Is there a trick to removing retaining washers (e-clips or horseshoe clips) without damaging them or the surrounding area? Sometimes I can get a very small screwdriver between the post and the part of the clip opposite the opening; those are pretty easy. But most are too tight or in a position where the screwdriver is blocked from the correct angle. I’ve tried a pair of snap-ring pliers but the pins are too far apart to fit between the open ends of the clip. Thanks for your help.
Try using square-jawed pliers with jaws as wide as the clip, like lineman’s pliers. Put one jaw against the open side of the clip and the other just above the clip on the other side of the post, with the pliers tilted slightly to accommodate the difference in height. This may not get the clip completely off, but far enough to get a jeweller’s screwdriver into it.
I have not had much luck in reusing the Lionel clips, which must be bent at the center when they are removed and again when replaced. When I put an intact one back on, I generally don’t tighten it all the way, but just enough to keep it from falling off.
thankey,
The older horseshoe type clip is made of a soft metal and is very delicate.
I found out the hard way about the sturdiness of an old horseshoe clip. As, I was putting one back onto the post I applied too much pressure while squeezing the prongs together around the post, the back curve section, of the clip, split open.
The horseshoe clip can be reused, if being careful opening and gently squeezing the prongs closed.
The better type are the ‘C’, or ‘E’ shaped white metal clip, they’re sturdier, can be removed and replaced much easier without damage to all concerned.
Ralph
Sometimes a small screwdriver will fit between the stud and clip slot, then it can be pushed/pryed off. Most times I place a business card on the frame and pust the clip off with a good tip screwdriver.
Just be very careful especially if they’re on plastic studs … the hollow plastic studs will break very easily … you may want to sacrafice the clips if they are the hollow plastic studs . I’ve seen quite a few broken off … makes you use words you should’nt when you do it … LOL .
For the old Lionel horseshoe clips, I use a small narrow tipped needlenose plier - stick it between the open ends and slowly pull the handles apart to spread the clip open. If it’s too tight to fit the tips, twisting a small flat-blade screwdriver between the ends will spread them enough to fit the plier tips in. I rarely re-use the horseshoes, easier and more reliable to replace them with modern e-clips. To remove the e-clips, I do the same as Bob with a small slip-joint plier. To install the e-clips, reverse the proceedure. There’s a tool specifically made for removing and installing e-clips, but I haven’t felt the need to buy one (yet).
What is that special tool? Also, how many different retaining washers are there? I’ve see a number of different ones in the Olsen’s diagrams but the dimensions are not listed. For instance what’s the difference between a TS-70, 480-18, 2454-8, 3492-28, etc.? If you were to get a supply to have on hand, what would you purchase? Thanks.
thankey,
I don’t know about the other sizes of clips that you mention.
The size of the clip depends on the size of the post it is for and not only the outter diameter of the post’s slotted area, but also the height size of the slot, where the clip slides into.
The clips mostly needed are for the truck mounting posts and they’re mostly all of the same size. The ‘C’- (or’E’ stronger) shaped and ‘Horseshoe’-(weaker) clips are the ones.
If using the ‘Horseshoe’ clip, which are delicate, whether you’re affixing, or removing these you must be careful, because they may become damaged when using excessive force.
Ralph
OK this thread is somewhat ironic, as I was just working on a 2227W tender last night. I was having fun w/ the e-clip on one (I’ve heard these called jesus clips, because that’s what you say when it flies across the room, or down the carburator) and broke the horseshoe clip on the front truck. Thinking another e-clip would be an easily available replacement, I pulled out a set of calipers tonight to measure the groove size. At least for the trucks on the 2227W the groove size is about 1/4" and the thickness looks to be about 1/32".
I like the credit card idea to keep from scratching the base. I wasn’t too worried because it was inside. but hate scratching the paint just the same.
Incidently, I got the RW-110 working and blew whistle after I had finished cleaning it up. A big moment. Thanks for all the help from everybody.
Bob
Bob,
I guess many of us has prayed before, during and after repairs, along with a few other choice words, but how did a carburator be close enough to cause the ‘few other choice words?’
I know, you do your repairs in your garage, correct?
Ralph
Ralph
I can’t say I’ve actually dropped an e-clip down a carb, but I’ve run into those things on some of the linkages on occasion and I guess that would be the worst case scenario (maybe w/ the engine running). One of those things you have nightmares about. Two of my vehicles account for 4 carbs so that’s a lot of oppportunities. I can’t remember exactly where I first heard that particular reference to e-clips, but I think it was at a VW shop I worked at briefly. The owner was always dropping little gems like this.
Bob
Bob,
I sometimes work on my trains at the dining room table, as there’s plenty of room and light and when one of the little parts decide to fly, they like to land on the dining room carpet.
The only thing,it’s a magic carpet which causes anything that lands on it to disappear and I mean, PRESTO!,-VANISH!
After, I pray and say the other few choice words and wait untill the following day, then I’ll find it.
Sometimes, I’ll find the part fast, when I’m in it’s flight path.
Another tool to aid in finding and recovering is a magnet, as you know the telescopic type, they come in very handy.
You’re right, carbs., especially running, can be tricky and they’re not ment for the hand, nor magnet. Too dark, deep, hot and dangerous.
Ralph
Ralph
I once found a lost part by re-creating the event and dropping an identical piece. I was young enough to actually think it might work. Strangely enough it did, but I wouldn’t recommend this approach as I imagine it was just a fluke.
I been working on the trains on a bench in the control room of the telescope where I work when things are quiet (not this week) or when we are closed for weather. The control room has a nice big linoleum floor so no parts-eating-carpet issues here. The 2026 and the 2224W are the first through the “Mt. Graham Boiler Shop”.
Bob
P.S. I’m making my first attempt at posting a picture, so we’ll see where this goes…
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3447/3383927046_6293d592c4_b.jpg