I was wondering what you ppl did to hold your track down? I tried ot use nails atlas track nails but they bent or they broke the tie. If you used nails what did you use to nail the nails down and then if you used glue what kind’ve of glue?
If you use nails to hold down premade track sections, you have to fully seat them with a nail set, and be sure that the nail head doesn’t compress the ties at ALL. Otherwise, you’ll either break the ties (as you found out) or will bend the ties, taking the track out of gauge.
That’s one reason I prefer gluing down my track. I actually use latex caulk, but it adheres well, acts as a sound deadener, and allows the track to be (carefully) pried up if need be.
If you use the Atlas track nails(or any wire brad), and are nailing into plywood you may need to ‘pre-drill’ the hole into the plywood. I used Homabed for my roadbed(1/4" thick) on top of 1/2" plywood. Most of the time I could use a small modeling hammer and a nail set to drive the track nails, but some area’s of the plywood I had to use a small pin-vise and bit to make a ‘pilot’ hole to nail into. I did look for 1/4" or 3/8" wire brads with no luck!
I have not tried the ‘liquid nails’ or glue method. Not sure how easy it is to make adjustments when laying track.
Jim Bernier
Jim Bernier
I used ho scale track nails (I don’t recall the maufacturer) and for the most part I installed close to 1000 of them using a square tipped minature plier made by Husky. My method was to hold the head of the track nail in the first tooth of the plier and press it into the cork roadbed until almost all the way in. Then I used the flat (as I said, Square) tip of the plier to flu***he nail.
Making adjustments was easy with nails, as I could pull them out and put them back until I was happy with the tracks line and location.
I decided to nail my track based on the advice of Ole Bob at my LHS. He’s never steered me wrong.
Trevor
I use track nails. First I drill the hole slightly smaller than the nail - through the tie, the roadbed, into the subroadbed. Then I tap it home using a small hobby hammer and a nail set. You want the hole just tight enough to require light tapping. That way you can nail it in so that you don’t deform the tie - ideally you leave the head a sheet of paper high.
Enjoy
Paul
Im using latex adhesive. Make sure you buy one that is plastic safe. I have used nails in the past but i had the same problem with ties. With the glue its a little harder to pull up track and move it.
I use a carpet to hold the track, then put pieces of wood and plastic under it to make sure it’s all level. Then I use my Spectrum DASH 8 to see if there are bumps in the track because the snowplow is so low on it, and it will slide on the track if there’s an uneven spot.
Well, then what do you do with the excess flex track? I have the curve laid out and it took a little over 2 pieces to make it. Now I have to much movable rail on the inside? I have all the movable rails on the inside?
If your layout is in a room that experiences seasonal variations in temperature and humidity, using nails in only the pre-drilled holes will result in in “kinky” curves. The typical spacing for Atlas Flex track is two holes spaced about an inch apart and then the next pair of holes spaced about 4 or 5 inches further down. Temperature changes causes curvature changes between the two different anchor points. To avoid this, space the nails evenly , use a plastic compatible adhesive, or both.
That’s the best scenario. If the sliding rail is on the inside of the turn it is easy to snip off. I use Xuron Rail Nippers (XRN) for this job. I have heard of some people using the cutoff tool on their dremel, but for me the XRN are the best. I only use them for cutting rails and nothing else. They give a nice clean cut.
With flex trak, you’ll find that you will have to remove a tie or two near the join. These can be saved and later fitted back into place.
Trevor[:)]
In the HO display module i’m building i just used woodland scenics trackbed and glued the track to it with that craft tacky glue. So far it has held both the track and the roadbed down fairly well. Its been in my garage for a while and hasnt come up or anything.
John
fredonia,
I use Atlas track nails. I tack them with a small tack hammer (in plywood using cork roadbed) and use a nailset to get them just right. I appreciate your dilemma. Others in my club have tried using the same nails and their own small hammers and bent a bunch of nails, or misaligned the track. It just takes the right tools and practice. I don’t normally drill lead holes.
Mark C.
I started with nails but got very frustrated [V] , then went to AMI roadbed. The only problem with that roadbed is, if you ever have to replace a piece of track or want to change the layout, your going to break track in the process, back to the original problem of breaking track. I now use Woodland Scienecs roadbed glued with hobby glue [:D] and it works wonders. I haven’t tried to change track yet but it is much quieter than the cork.
on the pike that is under construction now i hace used low temp hot glue. I have had to take up a switch and heating the glur back up with the tip of the glue gun has proved to be acceptable for me. I heard that it may not be a good idea but it has worked for me. My pike is homasote base with foam board on top. The low temp has not affected the foam in ant negative way
I use stick pins. The surface of my layout is plaster over foam, so pins work great for holding things like track down with. Then I just paint the heads of the pins to match the ties…
trainluver1
THANK YOU all for you suggestions. I used latex caulk and it is much easier to lay the track with. THANK YOU again.
For my new layout I have been thinking about using the instant road bed by AMI anyone try this ,Joseph