I began with an LGB starter set, with the classic Stainz locomotive, some 30 years ago. Now I have a few locos, a Shay and Climax (DCC) and recently picked up the cleaning loco. I have several western boxcars, and a little switch engine. I really want to get something started outside.
I live in the Black Hills, so my biggest battle will be needles, and snow–I do have a snow blower that I got from all my friends when I moved to the Midwest so can’t wait to run that on real snow.
I thought I’d just stick with LGB track, with a few connections for power. The only DCC loco is the Climax, and I’m fine just running that at Christmas indoors–i picked up the Bachman controller to run that.
While on a plane I mapped out an idea, guess just wanted some ideas, and suggestions.
Here’s a pic of where I was thinking with two sidings and eventually a trestle to the left.
Also included is pics of my little RigiDuo cable car, and my Karwendel Bahn telescope model.
I thought I’d start with digging a trench maybe 4-6" putting down road bed gravel, then laying landscaping fabric and crushed granite for the rail bed–do I put that locking sand to hold that together with the ties?
Then four points for power into the corners, per se, and then other wiring for future lighting, or just relying on solar powered garden lights.
There are probably as many ways to ballast tracks as there are hobbyists. Each has plusses and minuses, it seems, based upon desired visuals, tolerance for maintenance, and local climate. The most consistent advice seems to be to see what others in your area are doing and use one of those methods.
You might want to consider a raised or semi-raised bed approach. You trade easier visuals and easier maintenance for less flexible space. The Triple 0 is about 18" above the ground. As it turns out, our yard floods once or twice a year, so this is a happy trade off!
Finally, if you have the track, lay it out on the ground, level it with sticks, stones, dead varmints, whatever, and just run a short train for a couple of evenings. This will go a long way towards validating your plan before you break ground.
I am not sure if it carried over, but our trials to rails was documented in the old forum under the title “Progress of the Triple O.” The tropics are hardly the world in which you reside, but it the thought process may prove useful.
I guess another question I had, since I really only have the short Stainz and switch locos, and the independent truck Climax and Shay, can I get away with the shorter, smaller radius switches (points, turnouts)?
I guess at some point I’d love and F7 and a few more modern boxcars, but those should do ok as well, no? And a Big Boy, that would definitely have issues, but I have to many other hobbies to ever get a Big Boy
Tony,
this is fantastic! I like your Rigi cable car, I have a Furka Oberalp cog train on my garden railway. Did you mention what the curve radius/diameters are ? It’s good to plan ahead with wider curves if possible to accomodate
larger engines you may purchase later on, like a Big Boy. I think you are on the the right track with your roadbed plans.Rail clamps and conductive paste in the rail joiners helps with conductivity.
I’m excited for you !
Paul
Ballast supports the track, provides drainage, holds the track in place,allows for expansion and contraction with temperature changes, and has some conpensation for changes in the soil,tree roots, etc. Let the track have the freedom to “breathe”, because expansion is a thing…
rail clamps can get expensive in a hurry, but at the very least, use the conductive paste, and make sure the rail joiners are snug fitting.If you can afford the expense,use clamps also.
Surprisingly, I have discovered that most LGB trains and cars are capable of running on the minimum radius track and switches, even the F7, and my long passenger cars. The Shay can also, as well as the Aristo C-16. But as a general rule, try to use wider radius track, whatever you can fit. It will pay off later on.
Turns. LGB designs all their stuff to run on their tightest radii. The upshot is it will all work. The downside is that some of it can look goofy due to overhang. Your railroad, your rules, and your aesthetic. We did have some issues with locos with six drivers binding on curves in some areas, probably due to heat expansion. Notably, B’mann 10-wheelers also negotiate tight curves very well, and they handle dirty track much better. Don’t, however, get me started on their drive trains… Be prepared to spend for the brass-geared models or to get aftermarket drive gears for these things…
I’ve no experience with the SHAY or CLIMAX. I leave that to others.
Railclamps. Expensive, but they have made the difference between running trains and chasing electrical faults. We bought them a pack or so at a time over years. Alternatively, bite the bullet and go battery, especially if you have the discipline to only acquire a handful fo models. We had a large legacy fleet, so railclamps proved the most economical way for us to enjoy our railroad our way. In truth, had we started from scratch, I would have got the 2-4 locos I wanted and converted them to battery.
What conductive paste do you use? My buddy has aerial antennae, and had some left over, but it seems ‘aluminum’ specific, so we’re not sure if it will work with the brass.
The only switches I have now are the short curve , 4’ radius, 12000’s. But if I only use 1 segment of the radius, would it be that detrimental over all?
I use the same stuff I use when I change bulbs on my car. It works well enough. Your buddy’s stuff may be optimized for aluminum, which may or may not mean anything for brass. Best to do some research.
Only one way to test your locos and rolling stock on those turns: set 'em up, wire 'em up, and let 'em roll! Best to find out now before you make things permanent.
Hi Tony,
Piko makes the conductive paste that goes in the rail joints. LGB used to make it also, probably still do, but you would have to search to find out for sure.
I use a lot of second hand track and turnouts I picked up cheap. I clean the rail ends with a wire brush, use conductive paste, and new LGB rail joiners. Continuity is great, so far.
I try to put the minimum radius track on sidings, not on the main loop, which I try to keep at wider radius. This way, I can still use up all the track I have.
Paul
Hello CarpeTony,
I’ve been running a garden railway for over 12 years, and have written some articles for Garden Railways.
One article was published in January 2022, and talks about using landscaping timbers as roadbed.
Laying pieces of these timbers on a bed of gravel offers a strong, stable, yet flexible way to support the tracks.
Since you are starting, I would second the suggestion of others, to invest in larger circumference curves, and clamps to connect track pieces.
In my experience, the clamps provide the best connectivity. I have not experience loss of power due to tracks being disconnected.
I realized I was missing the upper tram station in the picture, and I included a picture of the real Karwendel Bahn and Telescope museum at the top.
If I ever get adventurous, maybe I’ll add 8" vent pipe and have the step down part. It is NOT the easiest thing to set up on the rail upstairs, so there is that limit.
I used beer cans of variety of sizes to do the roof. I ran them through a little “corrugator” roller type machine that bent the waves into it. Then stuck them, and the coffee stirrers down with some VHB .
so can’t wait to run that on real snow.
Be prepared to spend for the brass-geared models or to get aftermarket drive gears for these things…
