I have recently become infatuated with Marx tinplate litho trains and prewar Lionel and Amerian Flyer Trains.
Does anybody think it is a good idea to construct my layout with 3 boards for townwns and track connected by planks of wood?
Also, Are Marx switches easy to find ? I know that old Marx (not sure about new) trains can run through Lionel 0-27 switches (i’d perfer t use those, but I can’t).
I need to know if they cann work through Lionel 0-27 switches because if they do, I’d like to use the manual switches (I have a good deal of them) on the layout instead of Marx if possible.
I’ll keep you posted on my Progress in cllecting Prewar, Postwar, and Modern Marx, prewar, postwar, modern Lionel, and Prewar American Flyer, and Lionel Prewar reproducuons. On my layout too.
NIck, I don’t go to shows the way I once did (don’t have the money to spend or I probably would), but yeah, it’s easy enough to find MARX turnouts. I used to see them all the time. I did have some problems with the plastic based MARX turnouts and the newer types of locos, so I stuck with Lionel. But I like the look of the MARX turnouts. As they are, they have a smaller housing than the Lionel onces (which I find myself making major alterations to). Of course, there’s always the on-line for sale boards and ebay too. I’m sure you’ll find MARX turnouts with a little patience.
If you plan to buy Marx engines, Marx switches are probably the best choice. This is because the drive wheel gears on many Marx engines interfere with Lionel switch frogs. They also interfere with the swivel rail on Lionel’s prewar frogless 027 switches.
Like Brianel says, they aren’t difficult to find. You want to fine ones that are solid, work, and clean with minimal rust. This can be challenging. Often times you see boxes of 027 track for $20 at trainshows with a couple Marx switches at the bottom and one might work.
Marx litho tin is neat stuff and can be had fairly cheap and you can have a ball with it. Lionel’s litho tin 027 cars, 4 wheel electrics, and diecast 4 driver steamers can be found at nice prices too.
Marx and pre-war Am. Flyer and Lionel are a blast. It’s what I collect and run on a simple 3’x5" oval layout. The thing to remember or think about is Marx and other tinplate is FAST running and LOUD! Another thing is alot of them don’t run to good. They make alot of noise and can just decide to stop on you. But hey, they’re better than a 1/2 century old, some close to a century, and if they work that’s just a bonus. And they look darn cool too. Bright red, turquiose, green, it’s fun and if you can deal with some scratches and rust, kind of affordable. Wind-ups are a blast too. Nothing like winding up a cast iron engine in your hands!
The Evil Doctor is in !!! Are you looking for marx cars ??? I have some old four wheel & some plastic cars for sale. If you are interested, E-Mail me and I will send you a list.
Till My Next Missive, I Remain The Humble, Yet Evil Doctor !!!
A Marx layout is a great idea. I find Marx items much more affordable. Another source for Marx items that I have used is http://www.trainmarket.com/ - I also recommend you browse http://thortrains.com/
Later Marx motors with reduction gears can make it through modern switches (as Jim Duda demonstrated earlier this year) but a good many of the tinplate locomotives have the older, cheaper, “fat wheel” design. The solution? Use Marx switches, fit newer motors into the Marx locos, or pull your Marx trains with a locomotive of a different make.
I see Marx switches all the time. In fact my introduction to Marx was a pair of switches my Dad had as a kid–his trains were Lionel, but he had Marx switches and a lot of Marx track, probably because it was a lot cheaper. As far as reliability and quality, I have a much harder time finding working control panels than I do good switches. Rust is another common problem but a Scotch-Brite pad and some vinegar does wonders on that. The only thing that really seems to go wrong with Marx switches is the solenoid–you could burn it up by laying on the button for a really long time. I don’t see it often, but I’ve seen it, and most recently on a switch I really needed (grumble grumble). Any other switch would be prone to the same problem. A working pair of Marx switches ought to set you back about $15, sometimes less. If finding working control panels is a problem, you can use modern Atlas HO controllers with them, or rig up your own using momentary pushbuttons from Radio Shack (which is a good way to learn a little bit about electricity and such).
