I’ve been thinking of getting an original Lionel 2343 Super Chief AA (power and dummy) set when I eventually have the money, and I was wondering what kind of power would be needed to run them? The best I’ve got now is a 50 watt 13 volt Marx transformer, and I’ve also got a 25W 15V American Flyer transformer (which I suspect is more powerful than the 25W label, since it runs my Lionel 254 without a problem). Are these strong enough, or will I need something a little bigger?
My grandpa used to have a 2343 set along with a KW transformer back in the 50s, but he sold it to a hobby store in exchange for whatever HO scale engine my dad wanted for his 10th birthday. Now that I’ve been getting some old O gauge stuff up and running, I’d like to eventually have another one of those Super Chief sets to run and display.[:)]
You might consider getting a 2243 set instead. That’s a single-vertical-motor A unit and a dummy B unit. They are the first of Lionel’s definitive vertical-motor design and are quieter and smoother than the horizontal motors and even other later vertical motors. I have several, including my first Lionel locomotive, which I ran with a small Marx transformer back in 1955, pulling four 2400-series lighted cars, with no problems.
I’ve looked at the 2243, but the one I really want is the 2343. I like the detail of the body and the silver trucks better, as well as the dual motors. It’s also the set my grandpa had, and I’ve been trying to rebuild most of his old collection the way it was.[:)] I know from a lot of my HO stuff that the motor spur gear transfer design is noisier, but I don’t really mind the noise.
My Marx 999 and American Flyer Royal Blue both draw 3 to 4 amps under load, and the Marx transformer handles them well, so I’m guessing it might be powerful enough. But I want to make sure anyway so that if I’m wrong, I won’t accidentally blow up my transformer.[:)]
If you’re planning on spending that kind of money on the locomotive, I can’t see why you won’t spend $50-60 for a nice used Lionel KW, you’ll have plenty of power with one of those.
A kw or at least a 1033. I don’t think those little transformers are going to like that 2 motor engine. Lionel also made a couple of nice transformers larger than the 1033 that are not very expensive.
I have the 2243 F-3 A-B single vertical motor. Runs really nice. Needs paint bad so I tried to sell it. I am glad I still have it and will keep it. Thanks Bob Nelson for convincing me to keep it.
Dennis, if you should ever sell it, it might help to know that, all else being equal, the dummy B unit (2243C) is worth as much as or more than the A unit. They are the only B units that match the much later 2383 A-A set and are in demand for stretching those to A-B-B-A.
sir james I, I just looked at used 1033 transformers, and it looks like I can get one for a good price (about 1/4 as much as a KW). My Lionel 254 and passenger cars should like the 90W better too, and that much power should be more than enough for my needs. Thanks for the suggestion![:D]
Although the 1033 is a very nice transformer, consider the RW. They are 110W, and they are easier to work on than the 1033 IMHO. I restored two of them, and replacing parts such as the cord, breaker, and rectifier were much easier than on 1033s. RWs go for about the same price as the 1033s.
Ever try changing a breaker in a 1033? The rectifier was difficult enough to change, but was easier than attempting the riveted breaker. I scrapped the one with the bad breaker since they aren’t worth much anyway. Wasn’t worth my time either.
Changing the breaker in RWs is easy since it is screwed to the base and easy to get at for replacement. The rectifier is easier to replace as well since there is room to get at the back to deal with the pin and spacers.
I simply ripped the rectifier out and replaced it with a 6A diode, much more reliable. The breaker in the one that needed it was simply retrofitted with a 6A mini breaker intended for automotive use.
I thought about an automotive breaker, but I didn’t think there was enough room inside the case. Where did you put it?
Darth,
As far as power draw for 2343s, that number can vary based on several factors. For 2343s that have been cleaned and lubed, I’d guess 4-5 amps. Be sure you go through both motors and trucks. Servicing these F3s isn’t that much different from any other locomotive, but it can be tedious. The main thing to remember is to mark the driveshaft bearings before they are removed so that they go back in correctly.
The breaker I used for the one that needed it was one of the small ones that plug in with the blades like modern automotive fuses. I just stuck it down near where the old breaker was, fits fine. There’s lots of room in the case, a bigger one would fit near the rectifier area.
Thanks for the additional responses. I’ll also look at the RW when the time comes. I’ll more than likely find one in full working condition so I don’t have to repair it, and which type I get will depend on what price I can get them for.
green97probe, I think I’ll be able to handle the servicing pretty well. I’ve gotten to be pretty good at making things work like new, or sometimes even better than new.[:D]
I don’t plan to spend much more than $25 for a good transformer. My Marx 50W (which is in great condition) only cost me $12, and I don’t want to spend $50 or $100 on something just to make one train work. I’m not in need of multiple train control either. All I need is something to give everything on one track enough power to move.[:)]
Hmm you want a nice set of F3s but you don’t want to spend $50. for a transformer to run them with. I guess there’s nothing else we can do for you then.