Why is it so hard to grow grass in the front yard, but this invasive weed seems to want to move to the garden RR area?
If I don’t want to use chemicals, can I simply build up a layer at least 2 inches of mulch to smother it?
Your ideas are most welcomed!
Do what we do out here in the west - set fire to it!!! :-} Oh, you probably don’t want to burn off the rest of your layout and scenery at the same time. Never mind.
There were about 90 acres merrily burning about 12 miles north of me when I went to bed last night, the result of another “controlled burn”, a governmental oxymoron. No property damage or injuries but it looks like it is going to be a smoky summer.
I tried mulching out grass one year but all it seemed to do was keep the grass cool and moist and allow it to grow better roots. Sometimes a light and judicious use of herbicides is the best remedy. If you catch it early you won’t have to use as much. Otherwise, the only thing to do is keep pulling it or learn to live with it and trim often.
Dan,
Hadn’t thought of that. I’ve got a propane torch. But the roots will still be intact and might they not send up new shoots?
Burning slows it down but unfortunately the only thing I know of that is permanent, short of hand pulling it out of the ground, is herbicides.
Here in the UK we have ‘weed control fabric’. This is basically water permiable plastic sheeting that you put on top of the weeded area and cover with gravel or soil.
Another trick is to cover the area with old carpet tiles -after three weeks everything under it is dead from the dark!!!
regards
ralph
Ralph,
Was hoping the mulch would do the trick. Perhaps some plastic bags. It really kills it? I thought it just goes dormant. Grass is really nasty stuff.
Dan,
If herbicides are used, wouldn’t they create a toxic area where other desired growth would not be able to grow.
Here’s an example: I’ve got some Sedum growing that are expanding outward so I use herbicides to kill the grass. When the sedums reach the spot where the grass was killed, they become victims.
Or, does the herbicide kill the grass then quickly dissipate?
Can you recommend a brand?
Thanks!
There is a version of Round Up that is designed for grass. It does a pretty good job and the chemicals usually dissipate in a couple of weeks. You could try using plastic bags but I’m not sure how long they would need to stay down. Also, if you do use bags, use the dark trashcan bags. They filter out all light. No light, no photosynthesis, no plant growth. BUT, this may only be a stopgap as whatever grass you don’t cover will quickly make it’s way back into the barren area once the bag is removed. Grass sends out runners under the soil. It’s extremely hardy stuff. If it’s at all practical, you may want to create some sort of physical barricade using edging once you’ve eradicated the grass from tha area you are working with. Good luck to you.
Mark
Hi FG&J
Try covering the grass completely with several layers of news paper
wet it down to stop it blowing around.
then cover news paper with two layers of corugated carboard cartons.
thoroughly soak them to stop them blowing around
Then cover the lot with a minimum of 4" of mulch acording to the Aus gardening books, mulch should be 4" thick or it doesn’t retard weeds very well.
The paper and card will stay intact long enough to kill the grass with darkness.
The 4" of mulch should prevent regrowth the whole lot will of course improve the soil over time but keep topping up the mulch to 4" if it is an organic mulch.
regards John
The best way to do it is in the Fall cover the area you want dead with black plastic sheeting. Leave it on there all Winter and the following Summer. The next fall you can prep your soil for a spring planting. This way kills anything, roots, shoots and seeds deader than a doornail. It completely sterilizes the soil and makes it very hard for unauthorized growth to get started. I do this quite often and it works, trust me. It’s eco friendly and free.
Weed barrier is a dubious venture at best. I’ve only been moderately successful using it. I found that the paper type of weed block works better than the mesh, less grip for new weed roots. Used with a topping of mulch seems to work best.
The only other way I found that works is to use kerosene or diesel fuel. I know this is not EPA approved, but one treatment lasts for years whereas constant saturation during one season with “friendly” chemicals doesn’t make sense to me.
Burning will only encourage new growth, not the result you want.
John Busby’s suggestion will work also, but may cause problems if you want to plant something in that area.
Round Up
Only thing that works…100%
It doesnt remain free in the soil, it will bind chemically with the soil becoming inert, however it will be absorbed by plants and interupts the plant from root to leaf, killing them. My usual proceedure is spray, being carefull or using a cardboard shield to prevent spraying plants I dont want to get rid of, wait a day or two, then use the weed wacker or pulling them. This allows the round up to remain in any root systems.
The only thing is to keep pets away from the plants untill the spray completely dries up on the plant or soil, after it dries its OK for pets to be in the area. ALways best to read the instructions on this stuff, I’d be under a jungle of weeds with out it.
Fire does not stop growth, but actually promotes it by creating a***hat acts as a fertilizer, and allowing room for new shoots to sprout with the first hint of moisture.
Here in Arizona grass is not as much of a problem as tumbleweeds and native plants that all have stickers. A thorough soaking with Roundup or Ortho Weed and Grass Killer is the only way I have found to stop growth.
Thanks; I think I will try the best ideas from the above sort of like this:
This fall, put a rubber block edge around the quaranteen area.
Then spray grass with Roundup
Then cover the area with bags of mulch
This will serve several purposes.
The edging will hopefully prevent grass root feeders from spreading.
The Roundup will kill the grass
The bags of mulch will additionally suffocate the grass and prevent the beagle from getting contaminated. Also, the bags of mulch will be ready for next spring and will not blow away.
Oh, did I mention that I HATE grass!
Hi Dave,
Give this a try, mix 1 pound of ROCK SALT in 5 Gallons on HOT WATER and mix until the salt is diluted then spray on the unwanted grass or weeds. It will take a few day for the grass and weeds to wilt and die. I have seen this work but it is not a permanent solution for the problem and will have to be reapplied every few months depending on local conditions. The only down side is that the worms will have a HIGH B/P.
Good luck
Ron
I could loan you my dog. His piddle will kill grass for keeps in about 36 hours. The poor critter never did learn about using a tree…
SandyR
david,
for erosion control, we used to cover the landscape with old dead carpet.
an interesting side effect was nothing would grow underneath it.
herbicides, i haven’t fooled with for thirty years, but they used to be leaf specific (broadleaf or narrow), and would dissipate shortly after use. unless they harmed ozone or something, they might still be available. a lot of stuff we’re forced to use these days, either doesn’t work or has undesirable side effects.
David;
“Round Up” will not have a lasting effect on the ground. Spray in on the foliage you want to kill and two days later use your propane torch to burn it off. Round Up kills from the top down, if you do not kill the roots with the first spray, hit it again a week later. It will decay out in about a week and leaves no residual chemicals to harm later plants.
If you are still not wanting to use chemicals, you can do like I do when spraying around the fish pond. Simply to avoid getting any over spray into the pond, we use red vinegar/dish soap. One half cup 'Dawn" liquid dish soap to one gallon of red vinegar. Spray on the leaves and stems every third day for two weeks. DO NOT soak the ground as that will affect other plants in the area.
Dig it up, or herbacides.
Purchased Roundup today; but all day raining so I’ll wait a bit and then apply. I think my worst fear with grass would be if it intermingles with the roots of sedum, and the other plants and mini trees in my rock garden. Then, it gets really nasty. Trying to nip this in the bud early.
Appreciate all of your comments. I’m re-reading all and may try some other things as well like the carpet, newspapers, etc etc…