Is Tenax-7R Plastic Welder Still Being Made?

[railandsail]

Jumijo

When bonding styrene to styrene, they do the job more than adequately.

I’ve found it bonds adquately as well, but mainly in situations where I can apply it from the inside with a small brush, but on the outside, it’s too easy, due to the lack of viscosity to get it on surfaces and marr the paint or lettering on the model. Thats why I use different adhesives in different applications.

I agree with most of your postings on this subject thread. And I am glad it continues as it brings new light to substitute ahesives.

I was a Tenax user and I liked the way it flowed into the smallest gaps, and its speed of setiing up.

I believe it would have served me well in my recent attemps to bond styrene strips int the guide rail gaps / flangeways on Peco turnouts. The stuff I used took too long to set up, allowing the styrene strip to soften ever so little with the resulting no-bonding of a portion of the strip due to its wedged toothpics losing their grip.

I liked the old Tenax 7 and have NOT discovered a replacement,…but then I have been away from that portion of the hobby since it went out of business,…and my case of the stuff all evaporated without the bottles even being opened!

[mbinsewi]

I believe it would have served me well in my recent attemps to bond styrene strips int the guide rail gaps / flangeways on Peco turnouts. The stuff I used took too long to set up, allowing the styrene strip to soften ever so little with the resulting no-bonding of a portion of the strip due to its wedged toothpics losing their grip.

I don’t know what type of plastic the flangeways are, but wouldn’t a quick setting CA work better?

How did the guy in the video fasten the brass strips? or does the loop on each end hold them in place?

Mike.

[railandsail]

I think he utilized both the loops on the end of the metal strips and some CA. I received some good advice on application of CA on that other tread, and now feel more confident with CA use. It might also be nice to not have to have the loops on some of those metal shims in cases where the guard rails are a bit short,…extend the wing of the shim.

[railandsail]

Ethyl Acetate

This stuff came highly recommended on another forum, but I found it did not act as quickly as the old Tenax. Neither did the Plastruck Weld when I tried it a number of years ago.

There were those times that I liked the really quick action of the Tenax. If I recall properly I had (still have in my storage somewhere) a long capillary tube for application.

[railandsail]

[quote user=“zstripe”]

Yes it is gone…has been around 2013/14. There was a thread on it about that time on the forums. You could actually find the thread faster by using Google. A lot of distributors had quite a few cases of it until it ran out. Like a lot of other things that are no longer made.

Take Care!

Frank

EDIT:

Dave Nelson posted this on Jan 22, 2013: From the other thread I was referring to:

TENAX 7R
Posted by dknelson on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:51 PM

For those of you who liked using Tenax as a bonding agent for styrene and have noticed it is not readily found at the LHS, I received the following email the other day from JMD Plastics of Green Bay WI

Dave Nelson:

As many of you may know, it has been impossible to get the highly popular TENAX 7R plastic welder for use in gluing together styrene models, sheets, etc…Ironically, this product was distributed by Hebco, just down the road from us near LaCrosse, Wisconsin. At one point, they even asked us for 10,000 pieces of styrene so they could demonstrate their product at shows they attended. Well, their e-mail, phone, etc…is no longer in service. And good luck finding a back stock of TENAX at any hobby shop or even on E-Bay! (I know–we tried—and bought up as many bottles as we could find!)

That being said,