I have BIG plans!!!

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
21

Two words of advice from one who has built big layouts, though not as big as yours:

Build all of your benchwork first. Build it in modules, none bigger than 4 x 8, or whatever can be easily transported to a new location. Bolt them together for easy separation for moving. This will go relatively fast.

Lay track in stages, from the center out. Put temporary reverse loops at each end of the completed sections. This is a MUST in my opinion. It t gives you an opportunity to get some trains running. Consider that a big layout envolves a lot of track laying that will take a lot of time to do it right and that your patience will run thin to see some trains running.

22

Even though mine’s only 8x15, I still built it so I can take it apart in 4 sections and move it if I have to. Watch putting large structures and scenery on seams you may have to break apart one day.

23

How do you bolt them together?

Thanks for your help, appreciated.

24

I have 2x4 frame work.(you’ll probably use 1x4’s or something else) I clamped the sections in place with C clamps and screwed 3" sheet rock screws in to hold the sections to each other.(same thing to hold the legs on) I can remove about 60 screws and the whole thing comes apart.

25

I would recommend a modular system where sections are interchangeable so that if you ever have to move, you won’t need to find a space that matches the space you start with. You can arrange the modules to fit whatever new space you have to move to. Also, I would make sure this place you want to rent has good temperature and humidity controls. Big swings in either can play havoc with your benchwork and track.

Two years is not a long time for a railroad that big. Unless you can devote lots of time to it, I would think it is going to take you at least five years to get it even reasonably complete. I am semi-retired and my layout is in a comparable sized space. I have been working at it for about three years, and I just recently completed the mainline and have about 1/3 of the scenery in. I haven’t even begun the branchline I have planned for a center peninsula.

26

The 2 years I’m talking about is only the beginning. It will probably be possible to hire it much longer then that. So it feels pretty good. It’s a good idea to make the sections interchangeable. Thanks.

27

In our club we have moduars and there nice, but the bigest thing when we joined that i saw and REALLY liked was the legs. They use pipe or tube legs about 4-6’’ diameter like the kind used for plumbing. those don’t move easily when it’s up but slide off and make it easy to move!!! that’s my sugustion.

Good to here about the lease. is the contract set so you’ll have time to move out if you have to??? Can’t wait to see those photos!

28

Well, yes and no. I personally find it’s more about consistent effort than “lots of time”.

I put in an average 1 hour per day on my layout, but not typically 7 hours on one day a week averaging to one hour a day. I actually try to put in time every day versus great chunks of time periodically. It may be 15 minutes one day when I smooth one seam in the backdrop and that’s it. Another day might be 2 hours… There are days I spend 6,8 or more hours on it, but they’re rare.

I find consistent small chunks of time makes things go much faster than working in big, infrequent chunks. While that’s been my way of working on several previous layouts, it happens that I’ve recently started on a layout of comparable size to yours. While I spent months planning the layout design, I’ve been actually working on it for about 4 weeks. In that time I have gone from bare concerete room to I’m-ready-to-lay-track. I have framed the room, built all the benchwork, installed lighting, wiring, installed the backdrop, and the tabletops.

I’m sure the next comment many will make is “that’s the easy stuff.” Partly true, but I know my tracklaying pace very well after several layouts… I’m guessing I’ll have the mainline, including relevant sidings and yards laid within 2-3 weeks, and all of it including logging and branchline within 2 more.

I’ll be the first one to say that scenicking is the most time consuming aspect of all. But again, I’ve done this a bi

29

Check the cost of insuring the place and the contents before signing anything. Also, are there any other hidden ‘costs’?

Good luck with your venture,

Jon

30

Electro:

Hey, that’s great news!

I have often thought that if I was starting over with the Siskiyou Line, I would build it as a series of modules no longer than 6 feet and work on it in comfort at my workbench.

When I’m comfortable, I do my best work. So the concept of working at the workbench really appeals to me since I think the layout would be better built that way.

I’d use a simple grid construction, but reinforce the corners to make it more rigid. I would bolt it together in the layout room with carriage bolts while installing the roadbed. I would use double risers on the ends along with a complete scenery profile board front to back so I could just cut through the roadbed and take it back apart to move to the workbench for installation of the track, wiring, and scenery.

You should remain flexible with module lengths, trying to keep them somewhere between 4-6 feet. Plan the joints so they are not over any critical trackwork.

I’d lay the track up to within an inch of the end of the module and then splice and solder in a small section over the joint when back in the layout room, and then do a small bit of ballast work and scenery work to disguise the joint. Since the ends of the two modules being butted together would have matching full profile boards, the scenery between the two modules should be a close match.

If you wanted, you could bolt the modules together, install all the roadbed, cut them apart, go lay the track at the workbench, then put them all back together with temporary short joint track sections between the modules. You could run trains, or pull a single module back to the workbench and detail it up when you are in the mood.

Kind of the best of both worlds.

Then if you ever move, you could literally take the layout with you. However, that only sort of works because chances are the old layout won’t fit into the new space very well. You might be able to use a few pieces, however.

