I’m wondering what the best method is to darken or blacken locomotive wheels that are shiny nickel (or whatever that metal is). I tried a chemical product called “Blackenit” or something like that. I got colors ran from brown to green and electical conductivity was horrible. Even some spots are rusting. Makes a great derelict but lousy running!
I saw a recommendation for a product called Neolube, I think, which is actually a graphite based lubricant which doesn’t sound like a good idea on wheels…
All I can think of is use an airbrush (which I don’t have) exactly face on to the driver to paint the wheel, tire and a little of the flange without getting it on the tread.
Actually, Neolube is pretty amazing stuff: http://www.p-b-l.com/pbl2000/Neolube.html. You might want to consider it before using an airbrush. OTOH, if you do use paint (airbrush or not), just cut some thin masking and mask the wheel treads to prevent getting paint on the treads. Even if you do, thinner (Floquil’s Diosol, etc.) can be used to remove paint from the tread.
Blacken-it needs to be washed off and neutralized with water within a few minutes of application. You also have to make sure the the surface you’re applying it to is clean and dry. I had a bottle in a box with a cast metal Bowser tender. Apparently the cap was not screwed on tight enough and it caused some kind of chemical reaction with the metal (it sure didn’t blacken it) and now I have a tender that is ruined. Blacken-it also seems to work best on brass and nickel silver. It doesn’t seem to work well at all on the zinc alloy (called Zamac) cast metal they used to use in steam kits.
I’ve replaced my now empty container of Blacken-it and will be experimenting.
Blacken-it may not be strong enough to do more than take some of the brightness off. Gun bluing works quite a bit better. Both need multiple applications with a Q-tip, and both also need to be THOROUGHLY washed off, which is best accomplished by taking the wheels off the loco. Both chemical blackeners also give the metal a little texture so that paint does stick better afterwards.
Being a certified knuckle dragging Neandertal in such situations, I’ve just used the appropriate paint – applied with a brush and a lot of patience – and have no problems. Of course, I am careful to clean the treads after painting wheels. A plastic scrubbing pad (swiped from the kitchen) does a nice job but avoid those with soap in them.
Taking everything apart is going to be a lot of work.I’ve used Blacken-It on the running gear with good results,but that was on a couple of Bowser kits,before assembly.I first lightly sanded the parts before submerging them into the blacken-it,then rinse well.
Air brushing while the wheels are running has become my favorite method and any chips are easy to touch up afterwards.If you plan on staying in the hobby,a airbrush is a good investment
Blacken-it don’t work on the Lionel Challenger’s rods, incase anyone wants to know. I think they’re plated with some slick crap that won’t let the metal darken.
I tried Neo-lube on it. Looks great, but it seems to come off to easy. And I don’t see any way around this.
Spencer–I’ve chemically blackened the rods and wheels of an IHC mikado once. Afterwards she could move 42 cars up and down slight grades. And that ain’t no BS neither. Like having built in traction tires.
Gun blue won’t hurt plastic; it’s a salt just like Blacken-it. And salts are corrosive as the devil over time if you don’t get it all off. They attract mositure and can cause other bad things. BTW, Blacken-it works great on the early BLI Class A with the light wheels.
Yes Aggro, it usually does improve traction. Works great for most brass locos. Sometimes it looks like it isn’t going to work but continued application with a Q-tip will usually get thru. Burni***he shiny stuff first with a wire brush and it will take it instantly.
I have tried to blacken some older bachman rolling stock wheels that appear to be nickel/silver with birchwood casey - perma blue. The silver/whatever was plated on and was desolved by the perma blue leaving what appeared to be blackened wheels. this washed off under soapy water leaving what looked like etched brass which could be re blackened but would once agin wash off I havent tried blackenit yet but it appears i will wave to try neo lube, or paint to darken these wheels i wouldent mind hearing from someone else who has solved this problem. Also I discovered that the axles corroded enough that you could no longer guage the wheels, so make sure your wheels are in guage before you try blackening your wheelsets. Mike
try to use rubber glue to cover the vg and spray the wheels black the glue will come right off and the valves will still shine like new
also the rubber works good for the contacs on the frame
I like to spray decal paper and use a strip in side the running gear
good like I bet the prodject will look awsome
B-