I just wanted to know how people think of 022 switches and if they have problems with derailments.
Grayson
Personally I haven’t had any problems with my switches, but several other people report trouble with derailments, plus the added issue of not being able to go through them slowly because of closely spaced pickup rollers.
Hello,
O22 are very reliable once tuned up and adjusted properly. their one downside and it can be a big one, is that they are a bit rough to pass through. Most steamers seem to bang and shake a bit going through them especially at higher speeds. Diesels generally go through pretty smooth.
To me the noise and shake are part of the postar antique toy train feel so it’s a non issue. Plus i love operating equipment that’s 50 plus years old. So it depends are where you’re coming from. If you’re a pure operator who wants smooth peformance and you run mostly new stuff these may not be for you. Although I should add that just about all of my new stuff (that’s not a lot too) can negotiate these fine. The docksider and the Beep are the exception, as they lose power at lower speeds.
HOpe this helps,
Mike S.
So the only problems is when your running slow?
Magicman,
Yes, when operating some modern engnes like the above mentioned. With postwar it doesn’t matter. All of my PW engines will go through at slower speeds (slow for postwar engines anyway).
They are great switches. Though they do not match the height of the track they connect to.
LOL, I can recall that back to when you said “the 10 reasons to use Fastack” on my “Compare the disadvantages and advantages of tubular track”. [;)][:D][:D]
Grayson
Hmmm…I have 12 …“022” switches in operation on my layout. I use them with “0” guage track. The height matches perfectly, where they are joined together.
Chuck
I have 10 of these switches on my layout all controlled by remote and have had a problem with only one of them. Took it apart and cleaned it up and it works great. I run both PW and a couple of new engines.
they should definitely match the height. Perhaps you have some slightly warped bakelite switch bases or tubes that need to be reseated back down on the switchbase. I have 10 running on my layout and the height matches.
Mike S.
Personally unless I was doing a true PW layout I’d avoid them. They can be very bumpy to cross and somewhat unreliable. I have swapped all mine out for Ross as much as I can. I have one left that I cringe whenever anything rolls over it especially in reverse. I have hi-balled it through my Ross switches without an incident. Can’t say that 'bout the O22s. And the O72s are worse especially the newer models. They are very bumpy and uneven. Just my observations.
I haven’t had any problems with my O-27 or Traditional O-31 engines and cars going through the O22 switches in either direction. However…
Recent O22 switches may have design/quality control issues. There was a thread a while ago talking about how the contacts on the switch plate motors are too thin and wear through/burn away over time as the switch motor flips back and forth.
I received an order of O22 switches several months ago and more than half of my switches had cracks in the base plates. This was a large enough order than one of the boxes was the larger Lionel factory box with the individual switch boxes packed in it. The larger box from the factory did not appear to have been opened until I opened it. The box arrived in good shape with no shipping damage, so the cracked plates weren’t from the boxes being abused.
Remember that these products may come to the US by container ship across the Pacific. So it is possible they leave the factory in good shape, but take a beating during the crossing.
I looked at other switch alternaltives, but because of the degree of the curves used in the switches, the other brands caused problems with my layout design in the space I had available. I also didn’t like the look of mixing track types. The cost of the O22 switches was much less given the number of switches I purchased.
I elected to keep my switches and repair them myself rather than return them or go through Lionel warranty service.
I fixed the cracked baseplates using one of the new super glues and some clamps. The repairs have worked very well.
I also disassembled the switch motors and soldered thicker brass plates (which I cut to size) over the thin foil used as the contacts. So far no problems.
Some may say this isn’t the “right” solution, but it was for me at this time. It gave me the look I wanted at a price I could afford.
The only issue I have come across with the original 022 switches is that they need a good cleaning inside every now & then, no derailments. The original 022’s have a plug/in adapter that lets you put up to 20 volts A.C. to the switch for quick solenoid operation at slow speeds. Can’t put over 14 volts to the new O gauge switches as the solenoid may start to burn at over 14 volts, I refer to the new switches by Lionel by the Lionel stock number(6-*****) and not the style number as it keeps down confusion.
The new Lionel O gauge tubular switches are totally lacking any quality! Refering to Lionel tubular switches made in the past 16 years. I have replaced mine with Gargraves switches.
Lee F.