How do I safely clean and lubricate old Lionel trains that have been idle since 1950’s. Inherited train set from Father in law and trying to get them going for my wife and Grand-daughter by Christmas
Well, the specifics will depend upon the exact model number (the number on the cab usually is the one). Generally, for locomotives, you should (1) take the shell (the body of the locomotive) off, (2) remove the top of the motor itself, (3) not loose the brushes (small pieces of copper-graphite with springs on them) like I always do, (4) clean the commutator (a copper piece on the motor armature), (5), clean out any gears or the like, (6) lube anything that contacts something else except the center rail pickup rollers and the commutator (do lubricate the armature where it contacts the brushplate, just not where the commutator contacts the brushes), (7), spray electrical contact cleaner into the reverse unit (it should have a solenoid on it), (8) wait a few minutes (so that you don’t set the locomotive on fire), and (9) put everything back together. After that you can try test-running the locomotive. If the locomotive has a tender with pickup rollers on it, then it has a whistle in it. Treat the whistle motor pretty much the same as the locomotive internals.
Of course, the locomotive will not run on its own, it needs track and power. For the track, simply remove any oxidization and dirt on (primarily) the rail tops. Ensure that the center rail is completely insulated from the outer rails. For power, you need the transformer. If the cord’s insulation is deteriorated–especially if wire is exposed–do NOT plug in the transformer. If you feel comfortable working with 120VAC, then you can replace the cord, but if not, then a new transformer will be easy enough to come by (don’t throw away the old one though–keep it so that eventually someone can repair it). A good starter transformer is a Lionel type 1033–they can be found for a reasonable price, in fully functional condition, on Ebay quite frequently. Whether you use the original transformer or a new one, if you don’t have one already, get yourself a good multimeter that measures AC. Measure the outputs on the transformer that are in some way labeled as being for the train (you’ll need to look up the specifics for your model). They should be within one or two volts of voltage denoted on the transformer yourself. Provided that the transformer passes the safety test (the cord is fine, the circuit breaker works, and any metal parts on the case have no continuity with either prong on the plug), it should be suitable.
Freight and passenger cars should not be ignored either, ensure that the axles are clean and put a drop of lubricant on the ends of the axles. Speaking of which, for the lubricant itself, you should use either mineral oil, or, if you have it, light oil and plastic-safe grease.
There are a few more details, but most of them depend on specific models. If you can post some photos, that would be quite handy.
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Here’s an article I hope you find helpful: Tune up your toy train equipment - Trains
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Welcome aboard Joe63! 
Welcome to the Forum Joe63!
There’s some good advice from Engine_1988 but I have to respectfully disagree with him on one thing, do NOT take the locomotive or motor apart unless you really know what you’re doing. Stick to what the article linked by Rene tells you to do, it’s typically all you need to do to wake up a locomotive that’s been sleeping for a long time.
Egnine_1988’s advice on track and transformer is spot-on. For track cleaning a Scotch-Brite pad is more than adequate, get a shine on the top of the rails and then give them a wipe-down with isopropyl alcohol.
And enjoy that little time traveler, it’ll be more fun than you know!
PS: This video from the very personable Warren Muzak shows what’s involved in a tear-down of a typical Post-War Lionel, not something you should try unless you really need to. Most times fresh lube on the moving parts is sufficient.
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Thank you–I can see where you’re coming from with the motor disassembly. I suppose that it all depends upon how mechanically-minded Joe63 is.
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Very helpful
Thanks
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Engine_1988 gave you some great advice. I would not trust 1950s era wire insulation especially on a transformer. Sometimes an old engine just needs oil on the axles and grease on the gears. Sometimes it needs more than that. If you plan to take the engine apart, I would recommend purchasing the Greenberg’s Repair and Operating manual if you have an old Lionel.
I was fortunate to obtain a Lionel F3 2343 from a friend of my grandmother. It is a good thing that I took the shell off and inspected all of the parts before I ran it. The worm gears were packed with dried out grease and they would not budge. I scraped and picked all of the dried soap out of the gears until everything was clean. I also replaced the brushes in the motors and the engine runs like new.
Enjoy your vintage find. You will probably be shopping for more.
It doesn’t even have to be a vintage Lionel. At the last York show I attended I bought a Williams Alco FA set that was 20 years old and still new in the box, unopened and unrun.
I put it on the track and it didn’t move. Long story short the grease on the motor gears had coagulated and jammed up the works. Cleaned and re-lubed and no problems after that.
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I do have a lot of Williams engines and they are great runners. I have noticed large lumps of grease on the gears and fortunately the grease was still soft and there were no issues. Those were newer engines. Older engines can have dried out lube. I guess it is always best to check the axles and gears before running any engine that is 20+ years old.
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Why, thank you!