I am finally finishing my grain structures, but I have three questions. First, the water slide decals, how do I get them to stick good? Second, I already weathered and sealed my structures without thinking about it, is this a problem? And lastly, How do I get rid of the shine? Thanks, Mike
The surface for decals should be smooth and glossy. A setting solution is needed to get good adhesion. I use Walthers Solvaset but others should work as well.
Cut out the decal as close to the image as possible. Slide them into the water for a short time to allow the backing paper to get wet. Remove the decal and set it aside for a few minutes. When the decal is loose on the backing paper it is ready to apply.
Add some diluted setting solution to the area where the decal is going. Slide the decal off the backing paper and quickly get it into position. Add more setting solution and let it work. The decal is going to wrinkle up but DON’T touch it. Go away for an hour or so and let the decal dry. When the decal is dry check for any areas where it hasn’t stuck. Poke some small holes using a small pin and add more setting solution to that area and let it dry. After the decal is dry and completely attached to the model spray it with Testors Dullcote or some other flat finish.
Forgot to mention. Be sure your paints are compatable. Enamel reacts to lacquer so don’t apply lacquer over enamel.
Floquil over Scalecoat2 will result in a paint fight for example.
I am having to set them on grain bins…not really the smoothest thing. Is that ok? Mike
The shinier, glossier the surface, the better. Decals can be applied over rivets, ribs, corrugations, grooves, etc. so long as the surface is shiny/glossy. If it is dull (ie. flat paint or some form of dull cote) adhesion will be problematic. From your description, this may be the case. You could either overspray it with some gloss coat, apply the decals, then re-spray with a dull cote or you can give it a try as si and see what happens.
Good luck.
I have them on there, they are holding their own weight and but if I rub them good they fall off but, I havnt put a decal setter on them…How do I dull them down? They are so shiny. Mike
I’m gonna assume you mean the decal \s themselves? First go ahead and brush on a setting solution, either the above solvaset or Microset with a gentle brush. You may need to coax the decal back into place as you brush it. Let that dry for about 15 minutes to a half an hour, and go out to buy a rattlecan of Dullcote. That will take the shine out and further lock in the decal.
You need to apply decals to a glossy surface. What you have done isn’t going to work well.
Strip the paint off, re-paint with gloss, then apply decals. Then Dullcote. THEN weathering.
Ok, I did my own idea here, I figure I have nothing to lose, I found that this works really good. I first painted a small area the size of the decal of Mirco Coat Flat. Then I slid the decal then I coated it on top with Mirco Coat Flat. I cut close so there was no clear stuff on the edge. It sank it down nice on the structure. Mike
Decals stick enthusiastically to nearly any surface. Gloss paint, flat paint, raw plastic, even metal. Not to worry about stick. The backing paper side of decals has its own effective stickum, no extra adhesive of any kind is needed. I routinely apply decals to rolling stock painted in red auto primer, which is VERY flat. I know the common wisdom is to put decals on gloss paint, but I have excellent results putting them on flat paint.
Trimming the decal as close as possible is good, rounding the corners helps avoid corner crinkle up. Wet them just enough to loosen them, extra soak time starts dissolving the decal. On the other hand, soak them long enough to come freely, otherwise then may tear. Try to slide them off the backing paper flat, without letting them curl up or twist themselves in knots. I use a common pin to tease the decal into just the right place. Wet decals stick to fingers so I avoid touching them while wet.
If necessary blot up excess water with a kleenex to prevent small decals from floating away from their proper places. Get any air bubbles out either by working the bubble to the edge or puncturing them with a needle. After the decal is in exactly the right place, and is sorta partly dry, but still moist, I apply decal setting solution. I have never used anything except Solvaset. YMMV. The setting solution softens the decal film and lets it settle into cracks, crevasses, joints between wood boards, and over rivets. After applying the setting solution the decal will be too soft to allow any repositioning, it will tear if you try. So make sure the decal is in the right place, and don’t apply too much setting solution. If you do, the decal may float away from position and you can’t get it back without tearing it. The setting solution may crinkle the decal but wait and it will dry and flatten out.
Last step, make the decal film invisible.&nb
I’ve been decaling several freight cars myself recently and am starting to get fairly proficient at it. Here’s what I’ve picked up:
The idea that you need to apply only to glossy surfaces just doesn’t bear out in practice. I painted my cars mostly with flat black spray paint from a rattle can bought at a big box retailer. The decals without exception adhered just fine. No problem at all. The main concern is that the surface is clean prior to application.
You definitely want to go to your LHS and get some decal setting solution. I spent (I think) three bucks on a bottle of Solvaset big enough to last me three lifetimes. It really does work.
I tried putting a little setting solution on the model before applying the decal and wouldn’t recommend it unless your hand is steadier than a neurosurgeon’s. Once the decal makes initial contact with the solution, surface tension kicks in and sucks the decal right onto the model, and never in exactly the right place. You’re then left racing to slide the decal into place before the decal film starts giving way.
Once the decal is on the model, sparingly apply setting solution on top and at the edges of the decal. Capillary action will draw the solution from the edges underneath it. Too much solution will float the decal off the surface - not a tragedy in itself because it will still dry, but your carefully placed decal may not end up precisely where you first put it. Just trust me on this one.
Once you get the solution applied, set the model aside, go do something else and let it weave its magic. Don’t mess with it.
When dry, the decal really does settle over irregularities like rivet detail, and makes you say, “Wow, that’s cool.”
Go get some matte finish spray as well. That shine will go away right now.
Good luck, and have fun.