Here is the progress so far of the layout I am building:
I am building a portable modular 4’ x 8’ layout for an HO scale Hy-Vee Savings Express train. There will be 4 modules, each measuring 2’ x 4’. Each module will be held together with alignment pins and draw catch hardware along the length and width. The top rough surface is 1/2" OSB, the framing is 2" x 4" and 2" x 2". Each module will have a set of folding table legs.
The finished surface will 1/2" homosote which will be painted, have the track laid on it with buildings, etc. Around the outside edges will be 1" x 4" painted fascia board.
Here are photos of the progress so far with one of the train set:
It appears that your folding legs will project beyond the edge of the layout. They will almost certainly be bumped by folks walking around, thereby shaking the layout.
They do stick out a little bit, less than 2". It can’t be helped. I have to offset them this much so there is enough clearance in the middle to fasten the draw catch hardware tightly.
I am not that worried about most people getting that close to it to bump it even when on public display. If I need to I can figure out a way to prevent people from getting too close, but close enough to still see the layout.
Agree with dante on the leg placement. They are usually set in from the ends at least 6", if not 8" to 10" on most of the table I have seen.
Are you going to have a set of legs under each 2’ x 4’ sectin? Seems like a lot of legs for the size of the table. Most tables supported by that type of leg are usually 30" - 36" wide. You would be adding 6" to each side, I think they would hold without a problem. To make them removeable, put a T-nut on the topside of the block, counter sunk in about half the depth of the block. Have bolts that would go up through the leg into the T-nut. By putting the drive in part on top of the block, it will pull it into the block tighter, rather than out, loosening it over time.
Are you talking about making the folding legs removable? Or using individual legs that lock in with the T-nut you mention to make them removable?
If you are talking about using individual legs, I thought about it. The price of the legs, plus the hardware would be more per 2’ x 4’ module than the folding table legs I am using. There would have to be 4 legs, plus hardware. With the legs starting at over $6.00 a piece, the legs alone would be over $24.00 per module and there are 4 modules. One set of steel folding table legs is less than $20.00. Plus they are stronger and will last a lot longer. Sure it may be a bit overkill but I can pretty much guarantee the layout will not collapse.
Don’t get me wrong I am not complaining about the cost of this and expect to pay a good deal of money for it. But I will not pay than is needed. When something is already pre-built, made of stronger material, in this case steel, requires less labor to install and operate and is less expensive it is pretty much a no brainer.
I still think using 2x4 for the structure is overkill and makes the sections heavier than necessary. The easyist to handle modules are both strong and light.
You will probablyeventually have problems depending on draw catches to hold the sections together. Where I’ve seen them used on modules, they have tended to loosen up over time.
OSB surface instead of plywood. Will it warp when you use water as part of ballasting and such things?
2x4 and 2x2s instead of 1/2" plywood ripped (cut into strips/plans 3" wide). Sections will weigh a lot more than necessary. If you had done an egg crate style construction, you could even have used 1/4" plywood and have gotten a truly lightweight module:
(pics by my friend Svein):
Legs with non-adjustable lengths. You will have to hope that floors will be even.
Would have been better with legs whose length could be adjusted in some way - e,g with cabinet leveling feet at the bottom,
It would also have been preferable with fewer legs, maybe only two legs per section. You would then need a hand while putting up the first two (or have three legs on the first module), and then have em hang on each other.
The 2" x 4" framing is required for the folding table legs at the ends. If you didn’t notice I did have to add an additional 2" x 2" at the one end to accommodate the bracket for that folding table leg. This was a mistake i caught early enough it was easy to fix. I have already added the additional 2" x 2" pieces to the other 3 modules. Had I known this ahead of time I would have used 2" x 4" at the one end.
Another change I made is the piece used to fasten the other brackets of the table legs to. You’ll notice in the photos I used 2 small pieces on one and one small piece, just long enough on the other. I have changed to using a piece of 2" x 4" that goes all the way across the inside space of the bottom of the layout, set at 10" from the end to the center of the 2" x 4" piece. Overkill? Maybe, but it is easier to build it this way than to mess around with smaller pieces.
I have already alluded this layout has to be sturdy. 2" x 4" framing will help accomplish this. You know I did actually think about building this out of steel and either bolt or weld it together. But I thought that would be way to over kill, not to mention way to heavy to move around. I’m not trying to support a anything larger than an HO scale train.
What, in your opinion is just as strong as 2" x 4", but lighter weight?
Not going to use water or track ballast. I’m going to spend the money and use the track that already made with the bed/ballast.
