I still haven’t decided how to detail the interior of my last building, so for now I’m starting on the next building. Here’s the CGI mockup I created when I designed the third and fourth buildings: . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
. . . . . . . . This new building will be the fourth for the town of Dos Manos. Photos of the build (so far) begin here: . . . . . . . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#30 . . . . . . . . . . . . As with the previous building, the first story will be quite small, with additional rooms merely suggested by the presence of a door. The second story will be longer and extend past the rear of the first story, to rest on a shelf of rock on the cliff behind the town. . . . . . . . . . . . The building will be made of real stone. Walls that will be hidden from view will only not actually have stone, just reinforced mortar. . . . . . . . . . . . . So far I’ve finished the basic structure of the first story. It’s a simple box shape, tapered slightly at the rear to fit into the angled space on the town site. The front has a single, large rectangular opening where doors and windows will be added later to create a typical storefront. . . . . . . . As with my other stone buildings, I began by building a box-shaped form out of foam core art board. A large piece of 1/2" thick foam core was used as a plug to create the opening at the front of the structure. . . . . . . . . On my last trip to Nevada, I picked up a lot of thin, flat slabs of sandstone. I broke some of these up and shaped them into rough, tiny blocks using tile nippers, then carefully placed them into the form. I also added a narrow accent tile from the hardware store, to simulate a decorative cast iron beam. . . . . . . . Next I added reinforcements – brass rods and
Good start! I can’t wait to see them all together. -Peter
I just finished the basic structure of this building’s second story. Here’s a shot of how the building looks on the town site… . . . . . . . . . . 
. . . . . . Shaping the stones for the window arches was a pain. I started with rectangular marble stones, from a tile sheet I bought at Home Depot. . . . . . . . . . . . The walls were made using sandstone slabs I got in Nevada. . . . . . . . . . . . Photos of the build (so far) begin here: . . . . . . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#39 . . . . . . . . . Next I have to make the doors and windows; the sidewalks, balcony and roof; and then the interiors. … . . . .
Beautiful work Ray. I appreciate the hours that went into pre-placing each stone. I also appreciate the amount of experimenting that went into perfecting the motar consistancy. When I tried it I must have gotten it too thin because my first attempts had serious weep-through that was impossible to clean up after the motar set. Then I got it too thick and most of the stones fell off. I ended up gluing most of the stones back into the set motar which of course doubles the work. Using rough stone has got to work better than smooth pebbles.
I’m looking at doing some stone foundations for my wooden buildings and I’m considering buying some stone strips from Stoneworks as well as their How-to book. Any advice on this idea or am I wasting my money?
Rex
[tup][tup][tup][tup][tup] think that says it all. Another lesson from the “master”
Rex, I think it’s a great idea. As a matter of fact I may be buying some of their stones myself for my next building. BTW, I did end up with a few loose stones on the corners of this building, mainly due to the fact that there was so little space between the arches and the corners. The corners are often difficult to get mortar into, and having limited space there just made it more difficult. I glued them back in using Liquid Nails.
OMG…he said “buy”. Hobby No. 230…lapidary. I’ll saw a few rocks and square 'em off on the diamond lap. [}:)] Seriously, check it out. Google lapidary tools.
GaryR aka Dr. DIY Sorry couldn’t resist.
I googled lapidary tools, and for the price of the cheapest rock saw I found I could buy enough stone strips from Stoneworks to last me a long, long time. I wish I could cut my own, there are a lot of advantages to it. But I just can’t afford it.
Ray I ordered the book “How to Model in Stone and Cement” plus 2 lbs of stone strips. My first project is the foundation around my new school.
Gary I did make a river stone fireplace for my “Grand Hotel” last year. I had all kinds of problems with the smooth pea gravel and the motar consistancy even with all the advice Ray provided both in this forum and in the GR Mag articles. I’m cheap too so buying stone is kinda against my grain but for one time around I’m going to give it a try. Next project I might try the big hammer method and pick out the pieces that fit. I’m not a total newby to stone. I laid a 1,000 sqf flagstone patio that required a significant amount hammer and chisel stone cuts. I have a bunch of sandstone left over from that project but its not the right color for my layout. Sandstone does shape pretty easy though.
