I have a FasTrack Christmas layout up and want to incorporate more lights and action but I’m not sure how to make my 154 flasher work. I won’t be able to use the 154 track contactor so I guess I’ll need complicated circuitry? Any ideas?
Roland
You could try the motion sensor to activate your 154 Flasher.
That, or you could attempt to make an insulated section out of fast track, but that is probally a difficult one to attempt.
Or you could buy a FasTrack insulated track section.
This is why I have refused to use FasTrack on my layout, the incompatability with older accessories and rolling stock, and the insane cost of the system. ($70 for a remote turnout.)
Perhaps this may have been of some help.
Speaking of complicated circuitry, here’s a posting of mine from out of the past:
Here’s my stab at the simplest possible electronic flasher. I just tacked one together; and it seems to work fine. I don’t have any way to show you a schematic; but I’ll try to describe the circuit. I will put Radio Shack stock numbers in parentheses.
Get a bridge rectifier (276-1152). Connect one of the two terminals on each side of the “+” marking to the accessory voltage of the transformer or to the center rail of the track. Connect the rectifier terminal on the other side of the “+” to an insulated running rail.
Connect the “+” terminal of the rectifier to the positive terminal of a 1000-microfarad capacitor (272-958) and the rectifier terminal opposite the “+” to the negative terminal of the capacitor. Call the positive capacitor terminal V+ and the negative V- from here on.
Connect the crossing-signal common, terminal 1, to V+. Connect the emitters, marked “E”, of two 2N3904 transistors (276-2016) to V-. Connect one crossing-signal lamp, terminal 2, to the collector, marked “C” of one transistor, the other lamp, terminal 3, to the collector of the other transistor.
Connect a 3300-ohm resistor (271-1328) between V+ and the base, marked “B”, of one transistor. Do the same with another resistor for the other transistor. Connect the positive terminal of another 1000-microfarad capacitor (272-958) to the collector of one transistor and the negative terminal to the base of the other transistor. Then do the same, switching the roles of the two transistors.
If the circuit flashes too slowly for you, decrease the capacitance of the last two capacitors described; increase capacitance to slow it down. An easy way to cut the speed in half is to put two more 1000-microfarad capacitors each in parallel with one of the existing capacitors.
The parts cost, according to my 2002 c
Roland,
There are a number of ways to do this; but none, I fear, is completely satisfactory.* The most straight-forward way would be to transition in a short section of tubular track between FasTrack sections so that you could use the old 154C controller. This might not look too hot. Or you might cut the FasTrack into isolated sections of one outside rail so that the ground circuit could be made-broken-remade rapidly by the wheels. Or you might be able to find flashing lamps (bulbs) that you could substitute in the signal and wire the whole thing as a simple on-off switch activated by the wheels, letting the lamps blink on their own.
Or, as you have said, you might invest in one of the more modern version which (I believe, without any actual experience) use some of that complicated circuitry that you mentioned. Or look at after-market manufacturers who advertize in the various magazines, including CTT and/or serve as sponsors of some of the forums.
Doubtless, with all of the talent on this forum, others will have more creative ideas. Edit: in fact, while I was hammering out these primitive solutions “lionelsoni” came up with a wizard idea. I defer.
- For that matter, the original was never completely satisfactory if you define it as a signal that anticupates the arrival of a train and then blinks each lamp alternately and evenly until the train has passed.
You could cut notches in the outer rail(with a Dremel cut-off wheel) approximating the length of the trigger sections on the 154C and drop soldered feeds out the bottom of the Fastrack for a neat job.
Or you do it a-la-Marx & build a paper-backed 2-piece copper trigger section formed to fit over the Fastrack outside rail with the wires soldered to the sections.
You could do a curve section really neat w/ the first solution.
Rob
…YES Rob…This is what I’m thinking!! Not that Bob’s Radio Shack fix wouldn’t be nice, but I’m looking for C H E A P and E A S Y !!! I could cut three notches about an inch apart and then cover the middle notch with a piece of electrical tape. Then solder the wires like you’ve described to the two separate isolated track sections to get the good ole fashioned blinking I’m used to!!
I’ve never dremeled FasTrack though…[sigh] at $3-$4 dollar a section that’s gonna be painful…
Roland
Roland, and anyone else with similar issues,
There is a forum on Yahoo that has been running for a year or so and which specializes in FasTrack foibles. I ran a search and found a couple of threads on this very subject. You have to join even to read the posts (“messages”) but at least it’s free. Some of the how-to articles are illustrated. If interested try
Roland: I’ve done something similar with the MTH crossing gates and FasTrack on my Christmas layout. To make it work, I got the accessory activator pack and wired the signal to the insulated rail.
I also extended it out a couple of lengths with just some additional straight lengths of FasTrack instead of buying the extenders they sell. The only difference between the two is that on the underside, they’ve removed the flat connector that bridges the two outer rails. Remove that on a regular piece of straight track and Wallah!, it’s an extender.
“Wallah”–Isn’t that half a town in Washington?..
Bob,
You’re exactly right. The member seems to have been confused by an orchestral stringed instrument somewhat larger than a violin, but played similarly on the shoulder.
No, no, no, no! Wallah was originally supposed to be part of that Beatles song - i.e., the title and lyric was supposed to be “I Am The Wallah”, but because Wallah was part of MI6’s encryption algorithm, the Beatles were asked to change it to something more mundane, such as “Walrus”.
Years ago I used the marx method by cutting two tabs out of a tin can, tape on the track a small screw held the tab and a wire to my old 027 switches to make them non derailing. The tabs were still working when I took that layout down.
DJ,
Glad to see you’re on board, there seem to be so few of you. But that was another thread…
MI6, eh? If you say so. Your word is your Bond, as the saying goes.
Your reply has me shaken.
Not stirred?
If only Lionel had made three more 3/4-inch-gauge locomotives…
BF and DJ, thanks for the tips…the yahoo forum sounds like a decent resource. The tip for a FasTrack extender is a good one; sure beats trying to insulate an outer rail on a section of tubular!
The rest of this thread has drifted WAY off topic!!! You boys are out there!
Roland
Well, it was stirring.
Roland- what I did for my switches would also operate your 154 without cutting your track.
James, I think you’re right…I haven’t “cut” anything yet…I may experiment with your idea…I trying to think of the best source or a thin, preferably solderable, conductive metal to use…
Roland