Hello again, it’s me, the new guy who knows nothing,
I was wonder what others here use to hook up all their powered accessories to the two screw on the power box?
I’m guessing the two hook into some sort of board and then the accessories hook up to the board maybe?
Is there a link here on how to learn this?
Thanks.
Jess Red Horse of the Clueless Tribe!
Jess,
The best way to do it is to get some Atlas Accessory switches. They’re not terribly expensive, and they’re very easy to hook up. If you’re a little more in tune with the mysterious ways of electricity, you can get terminal strips and toggle switches at your friendly local Radio Shack and build your own control panel.
The switches allow you to turn the various accessories on and off, which is handy if you ever have to do any trouble shooting… If you have a short circuit somewhere, just turn each item on one at a time, the one that fails is the one to fix!
It’s also a good idea to use a separate power pack for switch machines. They tend to draw a lot of juice when they fire, which can cause a voltage drop to your track power and other accessories. This would cause house lights etc. to dim when the switch machine is thrown.
Hope this helps.
Lee
Atlas Products. Click on Track and HO & N Accessories. Scroll down. There are photos when you click on the items.
Since you are new with this, Atlas would be the way to go. Get the Atlas wiring book. Some libraries have the book. No soldering. I do not know what your soldering capabilities are like.
Rich
Hi,
went to Amazon.com and done a quick search. This is what came up http://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wiring-Model-Railroaders-second/dp/0890243581/ref=cm_lmf_tit_16_rsrsrs0.
Both books look quite good for the purpose that you would like to learn about. Also reading these books might save you a lot of frustrations. Of course you can check out this great forum and go to sites like the one from Joe Fugate and get more great information.
Hope it helps
Frank
I agree. This is the easiest way.
Another point we agree on. I use an old Bachmann trainset power pack to power my switch machines as Bachmann switch machine require AC power.
Hey Jesse,
Strips like these or similar work great.
http://www.newmarpower.com/Terminal_Strips_Bus_Bars/Terminal_Strips_Bus_Bars.html
You might want to wander over to the Electronics/DCC forum and check out the threads on lighting your layout. One of them has a mod for an old computer power supply that will power those accessories quite nicely for cheap.
You could also use Atlas Connectors but I find them to be a bit pricey for what they are. Besides they don’t make a pretty control panel. [:)]
Thank You all,
After all the help I’ve been getting here I’m humbled by the kindness of others at this site.
To the person who sent the trees and bags of grass after my layout got destroyed I wish to thank you from the bottom of my heart, I just wish you would have placed a return address on the box so that I could have thanked you in a PM or better yet a letter.
This site has the best people in the hobby and after all the help I’ve received here in a few years I should be a pro at this HO thing, and I can’t wait for the day when my knowledge helps out a new comer!
I often tell my wife about this site and when she sees I’m getting stressed she says, “Why don’t you go take a time out on that train site of yours”, what a woman, what a site, and I feel like I’ve made some good friends here.
If I can ever be of any help to any of you please PM me and I will do my very best to help you.
One Grateful Indian,
Jess Red Horse.
I’ve wired a terminal strip for this. I also use another transformer (one of those cheapo ones that come with a train set) for my accessories so it takes the load off my primary transformer.
The easiest way is to use terminal strips, jumpered all along the side that connects to your controlled supply. Then connect your loads to the other side terminals. Hint: I use the little plastic things (different colors for different uses) from bread wrappers and mark on them with a sharpie what is connected. Just hang it on the wires! jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
Hey Jesse,
I have to say I am touched by the kindness of the person who sent the scenic supplies. It’s good to see that there are still people like that in this world, sure we all know the good ones are out there but it’s nice to be reminded when you hear about something like this.
Jesse, it’s easy to want to help someone like you who is so appreciative of the help others give him. [:)]
I wouldn’t say you have not been able to help or contribute to the forum. Your passion and exuberance for your hobby comes through clearly in your posts. You are an inspiration to all of us who are still learning and developing skills. I think we are all still learning but some of us are doing more learning while others are doing more teaching. Many of us could learn from your example of the proper way to conduct oneself on this or any online forum. [tup]</
The BEST Answer is ‘Spade lugs’ and Screw type’Terminal’ strips. ’
Screw terminals allow ‘make - break’ electrical terminations that can be semi-permanently attached. Paralleled, yet modifiable.
Newbies start with 2 screws (DC) to the track and 2 screws (AC) for the switch machines. As you add switch machines and accessories, terminal strips are an easy way to simplify and re-arrange turnouts.
Spade lugs crimped on/soldered onto wire ends prevent accidental ‘whisker’ shorts (I do both) for Good solid resusable connections.
Example: A 6 position/double row terminal strip will connect both in/out power for track and 4 turnouts. You can increase from there
ATLAS makes ‘plug-together’ SPST and SPDT switches that mount on a panel without drilling.
Red horse- check your PM
Besides all that is mentioned about the use of terminal strips and separate power supplies, I find that powering building lights w/ those cheapo trainset packs allows you to control the lights. You can dim them very easily. The only thing is most of these power supplies will put out up to 16VDC. If using 12V bulbs you do not want to exceed 10 volts. Bulbs will last almost indefinetly if only powered to 90% of their rated voltage. Fabricating a stop @ 10V or using 18V bulbs solves this.
I have seen others using voltage limiting/ adding resistors and even controling individual or blocks of building lights w/ a variable resistor (dimmer). This gives greater control of city lighting so not all lights are the same intensity. Bulb positioning and interior baffling is important as well. See MisterBeasley’s storefronts for example in the DPM and usually WPFun threads. He does an excellent job of proper lighting effects.
I’ve always used Atlas Controllers. Yes they are costlier than buying toggle switches at your hardware store but they are simple to install and you can string as many together as you want. It is an easy way to give yourself on/off control for all your accesories independent of each other. I string mine into recessed panels on my fascia board and string all the turnout controls for the same location together with the Controllers. It’s a lazy man’s solution. I’d rather spend my money then my time.
