Hi everyone!
I am using decals on one of my model but I don’t like the shiny look. Is there a product or a way that would prevent the decals from appearing too shiny?
Thanks for your help!
Flat clear lacquer spray. Testors used to call theirs Dullcote.
There’s specific decal spray also, same function.
Be aware that the spray will also dull the appearance of the whole area sprayed which may not be what you want. Dullcote comes in brush on form also.
It’s a good idea to use a product like Solvaset or Micro-sol to ‘snuggle down’ the decals before sealing them in. Flat spray from a spray can works great, you can use Testor’s lacquer based spray, but I generally use Tamiya ‘flat clear’ spraycan spray. (You also want to spray gloss finish on the car or structure before you decal it too; decals work better on gloss finish.)
If you applied them on less than a glossy finish, you may be seeing silvering. I’ve had no luck getting rid of that, because it is underneath the decal.
You apply a small amount of something like Solvaset to the face of the ‘silvered’ portion and use an extremely sharp thin point to pierce the decal film. This allows solvent to wick in and displace the trapped air, and ideally reactivate the adhesive – the softened film will then snuggle down as the solvent evaporates.
This is the same technique used to remove air bubbles before a new decal sets.
A better ‘cure’ is to apply decals only to a shiny and well-sealed surface, and do all the ‘dulling’ and weathering on top. It can be very hard to force decals to conform to some dull or irregular surfaces without extensive pricking or cutting, which can easily damage or deform them.
The only time decals, once applied, should be shiny is if the object being decaled is meant to represent a recently painted and lettered model of a recently painted and lettered prototype.
I don’t wish to bore you, but here’s my procedure for doing decal work on locomotives and rolling stock. Feel free to cherry-pick the parts which apply directly to your dilemma, and skip the parts which either don’t apply or aren’t of interest to your needs…
First, I would suggest that you wash the car (or locomotive, structure, etc.), using warm water and dish detergent, then rinse it thoroughly with water and let it air-dry.
Once it’s dry, airbrush it in an appropriate colour(s), then set it aside to let the paint dry/cure/harden, depending on the type of paint you use.
Once that is done, airbrush the entire areas which will be decalled with Glosscote (or your preferred clear gloss) then let it fully dry until there’s no odour of solvent present on the car. Don’t apply the gloss only where the decals will be applied - for rolling stock and locomotives, those areas are usually the sides and ends - cover them completely with the gloss, even if the amount of decal work will be very minimal. Allow the clear coat to fully cure/harden - there should be no noticeable odour to it, (this minimises the chance of the setting solutions reacting with the clear coat).
Next, use a sharp blade to cut the needed decals from the sheet, keeping as far away from the lettering as possible. Once you have all of the required lettering free of the main sheet, use a sharp blade (re-sharpen or replace as necessary) and working on a hard surface (I use a sheet of glass on my work desk for this), to trim away as much of the blank paper from as close as you can maneuver the blade to the lettering, using a straight down chopping motion, rather than slicing it away. If necessary, do this work under magnification (eyeglasses, Optivi
20201109_215455 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
Airbrushed flat finish like Dullcote for the win. The car above was painted with glossy acrylic from TruColor to aid in decaling, then finished with Dullcote after weathering was complete. Airbrushing can yield a smoother and more evenly matte application than you can get from a spray can.
I agree.
I’ll use the rattle can 1260 Dullcote for quick touch-up jobs but for a true dead-flat finish mixing my own bottled 1160 Dullcote, sometimes blending it with varying amounts of gloss, provides an excellent finish when airbrushed on.
I tried that “Dead-Flat” Rustoleum 302151 which was hyped on another forum as being better than Dullcote, or at least an equivalent. It was anything but. I might use it on track or scenery but it is worthless on any structure or rolling stock.
Good Luck, Ed