I am interested in becoming a scratchbuilder, but I need some help getting started.
Specifically, I want to scratchbuild freight cars, I’ve not decided between HO and S yet.
I will probably use styrene, but brass intrigues me.
Is there a book or website out there that can help me get started?
It occured to me that getting an issue of Model Railraod Craftsman and following the instructions for one of those projects might be as good a way to start as any.
Also, is there a list out there of the companies that supply the detail parts, etc.?
Basically, my thing is that next summer I’m building a two-storey garage with floor #2 being the train room, so I figured I’d get started amassing rolling stock in the mean time.
First off, I would encourage you to find something simple to scratch-build first before tackling something like a boxcar, so that you can hone your skills. However, if you are planning on building a garage next summer, it shouldn’t take you too long.
Say, how 'bout building a “mock up” of the garage you plan on building. And do it both scales! If you can handle that, then try tackling a boxcar and see how you do. I know you can buy dimensional wood (2x4, 1x8, etc.) in HO scale. Worth a try…
The real trick would be to build a HO scale layout in the second floor of the HO scale garage… let’s see that would be 1/7596 scale… so a 50 foot boxcar would be .079 of an inch long! [:)]
A good plan might be to start with a fairly complex freight car kit. Labelle wood kits are pretty close to scratchbuilding, and the techniques might translate pretty well to styrene. Or try a Tichy styrene kit. These are not shake-the-box and will give you useful practice as well as a reference for construction methods. When done, you can run your SB cars with the kit products.
If you want to jump right in, you can’t get much simpler than an old-time wooden flatcar.
It may actually be wise to consider using wood for models of wood cars, simply because Northeastern has a very complete line of floors, roofs, wall siding, et cetera.
For instructions, seek out older issues of MRRing publications such as MR or RMC. MR had a very nice series of “Dollar Car” projects in the 1950s that could be followed with modern materials and detail parts. They collected some into a book: EASY TO BUILD FREIGHT CARS. Other idea: go to the MR index and search for “scratchbuilding”. See if your library has back issues.
For parts, the best bet is to get hold of a Walthers catalog. Read it a lot and sleep with it under your pillow.
Even though I haven’t done a lot of it, I found the best way to get into scratch-building is…just to jump in and try something. Go into it and have just fun experimenting: If it works, it works; if it doesn’t; it doesn’t. Kitbashing or detailing an existing structure is also another way to get your feet wet.
And, look around your town and see if there is a structure or building that interests you and that you’d like to include on your layout. Get lots of pictures from different angles and rough measurements, if possible.
Wax, you’ll find that the kits that you spend time detaiing or the structures or buildings that you scratch-build will become you’re most prized possessions on your layout. Keep us posted…
First, I would suggest S over HO for scratchbuilding. The bigger parts are easier to work with.
In addition to the suggestions above, I suggest you find a kit, probably resin, that has separate sides, ends, roof, and floor. This will give you experience in building the box.
For brass, try some old MR/RMC or other magazines for scratchbuilding articles. Locomotive Workshop used to occaisionally make brass freight car kits in S and O, but these might be hard to find.
One of the best mags for scratch building, unfortunately no long being printed is Mainline Magazine, check hobby shops and trainshow shows for back issues.
You also need to think about era when scratchbuilding. Pre 1920’s cars were mostly wood and are considered by many to be easier to build.Post 1950’s cars are mostly welded, once again easier to model. 1920’s to 1950’s cars were mostly riveted. Sometimes rivets can be tedious or challenging.
I would suggest researching cras in the era you are interested in to find out what al the parts of a real car are and what they look like. Then build a LaBelle or BTS wood kit. Then maybe a Westerfield kit just to see how things go together. You can duplicate a Labelle kit with wood or styrene pieces.
I scratch build from wood, using the Northeastern basswood. They have pieces shaped to make roofs, floors, and end blocks. Siding can be scribed sheet wood for a wood prototype or any kind of sheet wood covered with glossy photographic paper (cut up old photographs) for steel cars. Buy or scrounge brake gear, brake wheels, trucks, preformed wire grab irons, ladders and doors. Get an assortment of strip wood, it comes square, rectangular, t shaped, L shaped.
Tools and equipment is pretty simple, hobby knives, a small saw, scale ruler, files, sandpaper, paint, brushes and decals. Ambroid cement and yellow carpenters glue. The carpenter’s glue is stronger than cement, but needs to be clamped until dry. I use the stronger carpenters glue to glue the roof, floor, and end blocks together, and Ambroid cement for everything else.
To do it right, you need dimensioned prototype plans and photos of your target car. The plans tell you how high, wide and long the car should be. The photos show paint and lettering, safety equipment and appliance locations. The old model railroading magazines were full of same. RMC still does plans but MR has given them up.
Boxcars and reefers are easier than hoppers, tank cars, and cabeese. The wood brush paints well, no air brush required. You can do full brake rigging with some brass wire and shim brass to cut the brake levers from.