Yes it is gone…has been around 2013/14. There was a thread on it about that time on the forums. You could actually find the thread faster by using Google. A lot of distributors had quite a few cases of it until it ran out. Like a lot of other things that are no longer made.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
EDIT:
Dave Nelson posted this on Jan 22, 2013: From the other thread I was referring to:
TENAX 7R
Posted by dknelson on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:51 PM
For those of you who liked using Tenax as a bonding agent for styrene and have noticed it is not readily found at the LHS, I received the following email the other day from JMD Plastics of Green Bay WI
Dave Nelson:
As many of you may know, it has been impossible to get the highly popular TENAX 7R plastic welder for use in gluing together styrene models, sheets, etc…Ironically, this product was distributed by Hebco, just down the road from us near LaCrosse, Wisconsin. At one point, they even asked us for 10,000 pieces of styrene so they could demonstrate their product at shows they attended. Well, their e-mail, phone, etc…is no longer in service. And good luck finding a back stock of TENAX at any hobby shop or even on E-Bay! (I know–we tried—and bought up as many bottles as we could find!)
That being said, we have been working with the same folks who helped us to bring our Instant Track-T
I only use the liquid cement for bonding flat pieces edge to edge and prefer gel cements for everything else. I used my last bottle of Tenax up several years ago and I’ve heard about the Micro Mark products, MEK and the rest of them. Right now, the only liquid cement I have is Testors liquid cement for plastics/styrene. Has anyone used this product and if so, what are your thoughts? I have only used the Testors product on a limited basis, not enough to really form an opinion. Also, How will this work on Plastruct parts?
I just did Weld-on is available as I just bought some last week. They did change the label but thats it, Weld-on is in smaller print with another name in bold but told it is same stuff, bought it from a plastics store.
Sometimes working time can be needed, but I found in the case of joining the walls of my ADM Grain elevator, Tenax7R, I could hold the parts together, brush it on from the inside, and it would be almost instant so I didn’t have to sit there holding it for very long. Thats one of the hard parts about building some kits is holding parts until they are bonded.
In another case, last weekend I thought I’d finally try to build the end-cages for the Walthers 53’ GSC flat car bulkheads. In that case I tried liquid super glue which normally bonds pretty fast, and I never did get the parts together properly. I have repeated attempts to simply get two of the parts together, first ended up bonded at the wrong angle, pulled them apart and tried seveal more times. After two hours, I still only ended up with two of the cage parts together and with a substancial visible gap between them. I can see why so few Walthers 53’ GSC bulkhead flat cars have been built as bulkheads. What few I’ve seen built that way didn’t look so hot.
In addition to what was recommended, I have used Microscale’s MicroPrep as directed along with CA. It does a pretty good job, I have used it to replace handrail sections.
I pulled out my old bottle of Tenax 7R to work on a Lonestar 40’ flat bed trailer kit and it was bone dry. The lid was cracked so that much have been enough to allow what was in the bottle to escape and evaporate.
I’ve ordered a bottle of Plastruct Plastic Weld off of Ebay since it was highly recommended by our friend Frank in a post above.
I needed something to replace the Tenax that I could brush on to bond plastic.
Tenax 7R seems to have gone the way of the dodo. However, the Micro mark Same Stuff is, pretty literally, the same stuff. Procey? It’s cheaper than Tenax was. There’s also Plastruct Bondene which I’ve used and works pretty much the same. Plastruct has 2 different adhesives that, other than the color of the bottle, look identical. They are not. One is for their plastic that they use in their structural shapes, the Bondene is for styrene plastic.
I have a habit of keeping things, so after I read this post, I looked in the box that I would put the Tenax-7r’s lid when the bottle became empty one way or another. (IIRC my first bottles had lids with a brush attached). Wow I wonder what I can use all those lids for? Cheapest one has $2.69 on it up to $4.49. I’m still using out of my 2-3-11 stock at $4.49. I looked at my last in stock date of 3-2-12 still at a cost of $4.49. I do have and use a number of the above mentioned glues. I guess I need to see which ones I should over stock up on. Thanks for the infomation guys. Even bringing up an old post is still informative.
Accually it was a copy of Pro Weld by Ambroid which dissapeered before the Tenax. Personally never liked the Tenax, not as much bite as I like. Loved the Pro Weld but since it is gone use Weld-on 3. A bit stronger but works about the same.
The information is the same. Why have 50 threads talking about the same thing get repeated over and over instead of simply adding to the existing thread? How many threads are there here on installing aa DCC decoder in a blue box loco? What does starting a new one have over adding somethign new to one of the existng ones where all the things have been explained already - if you have a new technique, add it to the existing one, so someone searchign for BB DCC installs will find allt he info in one place, not spread across dozens of threads.
“Me too” posting to old threads - that’s somethign compeltely different. In the case of this thread, information on another possibel alternative cement was added Also some updated information on availability of some other alternatives previously mentioned int he old thread. I don;t think that’s a bad thing.
Heck, 99% of this hobby is the same thing over and over, with new and updated techniques to accomplish certain goals If the question’s already ben asked and answered, just use some common sense, not likely someone will care to see a new solution 10 years after the original post, by now the OP has either applied one of the already suggested solutions, or given up. But this thread is not particularly old, and finding adhesives is still a pretty important part of constructing models.
Maybe it’s the way I read forums liek this - in date order of latest post, with any thread with unread posts filtered to the top. I read all the ones of interest to me, so when I am caught up, there generally aren;t any unread posts showign on the first page. I’m here frequently enough that it’s unlikely that new posts are on the second page - I’ll check if the very last thread on the first page has unread posts, AND it’s below the last one that I’ve compeltely read. That’s my indicator for particularly high volume. I don;t read every post, I only read threads th
I’ve found it bonds adquately as well, but mainly in situations where I can apply it from the inside with a small brush, but on the outside, it’s too easy, due to the lack of viscosity to get it on surfaces and marr the paint or lettering on the model. Thats why I use different adhesives in different applications.