Hi guys I could use some help here with finishing this area of the addition I put in for the trestle area. Obviously I’m a pretty straight forward wood worker and not much in the creative pirdy looking wood finishing. Some day I will add a lower curtain to the benchwork to make the bottom look nice, not really feeling the hardboard application to the benchwork but you never know what the furure may temp t me into doing. When I added the lower area to the benchwork I had no idea where I was going with it let alone have it flow with the existing higher benchwork. I’ve added quite a few photos to try to give the idea of the area. For the trestle area the top of the hill area for the trestle I want to come to same elevation as the curved rail. For the isle side of the hill I’m not sure if I want a flat back or a slope back down toward the isle. I hope I can give enough imformation here that you guys can help me out on how to finish this area.
This is the construction before I started adding the roughed in terrain to give a clear picture. I don’t have a clear pic with just the wood construction from the more problemed end.
To the top of the foamboard block is about as high as the hill needs to go.
First off I would do it in foam, any foam. Get a WS hot wire foam cutter and slice and dice till you get to what you want, allow for an castings when you figure the shape. Cover with plaster cloth, done. Need to add some more just add foam and plaster over, in fact I have cut additional foam to shape, took it off layout to plaster cloth, put back on layout and blended in (this was because the area was already finished but didn’t like the shape Note: basic ground cover done off site too to cut down on mess).
I would box in the sides and ends with panneling or masonite. Build up the framing as necessary. That way all the benchwork gets covered and smoothed out. Cut it to form the terrain contour that you want. Then use cardboard strips to make a lattice type form. This way you will be able to see the basic shape and change it if necessary or if you don’t like it. Then you can lay plaster cloth over it for the final scenery layer. Sort of like the photo below.
Thanks for the reply’s
rrebell its not so much the shape of the hill but more finished the sides and front ie what to use and how to get there and making it look right with the main benchwork.
Elmer this may be the way I have to go, I have lots of 1x4 laying around to build up the benchwork to match with the exiting main benchwork. Your drawing does help.
Lynn, In Elmer’s diagramed layout, those outlined sides would work cut out from plywood. You first need to figure the method of buildup. I would use the cardboard lattice as shown, We tend to “over kill” build for benchwork and scenery base for the club, but 3/8 0r 1/2" ply used as a sub facia can be cut to the scenery contours for both sides and from quite similar to what Elmer drew. A masonite or MDF finished facia can be traced and added to the outside. I like to keep the finished facia about 3/8 to 1/2’ above to allow scenery thickness and to smooth out any radical scenery shapes to more flowing pleasing lines (top finished cut of facia) . If you want to stack foam, you can just add the finished facia and build up the foam to it. Do remember to allow for thickness in covering the foam, w/ you perfered Sculpanold, ground goop or plaster. I have torn out a few areas due to not allowing for the buildup.
Here you can see the “subfacia” and the green finished facia (you don’t need 3/4 ply- the overkill)
Bogp40 thanks for some great examples, I really never gave any thought to a sub facial, I would imagine the sub facia would make it much easy as well to then finish with the brown hardboard type which I have always had my second thoughts about trying because of the lack if support behind it and or missing a support with the screw and making a mess. Thanks by the way some really nice scenery on your layout.
Dave, those are Cripplebush rubber rock molds, a bit pricy but well worth the effort. Took a bit of playing w/ the substrate and filling to allow contours. Chunks of foam hot glued to base, the jigsawed cutting/ fitting of the panels is most critical. I stated w/ blending WS castings but had to rip it out, just couldn’t match the “Santa fe” shale from Cripplebush, just blended additional panel to conform to the bend.
Lynn, In Elmer’s diagramed layout, those outlined sides would work cut out from plywood. You first need to figure the method of buildup. I would use the cardboard lattice as shown, We tend to “over kill” build for benchwork and scenery base for the club, but 3/8 0r 1/2" ply used as a sub facia can be cut to the scenery contours for both sides and from quite similar to what Elmer drew. A masonite or MDF finished facia can be traced and added to the outside. I like to keep the finished facia about 3/8 to 1/2’ above to allow scenery thickness and to smooth out any radical scenery shapes to more flowing pleasing lines (top finished cut of facia) . If you want to stack foam, you can just add the finished facia and build up the foam to it. Do remember to allow for thickness in covering the foam, w/ you perfered Sculpanold, ground goop or plaster. I have torn out a few areas due to not allowing for the buildup.