31

i almost wish i lived in sweden so i could help you build this layout ! (except for the winter [:)] )

how finished is the space you’re getting ? many basments here are unfinished , you will have to consider installing drywall (sheetrock ? not sure what you call it there) on the walls and ceiling . if you have to do the ceiling be sure to include some soundproofing insulation so you don’t disturb the residents with late night whistle blowing during operating sessions

forming a small club to do some of the work and eventually operate the layout sounds like a good idea , as does keeping the module size fairly small , 2’x8’ or less . makes them more movable , and means you’ll have to rebuild less if your next space isn’t the same size and shape as this one (assuming you ever have to move the layout)

keep us updated , this sounds like a great project

32

Me thinks you needs to eat fish, lots a fish!!!

33

[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate

Electro:

Hey, that’s great news!

I have often thought that if I was starting over with the Siskiyou Line, I would build it as a series of modules no longer than 6 feet and work on it in comfort at my workbench.

When I’m comfortable, I do my best work. So the concept of working at the workbench really appeals to me since I think the layout would be better built that way.

I’d use a simple grid construction, but reinforce the corners to make it more rigid. I would bolt it together in the layout room with carriage bolts while installing the roadbed. I would use double risers on the ends along with a complete scenery profile board front to back so I could just cut through the roadbed and take it back apart to move to the workbench for installation of the track, wiring, and scenery.

You should remain flexible with module lengths, trying to keep them somewhere between 4-6 feet. Plan the joints so they are not over any critical trackwork.

I’d lay the track up to within an inch of the end of the module and then splice and solder in a small section over the joint when back in the layout room, and then do a small bit of ballast work and scenery work to disguise the joint. Since the ends of the two modules being butted together would have matching full profile boards, the scenery between the two modules should be a close match.

If you wanted, you could bolt the modules together, install all the roadbed, cut them apart, go lay the track at the workbench, then put them all back together with temporary short joint track sections between the modules. You could run trains, or pull a single module back to the workbench and detail it up when you are in the mood.

Kind of the best of both worlds.

Then if you ever move, you could literally take the layout with you. However, that only sort of works because chances are the old layout won’t fit into the new sp

34

CARRfan:

You bet I would do a mushroom again, unless I had lots of room for a single level layout. I find the 1100 sq ft (equivalent) I have now is approaching all the layout I can handle maintenance-wise. If I had electro’s space, I’d do it all single level like he’s planning.

But it would be possible to do a modular mushroom, with a bit of planning.

You’d have to do one level at a time, starting with the lower level first.

35

Ah, yes, that makes sense. If you had that much room you’d get the space you need without a mushroom.

You’re almost sounding sort of David-Barrow-i***oday Joe! [8D]

36

Shhh! Nobody mentioned dominos … [;)]

What’s that saying? Originality is defined as: your ability to conceal your sources. [swg]

37

Thanks for the leg suggestion. Yes, the contract is set so I have 3 month to move.

38

[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by kchronister

Well, yes and no. I personally find it’s more about consistent effort than “lots of time”.

I put in an average 1 hour per day on my layout, but not typically 7 hours on one day a week averaging to one hour a day. I actually try to put in time every day versus great chunks of time periodically. It may be 15 minutes one day when I smooth one seam in the backdrop and that’s it. Another day might be 2 hours… There are days I spend 6,8 or more hours on it, but they’re rare.

I find consistent small chunks of time makes things go much faster than working in big, infrequent chunks. While that’s been my way of working on several previous layouts, it happens that I’ve recently started on a layout of comparable size to yours. While I spent months planning the layout design, I’ve been actually working on it for about 4 weeks. In that time I have gone from bare concerete room to I’m-ready-to-lay-track. I have framed the room, built all the benchwork, installed lighting, wiring, installed the backdrop, and the tabletops.

I’m sure the next comment many will make is “that’s the easy stuff.” Partly true, but I know my tracklaying pace very well after several layouts… I’m guessing I’ll have the mainline, including relevant sidings and yards laid within 2-3 weeks, and all of it including logging and branchline within 2 more.

I’ll be the first one to say that scenicking is the

39

No hidden costs as far as I know.

40

[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate

Electro:

Hey, that’s great news!

I have often thought that if I was starting over with the Siskiyou Line, I would build it as a series of modules no longer than 6 feet and work on it in comfort at my workbench.

When I’m comfortable, I do my best work. So the concept of working at the workbench really appeals to me since I think the layout would be better built that way.

I’d use a simple grid construction, but reinforce the corners to make it more rigid. I would bolt it together in the layout room with carriage bolts while installing the roadbed. I would use double risers on the ends along with a complete scenery profile board front to back so I could just cut through the roadbed and take it back apart to move to the workbench for installation of the track, wiring, and scenery.

You should remain flexible with module lengths, trying to keep them somewhere between 4-6 feet. Plan the joints so they are not over any critical trackwork.

I’d lay the track up to within an inch of the end of the module and then splice and solder in a small section over the joint when back in the layout room, and then do a small bit of ballast work and scenery work to disguise the joint. Since the ends of the two modules being butted together would have matching full profile boards, the scenery between the two modules should be a close match.

If you wanted, you could bolt the modules together, install all the roadbed, cut them apart, go lay the track at the workbench, then put them all back together with temporary short joint track sections between the modules. You could run trains, or pull a single module back to the workbench and detail it up when you are in the mood.

Kind of the best of both worlds.

Then if you ever move, you could literally take the layout with you. However, that only sort of works because chances are the old layout won’t fit into the new sp