But anyway, yeah, Marx is a great idea. For less than the price of a single 6464 boxcar, you can have a complete Marx set with a nice locomotive (I like the Marx CP-type locos), a few 550-series freights, and one slightly less common car. A set with a 591 locomotive and 550-series freights will run you $40 or less. The most common cars are the 552 gondola, 553 tanker, and 556 caboose. Nice examples of them should only set you back 5 or 6 bucks, and there are lots of variations of them, so you can have some variety on the cheap.
If you like the look of prewar tinplate but don’t have a big budget, Marx
Lehigh’s been awful nasty lately so don’t let it get you down. I admire your fascination for Marx and if you attend shows, you’ll find a lot of great stuff. Dealers often cobble together starter sets for like $35.00 with track and transformer.
I would like to create a Hiawatha similar to the one on the Girard and Oak Park Railroad website. A man made it from an American Flyer champion brand Hiawath locomotive shell and put it on a Marx motor base. He also created an observation like the one on later Hiawathas after steam was taken of the train.
pbjwilson, I like that train in the photo. Now that I think about it, those are the train I am loking for, not Marx, however I would like to create a Hiawath Marx.
I was looking through one of my old issues of CTT. In the December 1996 issue, there is an article on Hafner and American Flyer trains made for sale in Canada.
Hafner’s canadian name was: Canadian Flyer, and American Flyers was called the Dominion Flyer. I would like to find some of these Canadian Flyer and Dominion Flyer trains, and those like the one in pbjwilson’s photo. Where can I find these?
Canadian and Dominion Flyer trains are very nice, but they are also very rare and very expenive! I live in Canada and have yet to see one of these for sale outside of ebay (and they aren’t too common on ebay either). These are in very high demand from collectors and the prices reflect that. Individual Canadian or Dominion Flyer cars will run maybe $300 each for the not as rare ones and $500 or even $700 each for the rarest of variations (you could actually build up a fairly large collection of all the different variations out there). They’re not exactly a train for someone on a budget and they aren’t too common in the US. Of course you always could get lucky and find one someplace cheap, but don’t count on it.
Simmilar non-Canadian trains are much more common and affordable, but some can still be pretty pricey. Hafner Overlad Flyer trains are quite collectable and many of the cars are $100 and up. Most simmilar American Flyer trains aren’t quite as expensive, though and could be obtained more reasonably. Also keep in mind that the engines in the Canadian sets are the same as the US ones, so you can at least have that part of the sets. This topic was originally about Marx and as others have said, many Marx trains are very common and cheap. Prewar AF and Hafner sets are fantastic and I’m not discouraging you from trying to get them or to start collecting them, but just keep in mind that you could probably get at least three Marx sets for the price of one prewar AF clockwork set. If you want to collect these, go for it, but be prepared to spend some cash.
In repsonse to what Dave said about control panels for Marx switches, the type of sliding control used for HO, N, and American Flyer Pikemaster switches should work well, and is readily available. You can probably find a box of them for a little of nothing at a train show. They can also be daisy-chained together quite easily to reduce wiring clutter on your control panel.
The type I am speaking of are the ones with the slide switch. You slide the control over to the opposite position, and press down. They have two power in wires, to power out wires to connect to another identical control, and three wires to go to the switch. These three also connect to the coresponding terminals on the Marx switch.
You could also use American Flyer controllers. Connect the black wire to center, and the red and green to the two outer terminals. Tape the yellow wire over, or clip stripped end off of it. The American Flyer controls, although less common, have the advantage of direction indicator light bulbs.
As you probably know, Hummer sets were American Flyer’s cheaper line of trains that they sold under that name in order not to cheapen the American Flyer name. Besides the Hummers, American Flyer earlier sold a generic “Empire Express” set, which was the same as the Hummers, but without the Hummer name. Hummer trains are no more common than other American Flyer trains of the same time. In fact, they’re probaby harder to find. Because they were so cheaply made, a much smaller percentage survived than other trains. This makes them quite valuable and desireable. While prices will obviously vary from set to set depending on rarity and condition for both Hummer and AF, overall Hummer sets aren’t really any cheaper.