Does anyone have a good technique for creating uniform inclines using a foam base. I’m leaning toward using foam on my new layout for the sub-roadbed but would like to find a technique for creating inclines for elevation changes. I’m aware of the Woodland Scenics incline products but I’d like to find a cheaper way to do this so that I can create the inclines on my own.
Thanks in advance.
I just cut a piece of foam 2 inches wide and the length of the incline. Then I support it from underneath with trestles. Here’s a somewhat confusing picture of the underside:
If you click on the picture, it will blow up a little and it might be easier to see. The incline here starts in the upper left corner and runs to the bottom center of the picture. The far left of the picture is the lower track level, and the right side is the upper track level.
I tried cutting a ramp out of foam and setting it on the lower level, but it was very hard to get it even on the bottom (for me, anyway) and I abandoned that technique for subsequent inclines.
And here they’ve been arguing for weeks on the LayoutConstruction group in Yahoo on how to do the same thing. How simple and obvious - and the foam won;t bend hard enough to make to abrupt of a transition so the grade should start very smoothy.
What did you cut through the foam with? Looks like not much of a kerf - a knife? Oh never mind, I see it, you didn’t cookie-cutter the main piece of foam, you cut peices from a different sheet and fit them in. The mismatched printing on the foam gives it away [:D]
–Randy
I’ve done ramps with both WS inclines and by cutting them from foam. I’ve even combined the two. The photo below shows, first, the WS incline coming up to 1 inch, then the 1 inch foam, cut into a curve and going up to a bridge.
You just figure the grade that you need, start from the high end and brace it lower and lower, like this
the mainline and passing siding in the foreground in photo below was done the same way, leading to the bridge. But notice over on the right side of the picture is a long grade done with WS inclines only.
You want to try and cut the grade out of one piece of foam and not 2 or 3 as the joints could possibly give you headaches. If I had it to do over again I’d go Woodland Scenics all the way, much easier, faster and just about bullet proof.
JaRRell
Looks like two edge pieces butted together and not cut and bent. for most of my inclines i put the foam between two pieces of wood that were parallel used them as a guide and cut the ramp with a hot wire. Easy and neat. J.R.
Jarrel, I don’t see a single cobweb anywhere…are you doctoring your photos? Nice layout, by the way. Should be a dandy.
I had issues with extruded foam and creating a decent grade on my last layout. Before I had to destroy it, long story, I had decided to carve it out in rough, and to pour plaster of paris along its length and screed it as it dried. That would have made a nice level and planar surface. The easements would have taken some extra care. Sanding or scoring with a wire brush was working for me, but messy and finicky.
I never though to glue the end of a carved piece of the stuff and then flex it up to the grade I wanted. Super idea, easement and all. Mind you, the grade would be modest, maybe 2%, or you might crack the foam, especially if it were curved and only 3" wide. Still…good thinking.
You have a heck of a nice layout there Jarrell. And I LOVE the pictures with you in them, reminds me of the great pictures they used to have in MR back in the day when they had someone, often he proud layout owner, standign on at least one of the shots. Seems these days that’s a no-no, showing anything that could give away the fact that you are looking at a MODEL railroad, and it’s a real shame. Seeing a human in the picture gives a sense of proportion you won’t get from a plan, even one with outlines of people drawn in.
–Randy
My vote goes along the party line with Jarrell…I started making my own incline with the pink foam…but cutting all of the curves I needed got old really fast, so I tore that out and $12.00 and 15 minutes later, I had a 2% grade in place.
Don Z.
First off…Nice looking stuff JeRRel.
And, for what ever it may be worth: I have done the same, making inclines, in places on my pike. And use a 6" to 8" finely cerated (sp?) veggie knife to cut the foam. I have also done a cookie-cutter type method with foam ranging from 1/2" to 1" thick very successfully.
If I really want something REAL straight or a piece cut at a given angle, I use a table saw (a radial arm would work too) to get that very precise cut.
Also have to agree with Don Z…As far as quick and easy…especially an incline going around a curve, the Woodland Scenics inclines can’t be beat!
I have to admit that I’d never thought of doing it that way either, but a friend was over one day (a very good modeler) and I mentioned the problem to him. He told me it was a simple problem and don’t try to make it hard. He quickly cut a curved section of foam (out of two pieces butted end to end which I soon replaced with ONE piece) about 5 or 6 inches wide, located the position of the high end (the bridge area) and braced it up to the correct height using pieces of foam, he located the middle and braced that with half that height and then pinned down the very bottom of the incline in the correct position. He then told me to now brace the intervening areas with little blocks of foam at whatever height it took, at 1/4th of the way up, 3/4ths etc. I think though if I had not used the WS incline at the very bottom to start the grade it would’ve been harder for a novice like me. At first I thought this thing is toooooo flimsey, one good elbow and it’s gone… but after it’s glued down good and the plaster cloth is on it, it’s very sturdy. Not like a plywood incline… you can’t get up on it and boogie woogie, but it does the job well.
Still, if a person want to do it right and quick with that perfect gradual grade and curves, I like Woodland Scenic.
Thanks Randy and Selector for the compliments, I’m trying hard! [:)]
Jarrell
Yup put a pipe in Jarrell’s mouth and it would look like a cover on a 1952 issue of MR. Nice clean work, and a clean well lit work space can make for a happy modeler.
For what it is worth, it is NOT the best foam to use for layout purposes (it releases more dangerous fumes when cut with a hot knife or wire than does WS foam, and the beads get everywhere) but some foam used for packing electronics and appliances has a natural incline built into it that could be adapted for model RR use. That assumes you can modify what you want to the foam that you can get however.
Maybe we in Milwaukee are spoiled. Walthers sell damaged packaging stuff at their headquarters for cheap and as it happens the Woodland Scenics foam must be frequently damaged in shipping so we get it fairly cheaply here. But you cannot count on that of course.
Dave Nelson
Jarrell,
Great pics and excellent progress. I can only hope to achieve what you have. I’m going to do a little experimenting on my 4X8 practice layout with the foam incline methods described here.
I’ll even try the boogie-woogie thing on top of the incline. Hmm…the song “Fool On The Hill” keeps playing in my head.
Thanks for all of the feedback gents. I guess the WS risers are the easiest way to go and they are guaranteed to be at the right angle.
Something I have been using and real cheap, meaning free. Become friendly with your local butcher at the super market. Mine supplies me with the trays that the meats are rapped in and use for building bases, roads,etc. Just make sure they are not the “Beaded kind”.