it is identical to mineral oil, it has some more “solvent type” of characteristics.
If you must experiment, try it, but monitor how quickly your wick clogs or gets that thick brownish stuff on it.
To me, smoke fluid is less expensive than replacing wicks on smoke units.
Greg
I have found that the fuel used in “tiki torches”, the outdoor torches you can buy at stores like ACE can work well. You can buy gallons of the fuel at one time. They also make fuel that repels mosquitoes, I haven’t tested its repellent by use of smoke fluid, but it would be interesting to try, if you run trains outside.
I would suggest some long term testing, many smoke oils are part solvent… the mineral oil and tiki oil is not.
Put 50 hours on your smoke unit and tell us how the wick is afterwards.
Greg
For what it is worth, I tried tiki torch oil for a while, and it was indifferent in my LGB and B’mann locos. I spend the bucks for “real” smoke oil, and all works well and, the case of my LGB mogul, even works dramatically well! I didn’t think the risk of non-purpose oil - and I have read the sometimes acrimonious debates on the subject - was worth it given its tepid smoke volume.
On a related note, I scored some '90-s vintage LGB smoke oil when I bought a goodie box last year of used train stuff. Is this stuff still good, or does it break down?
Thanks, Eric