I am trying to make the tender have taller wheels so the coupler can be aligned properly. So i originally bought an underset shank coupler, while that worked it still on coupled to 3/5ths of the coupler. So I bought a bigger set of wheels but now i am realizing that the tall wheels may not even fit because of the bogies/trucks beneath the tender.
So I tried taking the bogies/trucks off but they don’t unscrew off! I’ll constantly twist left or right and i don’t know what to do, the tender has pick ups so the back light can turn on but i know there has to be a way to take it apart, i just don’t know how to yet.
So all i ask is for some help, please and thank you
TL;DR - Tender Trucks don’t unscrew and need help to disassemble then reassemble it
Installing taller wheels so the coupler can be aligned properly is not the way to handle this issue. Using underset or overset couplers is sometimes the solution, although you are indicating it did not work in this instance. Those are talgo trucks in which the coupler box is part of the truck. My solution in such an instance has been to cut off the coupler assembly from the truck and install a body mounted coupler assembly.
He needs an exploded view drawing of the tender to see how to take the shell off. I’d look on HOseeker to see if they have one. The Bachmann web site won’t load on any browser I use!
I suspect there are nuts on the end of those truck screws and that’s why you can’t get the trucks off. Those could be ‘cemented’ in place with solvent and a bit of sprue or plastic stock once you get the shell off for access.
I agree that you should modify or replace the trucks so they have no ‘Talgo’ extensions, install a body-mounted coupler box as suggested, and then get a Kadee coupler-height gauge and adjust your height relative to that, shimming or filing at the truck pivots to fine-tune the height. Note that if you do use ‘larger wheels’ you may have to file part of the truck frame, or re-do your molded-on brake shoes to clear – shimming the truck pivots does not involve that, and you won’t have to learn how to ‘tune’ your truck bearings, get the right length axles, etc. etc. that you probably don’t know about yet.
Now I’m intrigued, how do i install a body mounted coupler? Because I originally just wanted to learn how to take the tender apart just so I can see what makes it all put together so i can fix up the trucks beneath
How would fine tune the beight if the pivots for the trucks? I can hardly see inbetween their bolt and bottom of the tender from a side view, less I’m reading that wrong
You would use a small hobby saw or jeweler’s saw to cut off that coupler box from the truck. Then you would mount a Kadee coupler box on the underside of the tender. You will likely need to shim the coupler box to match the height, using a shaped piece of styrene sheet. Once that is done, insert the coupler and coupler box cover.
You take the truck off the tender, and put a thin washer between truck and tender underside to add height, or gently file ‘square’ to reduce height. You can also use very thin plastic or brass strip and drill a hole to clear the screw.
Real trucks have side bearings. Most models don’t,for a number of expedient reasons.
For pockets, you file and cut a location for one of the Kadee pockets. Then you shim so that the coupler in the box will be at correct GAUGE height when you glue the box in position. You can use gap-filling cyanoacrylate or two-part epoxy to make the joint solid and relatively shock and twist resistant… be sure to clamp CAREFULLY and check level and twist before the adhesive sets. The box has a threaded mounting post for a screw; you put the coupler over the post, align the centering spring, and screw the bottom cover on. Check with the height gauge and tweak as necessary, and ensure that the shank is free to pivot from side to side but not ‘up and down’.
What brand locomotive is this? Definitely not Athearn? Can we see a picture of the whole loco? Were there little bronze wipers held in place by the wheels? Is this a Bachmann loco?
You may have damaged the wiring inside the tender by spinning those truck screws. Body mounting the coupler is a good idea, but it may not be the only solution.
Can you give more details about the original problem? Was the coupler too low?
The locomotive is an IHC/Mehano that is likely to be 25-30 years old. Newer production versions of that loco have body mounted couplers.
There is likely a small screw, hidden partly by the coupler arm on the rear truck. Removing that screw will allow the back of the floor to lift out of the shell and release from two tabs in the front.
And yes if you spun those truck screws, you may have twisted the wires.
That loco is either a 2-8-2 Mikado or 4-6-2 Pacific - IHC sold both in Daylight colors and both used the same tender.
I don’t know how well you will be able to see this, but here are some pictures.
That coupler was too low? That does not seem right. Do you have the little brass spring plate for that coupler? Do you have the original coupler? Were there other parts to the original coupler? Do you have the box the loco came in? Did you buy it new from some sort of dealer?
It is defiantly and IHC/Mehano 4-6-2 Pacific. Can you find a screw on the bottom of the tender floor? Are there wires that run between the engine and tender and plug in? Or no wires?
Do you have a proper gauge for coupler height?
I see in the background that you have ATHEARN passenger cars. While the coupler height on them is generally pretty reliable, don’t assume they are at the perfect correct height either. How old are they? I’m guessing the passenger cars have knuckle couplers already? Are the rusty brown?
Kadee makes a gauge that sits on the track for checking proper coupler height.
I found a parts diagram for the newer version of this loco, but not for this older version.
The Original coupler was a hook-horn style, it had no additional parts, however I did just take the shell of the tender off. I think I might have my solution to help, however there is a newer version of this loco? Because I bought this older version off ebay, runs like a charmer, I just don’t like the coupler and coupler height with it
Looking closer at your picture, I see that is a Kadee long underset shank whisker coupler. Kadee does say you need the underset shank, but they how it dropping into the original box.
The drawing an instructions on the Kdee web site suggest that the horn hook coupler should have been held in with a plastic cover that spans in place and the the Kadee coupler should go in and be retained by the cover.
