ny suggestions out there? thanks a bunch guys.
What’s the problem? Too stiff?
yeah,that’s it. there’s just no give in them. any ideas bob???
tiny drop of Slick 50 One Lube [or any other synthetic oil] in the “jaws”. Fi they are the die cast sprung trucks, I put a very tiny amount on the axle ends. Cars will fly then.
New K-line ones are fine…
Just a friendly tip; If youve got a problem, let us know some specififcs
Try a dry graphite lubricant. It stays with the coupler and shouldn’t trip on the center rail.
I have had trouble with K-Line Couplers matching with MTH and Lionel, but the worst coupler was on an MTH. The casting was completely wrong and it did not work.
As said above Easter, you need to let us know the specific problem and the specific type of coupler/truck you are referring to. K-Line has had several variations over the years: the all plastic truck/coupler (still used on low end items), the original sprung die-cast truck with plastic coupler arm (used 'til about 1996), the revised die cast truck with all metal sprung coupler arm (originals didn’t work that well, K-Line must have made modifications… newer ones work better) AND then there’s the Timken style diecast truck used on the Train-19 Series Cars which I think is the best one K-Line has made.
I will warn you in advance, as hinted to above, that couplers from various importers of trains don’t always work well with eachother. Industrial Rail made a very nice truck, but unfortuantely it doesn’t always couple well with K-Line cars for example.
On the older K-Line truck with the plastic coupler arm, the plastic is a little still and sometimes instead of uncoupling, the entire arm pulls down out of the diecast coupler assembly. You need to pu***he arm back into the diecast coupler assembly and the carefully give the plastic coupler arm some very slight bends downward… not too much because you can break it. What you want to do is “break in” the plastic so it bends a little easier. This method has worked very well for me with the K-Line die cast trucks with the plastic coupler arm.
Also depending on your problem, you can use a Dremel Tool with a narrow grinding bit and take down the size of the moving couple knuckle, or girnd down the inside opening of the actual coupler assembly so that there is more space inside the closed knuckle.
Anyways, I too have had problems in the past with this sort of thing, and have decided it’s best to just fix it myself. And once I do, the problems go away.
The worse ones I have are on MTH cabooses or Williams box cars. The MTH’s will not hold to the center [center up right] and the Williams will not uncouple from a Lionel uncoupler track. My K-Lines are jsut hard to close. You have to give them a little “bang” with the engine when you just get to the knuckle. OH Buckeye, only people from OHIO would put enough to drip on the center rail [I used the word tiny]. [;)]
chief eagles, lionelsone, lehigh, buckeye,brianel. thank you all for your input. with all the advice,Im bound to get it right. i’ll get those couplers working.
I quit buying K-Line cars because of their couplers. They fixed them too late, they can keep their product.
The only problem I have is that some cars have the couplers fixed solid to the trucks. It causes derailment in s-curves or 027, but the rest works great…
The only thing that worked for me is to replace the release button portion of the uncoupler on the truck, if it still don’t work change them out to older Lionel couplers.
Some more fixes for K-Line couplers in addition to what I’ve said above:
Some of the early plastic truck versions had a knuckle where the “plastic spring” piece that extends off the knuckle itself breaks very easily. Remove the knuckle pin and replace the knuckle with a Lionel plastic type… this works fine and fixes that problem.
Some of the first versions of the K-Line diecast truck that had the all-metal sprung armature had a pin that was too thick. The pin I refer to is the one off the armature that fits up into the knuckle and keeps it closed. Use a Dremel tool and grind down the thickness of this pin and that will cure that problem.
Another problem happens as Daan stated, especially with cars of different manufacturers, is that the cars derail on curves AND especially on “S” curves. Take the 2 offending cars off the track and put them on the floor coupled. Then turn the trucks as if the cars were going around a curve and you will see the problem: The open space when the coupler is shut is not large enough to accomodate the other coupler. Here it depends on the maker of the truck, but I find one way or another the opening needs to be enlarged. You can Dremel out the entire inside opening a little with emphasis on the outer side of the coupler opposite of where the knuckle pin is. You can also Dremel down the inner side of the knuckle itself.
The other thing to not get confused about on derailments, is that loose truck mountings by my assessment are the number one cause of derailments (even bfore bad track). The truck wobble is probably more of a concern on 027 curves and 031 curves. The rivet pins used by Lionel and K-Line both allow the trucks to dangle and wobble from the car body. Even the Industrial Rail cars have a little bit of truck wobble because of the height of the nub that goes up into the plastic frame of whatever car.
I drill out and replace all rivet mounted trucks with a blackened screw with a stop nut or a lock nut. Now I can r