I think I need some rerailers. There are a couple trouble spots on my layout and I want to give my cars the extra help they need. But these spots are on curves/grades so I can’t easily do this. Ideas?
Maybe check those spots with a track gauge and see if tweaking the rail in or out will solve your problem. You may also try installing a gaurd rail near the trouble spots.
I was having similar problems on a curve that will eventually be inside a large mountain. I went to my LHS and they suggested putting in a piece of sectional rerailer track. I didn’t care for that idea because of tearing out track so I used the sectional track as a template a made the inside piece ( the one between the rails ) out of a thin piece of balsa wood. Seems to be working so far. OTOH my rerailer will not be seen so I went for function and not realism. good luck , Joe
I would strongly suggest that you work on those trouble sections and eliminate the problems rather than trying to “band aid” them. As has been suggested above check your gauge and also look for small kinks, out of level track and rough rail joints. I’m not sure that a curved re-railer will perform satisfactorily either. Perhaps there is a reason that the available ones are straight sections?
Joe
Not so much a rerailer but on both side of my swing out gate I have put pieces of rail on the inside of the ties between the tracks. I had bent the rail to the same radi then on the ends bent a angle so if a wheel were to be off it would go back onto the rail before the gate. I superglued the piece of rail to the track and I have had no issues.
What is the trouble? Is it when the train goes up or down the grade? What is derailing? The engine or the cars, or both. There are so many things that can be wrong. And like the previous reply, you just can’t put a band aid on it. I’ll give you an example. Coming out of a curve going up a grade, a few steam’s front driving wheels would slip off the rail at one spot. It wasn’t quite level so I shimmed just one tie and it solved the problem
JC
Ok you guys! I was trying to burry my head in the sand and hope rerailers will solve the problem. But, ok, sounds like I need to work on the track work itself. Here is the arrangement (brace please I have done all the wrong things). 90 degree LEFT curve of 24" radius on a 2% up grade. Then a 9" Atlas Bridge, followed by a #4 switch that creates a bronch to the right. These two 9" items are level, the bridge maybe has a little grade. Next comes another 90 degree bend with a continuation of the 2% up grade. The total elegant gain is therefore 3"
Where is the derailing problem: first, I had no problem, and now Amtrak super liners (I have three, first none derailed then 1 truck of sleeping car started then another coach started). It’s always the leading truck and it’s always happening when the car leave the switch going downhill (it is a trailing point at this time) and enters the bridge. The bottom half of the grade/curve is ballasted and has been stable for over 6 months.
Thoughts? I am going to look into if shims will make sense.
NP.
Hey Np
Your saying that the only cars giving you the problem are the Amtrak cars? Well That will narrow things down. These super liners are pretty long right? If so They might be having problems negotiating the # 4 turnout. 24" radius sounds good enough for them. A #4 turnout, if I’m not mistaken, has an 18" radius. Going down through that #4 switch, go super slow to try and isolate exactly where its happening. The shimming would be needed if the truck is sliding off one side of the rail. With your hand, push a car that derails to the spot, stop it and, with your hand twist the truck and see if the flanges are firmly on the track. If not a shim might help.
JC
So the super liner is derailing while going thru the straight leg of the #4; at the point somewhere between where it comes of the point rail on to the stock rail (the left wheels are doing this as I am coming down the slope and the #4 is a right turning turnout mounted in trailing point orientation) and the next rail joiner to the bridge.
A couple other cars are doing the same, but I am thinking my Kadee metal wheel conversions are to blame there, something isn’t quite right with that and I need to check and fix.
NP
In addition to the above suggestion, check to see if the track is level horizontally. Uneven track can cause derailments as well as wheels out of gauge and improperly weighted cars.
It’s basically a trial and error process but I’d start with the track first.
Bob