Rex
The book and stone I ordered came today from Stoneworks. A quick read discovered that I had been using the wrong material. I used quick setting motar instead of the Quikrete vinyle cement patch and I used the regular concrete process versus the patcher process. Of course mine leaked through and became “hard” within minutes so no way was green cleanup possible. This “Green Cement Modeling Technique” presented in their book makes sense so we’ll see if I can make it work or mess it up like I did before.
Rex
I finally got some more work done on the new building. I built the whole “storefront” assembly – the support structure, door and windows – out of styrene. It’s all painted and weathered. I haven’t glazed the windows yet, I’ll do that later. Here’s a shot of the lower half of the building with the storefront assembly temporarily in place: . . . . . . . . . . . . 
. . . . . . . . . . I haven’t glued the storefront in place yet – I’ll do that after I get the interior built, which is the next step of the project. . . . . . . . If you want to see how the storefront assembly was made, I have a few photos beginning here: . . . . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#72 . . . . . . . After I put in the interior walls and ceiling, I’ll start building the “wood” sidewalk. . . . .
" I googled lapidary tools, and for the price of the cheapest rock saw I found I could buy enough stone strips from Stoneworks to last me a long, long time. I wish I could cut my own, there are a lot of advantages to it. But I just can’t afford it."
Ray
Myself I’d prefer to use a green carbide wet grinding wheel. Grind the back and sides of the stone. The stones are nearly too small to saw safely. And yes, the grinding wheel setup costs about the same as the saw. (If you have to buy it.)
As you may have noticed, I have a large collection of tools, spanning 5 or 6 totality different hobbies. I realized early in life that one day I wouldn’t be able to afford to buy tools. So I’ve collected tools and skills most of my 60+ years.
GaryR
Ray,
Truely a work of art. Thanks for sharing. Will your “wood” sidewalk be cast or will it be made of wood or something else?
Rex
With all those red doors, I’m truly interested in exactly what kind of “storefront” this is going to be.
Thanks! As with my previous buildings, the sidewalk will be simulated wood, using styrene.
I built and installed the interior walls for this section of the building. I even gave them authentic 1910 wallpaper! . . . . . . . . New pics begin here: . . . . . . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#80 . . . . . . . . .
Here’s another brief update… . . . . . . . . . I wasn’t happy with the gaps between the stones, so I filled them with mortar. I mixed a small quantity of mortar, added some “charcoal” pigment to darken it a little, and smeared onto the walls of the building by hand. When I was sure it had been pressed into all the gaps, I carefully rinsed off the excess while lightly rubbing it with my hand. In some areas I also used a soft paintbrush. . . . . . . . . . After the mortar had set, I scrubbed the walls with stiff brush under running water, to remove some of the residue. It still needs a little touch up here and there, but I think it looks a lot better now: . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
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Here’s the latest update… . . . . . . . . I started working on the furnishings for the storefront interior. I built some cabinets with shelves out of styrene. These were “distressed” to look like they’ve been around a long time and have never been refinished. The design and “weathering” were inspired by photos from the J. A. Merriam Drug store in Colorado, which I got from a “No Frills” photo CD on ebay. . . . . . . . . . . Using regular spray paints, I sprayed them with gray primer, then a mist of red-brown primer, and a little bit of light brown. Then I brushed on a reddish-brown mix of Apple Barrel flat acrylics. I used a dark brown mix for the trim. After this had dried, I brushed on a thin wash of artist’s gloss medium, which really gives it a nice varnished look. When that had dried, I chipped and scraped away small bits of the surface paint. Then I went over it with a Scotch-Brite pad. . . . . . . . . . I still have to make the merchandise to fill the shelves. I also have to make some other furnishings, “weather” the interior, add signs and displays, and lights. The false doorway at the rear will have a curtain draped across it. . . . . . . . . . Here’s a shot of the interior with the cabinets temporarily placed in position: . . . . . . . . . . 
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Nice work! I’ve got a couple of questions. I assume the doors are a single piece (upper and lower), or do they open? If they don’t open, how is the merchant supposed to stock the shelves? Just "putzing with ya! I wait with anticipation to see what kind of merchandise you “sculpt” to fill the shelves.
Before I read the text, thought you had taken a picture of a real store interior to model.
As usual, outstanding realism Ray!
Regards, Greg