I have been using the same “barely holds together” 40 watt pencil iron for a long time and its long overdue for replacement. I am considering getting one of the butane powered soldering irons so that I can get a nice range of heat for rails, contacts, and bus wires. I also like the idea of not having a cord that can be a pain at best and dangerous at worst when using the iron at the layout.
What are peoples experiences with these? I see prices on weller units ranging from $20 to $60. I have done a lot of soldering but never used one and have no idea what the drawbacks might be.
I have one and it IS handy to have. However, the heat generated by it is way too hot for much of any soldering around the layout - it will melt plastic and catch wood on fire in short order !!!
If you regularly need to solder heavy stuff, they’re great. I’ve used mine to repair some copper plumbing and even yesterday, I used it to solder a new connector on the battery cable of my tractor. For modeling, unless you regularly solder heavy brass parts, you’re better off with an iron. I use a 15 / 30 watt iron for everything including soldering all my 14 gauge bus wire and it works fine.
One of the one I saw advertised (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00954055000P) said that it could have its heat setting to be the equivelent of 10-60 watts depending on need. Is yours like that and just doesnt dial down as advertised? That was a worry for me…
Hi Chris, I use several different soldering irons, anything from the standard 100 watt Weller “pistol” type soldering iron, to a manually contolled soldering station, which also includes a couple of the “pencil” type irons you descibe.
But I do have a couple of “butane” irons I use as well, but “NOT” for any fine track work.
I have one made by “SOLDER IT” which is a very nice butane unit which the temperature can be controlled, comes with several accessories, and comes in a plastic workcase with a snap down lid. As I also work on both RC airplanes, and also full scale vintage aircraft, where different soldering irons come in handy. The only advantage of my “Solder-It” butane unit is that there is no electrical cord to bother with and when working on airplanes, I don’t need an electrical outlet handy.
I work in HO scale, and my Weller pistol grip unit at 100 watts is what I use the most for trackwork.
For HO or N scale track work, a Weller pistol type is handy. Joe Fugate in one of his videos recommends such a unit. Let it heat up for about 10 seconds, touch it to your workpiece for no more than 5 seconds, then pull it away, doing such work as soldering track joints.
I ONLY ever solder on the OUTSIDE of my track joints, avoiding any problems with wheel flanges which might come in contact with a bad solder joint .
But I would RECOMMEND a good WELLER pistol grip type iron with several different tips, which usually come with such a unit.Usually Sears sells them in a unit with a plastic tool case it usually comes in along with several different tips.Also check some good hardware stores -ACE-etc.
Also keep an old wet rag handy to wipe the soldering tip off to help keep it clean while you work.
No, mine’s not adjustable … click the starter and it’s going. I guess the thing that would concern me is the fact it’s still an open flame. Get an iron near some dry scenery material or ANYthing combustable, no problem … get an open flame near the same stuff and it will be an entirely different story.
Personally, I wouldn’t use a torch (of any size) for anything on or near my layout - held in a vice or some other non-flammable surface, sure. If you’re comfortable with it, you might want to swing by the fire extinguisher dept. and pick yourself up a little something extra. [;)]
This summer we had a sound technician soder up over fifty mic leads (three wires each, three ends on each lead)as time and good soder joints are a must in sound. He used a butane sodering iron as its portability sodering up floor drops in the stage, stage snake junction box, snake mic leads at the mixer. The iron had exceptionaly fast heat, inclosed lighting striker and he did state the used all the brands, and most were not to his standards for professional work. I forget the brand, but he stated it was over $120 and worth every cent to him, he used it for three or more hours with no refill. He liked it so much he had a backup in his tool bag and another in the box out in the truck. If your realy interested I will call hime long distance to find out the brand…John
Thanks for the feedback. I am more comfortable with a pencil style iron then a pistol grip. THis comes from a number years of working in electronics after I got out of the air force. I will stick with an electric unit for now I think. I hadnt reallized they used an open flame… I thought the flame was internal to heat the element.
For track work and electronics most of the butane jobs are too heavy. One drawback is the catalytic converter unit on the working end of the weller unit I have. I’ve burnt myself a couple times and its sometimes hard on the scenery and structures when you’re working on the layout. The 100 watt pistol grip the guys are describing are the way to go.
Where the butane units really shine is in the R/C car and plane hobbies where you might need to do soldering in the field.Also the little torch feature is really nice for soldering heavier brass parts together in the larger scales.
This is the reason I don’t use my butane unit on my layout, plus it takes it a lot longer to cool off, and you don’t want a hi heat source near combustible scenery, or any plastic structures.
For other work in my workshop, soldering copper, or other things together, it’s just the tool for the job.
I also have another small butane unit which is like a small propane torch , actually using a flame to heat the work, great for soldering piano wire landing gear for airplanes, or heavy wiring together.
no need… thanks for the feedback though… I am mostly looking for general info about how they work with MRR stuff. Sounds like they are great for soldering feeders to bus lines but not so great for touchy work like putting feeders on rails.
Chris
The “Solder-It” butane unit I have does use an internal flame to heat the unit, along with various tips.And I think I payed quite a bit for it, bought it at the annual Oshkosh Wisconsin Air Show several years ago from one of the vendors there, but bought it at a “show price”.
I am very pleased with it, and use it often.
Despite my claim I would prefer a pencil type iron I did end up buying the 100 watt craftsman pistol type. I got an open box at 20% off. I figure at least it won’t be heated unless I pull the trigger. I was dissapointed by the other options at the store.
I still plan to replace the pencil soldering iron I use at my work bench but I was not pleased by the offerings at either sears or radio shack in that regard. I will hit home depot later but I think I will try to limp by with what I have until I can get to a surplus /salvage store and maybe find a real solder station being liquidated.
I have a butane powered torch that I have used to liquify brass and aluminum - it will generate temps of 2200 to 2300 degrees F. There is a soldering tip supplied with the unit but I have never used it and would be extremely cautious if I did!!!