I am keeping the design and construction of this simple and easy. I am not sure why people are getting on me about the weight. You’re not the ones who have to lift and carry this thing around, I am. So why your concern about how heavy it might be? What do you care how much it weighs? It’s not your layout.
Shims will work to level the layout when and where necessary.
2 of the modules are completely framed, with the folding table legs installed. They fasten together perfectly with the alignment pins and draw catches.
Next is installing the 2" x 4" bracing for the folding table legs on the other 2 modules, then this layout is put on hold until I am able to purchase the other 2 sets of table legs.
In the mean time I am going to start on the 2’ x 4’ layout for my N scale layout. Its framing will be similar in design to the modules of the 4’ x 8’ layout. Except 2" x 4" all the way around and will not need alignment pins or draw catches for anything.
I was thinking of using one set of legs for the whole project and making them removeable. As you show it, it appears that you are going to be using four sets of legs, a set under each 2’x4’ section. A good C-clamp on each side, maybe one in the middle with your pegs holding alignment, should be strong enough to support the center. C-clamps could also be used to hold your side sections together. I am assuming you are using alignment pegs there too. I have seen a number of modular layouts held together with c-clamps.
Are you planning to cut the track at the edge of each section or having a gap filling piece of track at each joint? Having a fill piece keeps the track ends from catching on other things in transit and getting damaged.
If you seal your OSB board with a couple coats of sealer you should have no moisture problems. I would do this whether you are going to use moist products on the layout or not. Humidity can effect an unsealed surface enought to disrupt your tracks.
You only need to use 2"x4"‘s where the legs attach, the rest of the framing could be 1’x2’ or 1"x3", much less weight.
Experience at a lot of train shows, heavy modules are a real pain to load/unload, lug around and set up/tear down. The older you get the worse it is.
You might be able to make the leg height adjustable. Remove the plug, insert a tight fitting wood dowel. Drill a 1/4" dia hole into the dowell, attach a T-nut. You can then use a 1/4" x 3" or 4" carriage bolt to adjust the height.
If you do any kind of textured scenery, you will most likely get things wet. A good water resistant seal coat would help the modules from warping.
The OSB is not going to be the finished top surface. I have yet to add the homasote or other similar material to the top surface and 1" x 4" fascia board around the edges to hide the seams. Both will be sealed with a coat of latex paint to protect from moisture.
The top edge of the fascia board will be even/flush with the top of the homasote/fiber board material. as such on one side the fascia board will have to be ripped down on the width because the legs over hang the one side.
Before anyone says anything, yes I could use a narrower 1" x fascia board that may not need to be ripped down. But I already have fascia board left over from a previous project I did on my garage a few years ago. I would rather use what I have on hand and tip it down, than purchase more material.
If i need to I will use the wood dowel in the ends of the legs with a carriage bolt to make it adjustable
If i do not use the wood dowel and a carriage bolt that can be adjusted inserted into the ends of the steel legs, yes I’ll use shims where necessary. Keep in mind when this is on public display it will be at Hy-Vee grocery stores and if a model railroad show ever comes to Sioux City, maybe there too. While the stores and the places where a model railroad show would take place may have uneven floors, they are newer, modern buildings.
About the only place I’ll have to worry about serious leveling is if it is displayed at the railroad museum. It is an older building, as it was once the railroad shop for the area, with its roundhouse and turntable.
I have some questions about protecting the layout and train set from people touching it and from throwing things onto the layout. I have seen layouts with a clear plastic material box surrounding them. I think it is either acrylic, plexiglass or maybe even lexan.
I should have enough clearance around the edges to fasten a removable box. My idea for its design would be instead of “glueing” it together with silicon or other similar adhesive I would use “piano” hinge fastened to the clear material with bolts and wing nuts so it can come apart and fold for storage and transport when not in use. I would also have to figure out a way to fasten it around the edges of the layout so it can keep people from touching it, and so the box does not move or shift when the train is running and still have the box removable when it is not in use.
There also may be an issue of sagging in the middle as it the box will be at least 4’ x 8’ and as tall as it will need to be to allow for enough clearance for the layout. I know the taller it is the more likely it is to sag in the middle under its own weight.
Any ideas? Would it be best to use thinner material around the edges and thicker on the top to keep it rigid enough to prevent sagging? With thinner material around the edges and thicker material on top would the top tend to pull the sides in because of the heavier weight top? Would it be best to make the clear box modular as well that would meet in the middle and have cutouts in the material to allow for clearance for the building, track, etc on the layout.