I used masonite for my sides and filled in the space between the masonite and plasterwork with WS filler and then ground cover over all. I have not painted the masonite yet, but when I do it will get a light sanding and then painted leaving the grondcover over the top of the masonite. Makes a rock solid edge that is hard to damage.
Ok now I know masonite is the hardboard I was referring to, brown and shiny, I used it to box in my duck work in the other train room. The plywood is the pressed together stuff. What thickness of masonite is used for around corners to make them curved as well what is the trick to getting a nice corner edge with two pieces of masonite meeting?
I don’t know that Masonite is available in too many different thicknesses and you would want the thinnest, as that would be the easiest to form.
I looked over the title of this thread, Lynn, started reading and looking at your photos and wondered what the problem was, as I felt you were doing a great job!
Someone told you to use foam, any foam and I wonder why? The “Cardboard Lattes Work System” is easy to work with and flexible, allowing you to force it into various shapes to fit your contour. Foam works too. I should think foam would take a couple sheets to fill in your contours with and foam isn’t free like cardboard!
I have used foam very little in the construction of my layout which was begun slightly before foam became so popular. However, I can see where foam has some advantages in some applications; or, locations. I just don&rs
I squared or angle together mine. Spackle that you use for fixing woodwork is what I used to fill any small gaps (the little shrinking goes on pink dries white stuff). I used 1/4" or what used to be that but now is smaller just like lumber. True masonite works best with the dull side out, best if you prime it too because you will normally get water on it as you finish your scenery. I did one curved backdrop and used very thin masonite there. Don’t remember where you are from but out here in California we can no longer get the real water resistant stuff like they can elsewhere, hey I had to use beaded foam as the other stuff is rare out here (which is another reason I had to cover the sides). I attached the masonite with a carpet stapler because I had one laying around that I got for a project that never happened in the 1 to 1 world.
Yes Mark I do agree the lattice/cardboard works quite well and all I find that the use of grocery bags filled with crumpled paper stuffed under the area of the latice helps for support until the plaster cloth is layed over the latice. I do try to use foamboard here and there but where there is an extreme rise in elevation needed I will use risers first to cut the cost somewhat.
Lion that is my plan to complete rear to forward but at this point I need to get the sides and front boxed in so I can join the back plaster work to the sides of the hill and so forth.
rrebell it never even dawned on me to use a wood filler before priming and painting also I would imagine painters caulking would be another good filler before paint.
By the way I’m from Ontario Canada and the masonite seems to be easily available here in what you refer to as the smaller metric sizes.
Thanks guys nite shift is finished and have 4 days off so I think I have enough ammo to move forward with this now.
By the way in the photo I posted you can see in the upper left the masonite type I used as a finish on the furnace duck work framing I did, this is the stuff I have left over. ya I know it looks terrible.
I use caulk alot but not here as it shrinks and you want a sandable base too which is hard to do with caulk (had some bigger fill in spaces at the top in some places and put some caulk in there and stuffed in foam scrap so I wouldn’t need as much of the WS stuff which is expencive).
You got the idea, dry fit the tressle and view the scene. You will most likely find that the OSB (your 'chipboard") sides will work better by angling the sides down a bit sharper and “S” curve to the corner. This will allow a continuation of the front piece making the 90 degree turn appear continuous from varying angles rather that too much of a boxed look. Allow the scenery cuts of the sub facia to sweep “french curve” rather than sharp cuts. the same can be done on the front. Drop the sweep off the corner and dive in an S cut to the lowest level for the front horizonal.
I use caulk alot but not here as it shrinks and you want a sandable base too which is hard to do with caulk (had some bigger fill in spaces at the top in some places and put some caulk in there and stuffed in foam scrap so I wouldn’t need as much of the WS stuff which is expencive).
Thanks I never thought of sanding part but more of the just before paint part.
I did get something together with the wood I had kicking around .Probably as usual over kill but …
You got the idea, dry fit the tressle and view the scene. You will most likely find that the OSB (your 'chipboard") sides will work better by angling the sides down a bit sharper and “S” curve to the corner. This will allow a continuation of the front piece making the 90 degree turn appear continuous from varying angles rather that too much of a boxed look. Allow the scenery cuts of the sub facia to sweep &qu
