Would like some feedback on what method you used to layout your track. I’m torn right now between downloading a program or getting a LGB template and doing it on paper. I like the ease of using computer (I’m a computer junkie/jockey - former CAD draftsman), but my plan right now is I will use it only 2 times. Once to do my temporary layout and again, once more to do my final layout. Unless my aspiring career as a Garden Railroad consultant/builder takes off…[sigh] [:-^] [D)] Anyway, for that reason I’m leaning toward doing it on pencil and paper.
So how’d ya do it? Did you just get out and lay down a bunch of track? Did you do it on computer? Did you use pencil and paper? If you used a computer program, please let me know the program. With all options please let me know what you liked about your method and didn’t like. Oh, and please throw in if it was hand laid or factory prefab sized.
As always, Newbe here, so if this has been addressed, please feel free to link me to it. I did a search, but didn’t get what I was looking for.
Looking forward to hearing what you all have to share.
I always used a computer program, Autocadd, to lay out track prior to any construction. It allows me to test fit everything, get an accurate material count, and it also allows me to review and fine tune the layout before I build, or to test out options without having to pull up existing track.
Real Autocadd, I learned what the diameters are, how wide the track is, and how many segments make up a circle and then create track segments based on that. Its pretty simple and I can manipulate it very quickly. Here is the latest plan for my indoor layout. It shows how I depict the track with Autocadd. basicly the centerline follows the diameter line, and i depict the track 3" wide overall for clearances. Switches are just a circcle segment and a straight segment together.
I had a rough plan in my head and just started laying track in the general direction I wanted to go. At one point, I boxed myself into a corner near the wall and between a couple of trees and had to tear out the roadbed fill (weighs about 100 lb per foot) and realign the roadbed. I didn’t use any leveling method other than to place a truck on the track. Whenever it quit rolling forwards or back, I knew I have brought the level of the fill or cut or bridge to the required near zero grade.
A computer prog is ok for people who dont like getting the old brain cells working Try laying track on ground if you like the look of it go with it. we all make mistakes but thats the fun of garden railways.I bet with 6 months to a year you will change some of it. I have changed mine by addind passing loops dead sidings to hold extra locos and rolling stock. when I say dead that means change point to direction of travel and track is live. I use LGB track points and point motors[:)]
I wouldn’t mind going the route that you and FJ and G went, I admire you guys for doing it that way. I actually laid out my son’s Thomas set that way, but what I’m up against is a limited space and budged. I’m going to build up a “box” with dirt in it, and factor in that I’m going to order my track online, I’d like to know how many of what to get as opposed to buying a bunch of track that I’m sure will get used at some point, but I don’t really have the $$$ right now to invest. This will be my temporary layout until I can get some other things done that need attention.
And in the end, I’m a bit of a perfectionist. Call it the draftsman in me, but I can’t do a lot without a plan.
“A computer prog is ok for people who dont like getting the old brain cells working”
Thats a good way to do it if you’ve got 12 months and a truck full of track. Your comment belays that you’ve never tried using a good Cadd program for track planning. I’ll beat I’ve thought more about my layouts planning and development by using the computer than I ever would have just laying track down on dirt.
I can do several variations of the plan, all in a very short timespan, and evaluate each of them, try that in the field. I can make virtual changes to the layout to see if theres a better solution without having to pull up track thats already been placed, till I’m ready to pull it up with a new computer generated plan and material list to work off of.
I can get an accurate track count of track; X# of straights, X# of curves, so many this radious, so many that radius, this many RH switches, that many LH switches. Wiring runs, grades, drainage, landscaping, all can be integrated.
As a result I save money not overbuying, I know excactly what I’m going to build, not haphazardly trying a dozen frustrating deadends. Yeah I might change things over time, we all do. But the difference is starting with something haphazard leading to alot of rebuildings and possible frustration -vs- having a well planned organized layout ready to run trains on Golden Spike day.
Check out the first incarnation of my temporary outdoor line, you cant get any simpler that the method I used. Instead of dirt I used crushed gravel, some large landscaping rocks and just layed the track on top, worked like a charm. and was the easiest thing I’ve done in the yard.
I guess you should go with your gut. I just used a tape measure, but would suggest using the longest straight sections of track available, which for me was 5 footers. If possible, you may want to avoid tight R1 curves if you want to run longer cars/engines. David’s advice for leveling with a truck, or even the whole car is quite effective. Of course, I didn’t learn that until I had laid everything down and purchased a live steam engine. I found out that just because a stretch of ground looks level, it ain’t necessarily so, and there’s nothing like live steam to prove it! I had purchased a popular program for my O-gauge layout, and it proved to be quite useless and irritating. Their tech support people said it was because of the play in tubular track, but that won’t be a problem for you with G gauge track. My layout is only 126’, and it might have been dumb luck, but I pretty much ordered exactly what I needed. Also would highly recommend split jaw or similar clamps to join your track. Just another perspective, I’m sure you’ll have fun with it no matter!
I like to play in the dirt, I did some quick connects to see if I liked the look of the layout. When I got a scheme that I thought I would like I jotted down some measurements, and moved the whole shebang to the patio. I had to dig the pond, when taking breaks from working on the pond I played with several ideas of how to get the RR under the water fall. Each phase of this planning process required approval from the CFO, and she has a problem visualizing thins. She needs to walk up to it and look at it. After digging out the pond and finishing the pond liner and rocks, I picked the track up from the patio and started putting it down and running trains.
After getting it going I found a freebie on the net to use to dray my layout. It is NOT to scale but gives the overall idea.
"two tone"wrote: " “A computer prog is ok for people who dont like getting the old brain cells working” " A good CAD program is for those who like to think ahead and avoid the “Duh” factor!
Because I would not be using it very many times I passed on getting a computer program. Instead before I ordered my track I took several old garden hoses and used them to get rough looks at several different ideas that I had in mind. Then when I settled on the plan I liked the best I got out the old tape measure and “fine tuned” the garden hoses and then put together my material list.
One suggestion is to get a garden hose and just lay it along your track route - spot check gradients then decide if the route requires too many earthworks or what digging is required- it gives a feel for the appearance and likely track length
On my website I show how to make a layout, the benchwork, track laying and soon stub switches.
Come and enjoy.
For software I use the game ‘trainz’. I use the surveyor mode and cn make any layout my mind can think of. Also as a bonus I get to ride it as well.
A demo is at www.auran.com
Works for me.
I used xtracad and printed out my plan . Then changed as I went . If you look in my signature you’ll see how I did it in my first layout as well as but not so detailed in my present layout [:D]
Since I am a lay as you go its easy I use set radius curves its a case of build the track bed to suit
I determined what track I needed by the fact that a certain number of curves make a circle and
I have a preferance for LGB 4’ straights but do at least measure the straight length so I know how many I need.
Passing loops are easy five straights per track two isolators per track (length will vary from RR to RR mine just happen to have min 20’ standing room) two sets of points two R what ever the points are curves enough extra straight track for the straight side of the points to connect up the main line.
Lay as you go does have the draw back that you can get it horribly wrong and have to go back to bare dirt occasionaly once the track and bed is in I then bank up the embankments after laying pipes and pits for wiring
You know, I never replied to your question, so I’m sorry for appearing rude. I’m thinking about a 10’ x 15’ workable area. I can push the 10’ out to 12’ or so if I have to. I’m thinking landscape timbers becasue it temporary and I kinda like the look. I have an Aristo-Craft covered bridge that I got for Father’s day that I would like to work into it as well. I’m also thinking of a tunnel to give depth/effect that it’s going around the mountain, but comes through the tunnel.
