Hello,
Recently I got a Walthers Cornerstone brick mission-style Santa Fe depot kit. It’s molded with brick wall effects, but the slits between the bricks are too small for my brushes to paint the cement color. Then I tried to paint the cement color first and then apply the wall color, but it didn’t work out well either.
Does anyone here have a good idea on how to create a realistic wall brick with these molded kits?
Thanks.
I usually first spray with a brick color like red-brown primer. When that’s dry, I rub on drywall compound and rub most of it off, leaving the cracks full but the bricks uncovered.
I tried this and ended up having both layers rubbed off…
Maybe you rubbed to hard. Think of it as grouting tile. You want the joint filled, but the tile exposed, so let the joint filler set a while, and slowly start removing the excess.
Mike.
I paint the brick and then make a wash the color of the mortar I want, mix alcohol into that wash and brush it onto your brick (laying flat). The wash will settle into the mortar lines.
It will lighten the brick color some.
I paint the entire wall black first. I then spray paint the brick color at an angle. As if the wall were upright I want the angle from above or pointing down. This leaves a nice shadow line at the mortar joints without trying to paint each line or using some sort of wash.
I’m thinking, maybe, You didn’t allow the paint to cure, overnite at least. And you ued way too mutch forcre/pressure when wipeing.
I’ve used both the white paint wash, and the wall joint compound. Got good resulits either way. You do need to ‘‘play’’ with it ,to get the hang of it.
If useing water based products,just wash it off,start over
Sounds to me as if the paint wasn’t fully-cured/dry - patience is a useful virtue in this hobby.
There’s a semi “how-to” starting HERE at the large factory and the first photo of Tucketts Tobacco near the bottom of the page and continuing, with a few somewhat-related things. over that page and the two following it. The entire process is covered if you don’t mind the interruptions.
Wayne
I’ve actually had success doing just the opposite of what’s already been posted. I paint the entire wall the color of the mortar. Then after letting it dry for a few days, I come back and dry brush the brick color on the tops of the bricks, leaving the mortar lines untouched.
Scott
I often do something similar, only using an art marker instead of a paint brush. The art marker is hard enough that it rarely has a problem with just coloring the bricks.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2289595.aspx
(Apparently link doesn’t feel like working…)
I have used that method, too, but find the drywall mud method easier, especially on large structures.
Wayne
I will have to give the drywall mud method a try the next time I’m building a brick structure. I’m all for doing anything easier.
Scott
How do you guys prepare and apply the drywall mud?
I simply buy a small tub of the pre-mixed stuff, and after painting the structure in the brick colour of choice (and letting it fully dry/cure), use a rag over my fingertips to smear the mud on the structure.
There’s a link which I posted early in this thread which shows most of the process.
The small tub will do dozens of structures, even if they’re rather large. Let the mud dry completely, then use a dry clean rag to rub off the excess - work outdoors, if possible, as it creates a fair amount of dust. Shake out the rag often.
Wayne
The brick buildings on my lay out represent painted buildings, so the mortar is the same as the rest of the building.
If I was to model a building that hasn’t been painted, I’d use the mud method.
You might be able to experiment with colored mortar using non sanded tile grout. I’ve never tried it, but it might work.
Great picture Stix!
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2289595.aspx
I tried to post the picture by copying the address, but that didn’t work, must be an inter forum thing.
Mike.
Thanks for your input on using wallboard mud, Guys! Once it’s applied to the painted brick, what’s the best way of removing it so that only the mud stays in the mortar lines?
I remember when I was a kid my brother had an HO roundhouse model with pre-colored pieces. He painted the plastic brick panels with testors model paint, one at a time. A light powder gray color as I recall.
Just when the paint was dry enough to the touch. He took a plastic Domino and pinched a piece of sheet around it tight. He dipped it in paint thinner and dabbed it onto a paper towel to remove most of the excess thinner. Then he rubbed it round and round on the surface of the brick material. Replacing a piece of sheet every time before it got too gummed up.
He had very good results because the plastic domino was so flat with the sheet pinched tight. It did not rub out the mortar joints and looked very good.
I would like to retry this method sometime. I would also like to try some of the other methods suggested here when I get to it.
TF
It wasn’t until I read this thread, that it sparked the memory of my brothers model technique. Could have been my N scale model though[:S]
I used a rag,an old wash cloth if I recall. Once the mud is dry it should just rub off as dust. Too mutch pressure and you will dig out the mortor .A ‘‘damp’’ cloth will clean it up a little more.
BTW I have used craft paint to tint the mud
Hey, Russ, I replied to that right after your post…
…and also addressed that.
I guess I gotta type louder, eh? [swg]
Here’s a structure, already painted…
here it is with the pre-mixed drywall mud (applied using a rag over my finger tips)…
…same structure after wiping off the excess dried drywall mud with a clean rag, done outdoors…
Thank you Wayne! That explains it completely. [bow]