Could someone please provide me with the product numbers for the low profile k-line switches for 027 track? I understand that these switches are preferable to lionel. Also, if anyone knows of a good supplier. Thanks.
Larry
LH = K-0265 and RH = L-0266
Off hand don’t know of any good places to buy them.
O-27:
K-0263 O-27 27" Manual Switch LH
K-0264 O-27 27" Manual Switch RH
K-0265 O-27 27" Remote Switch LH
K-0266 O-27 27" Remote Switch RH
For the 42" path O-27 switches:
K-0273 O-27 42" Manual Switch LH
K-0274 O-27 42" Manual Switch RH
K-0275 O-27 42" Remote Switch LH
K-0276 O-27 42" Remote Switch RH
Rob
Tower hobbies lists them, don’t know it they still have them.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=UKP&P=WR
John
Rob - please double check your numbers, I check my boxes and it shows
LH remote 027 = K-0265
RH remote 027 = K-0266
these also agree with thier catalog.
That is correct - I did know this and typed all the numbers wrong up one!
I do use the 275/276 switches and love them. With 5 on our Christmas layout this year, I did not have to use any lockons except for the elevated trolley loop. I made all power & common connections right at the binding posts provided!
Rob
I just thought I’d pass this on.We had trouble with our 042 K-line switches.These were early ones and they would not wire correctly.When talking to K-line we were told they had a bad batch from the factory and we should just keep trying diffrerent combinations of wires until they worked.We had two of them and they both ended up wired diffrently but worked well for two years before we remade our layout.
Ed
I use the new style 042 switches as crossovers between my 042 in 054 loops. I think they work great. One thing that will drive you nutz if you’re used to traditional Lionel switches - the controllers are “handed” left and right! And you can’t mix them. They will not work properly. You can’t control both a left and a right switch with one controller. The controllers are marked with small, but unmistakable white letters on the bottom. You have been warned. Oh, and the 042 switches can’t be arranged “out to out” as a direct crossover. There has to be a short straight between the two. These comments apply directly to the “O” version, but I suspect the 027 is similar.
Old 2037
Just turn the three wire flat cable over just before wiring to the switch… viola! You changed your RH controller to a LH controller!
Lionel used the center conductor for common, K-Line used one of the outside conductors, right for LH switches, Left for RH switches. The other two can be switched with each other to your preference… so you can use one controller for two switches if you desire.
Rob
I got my K-line 027 switches at Wholesaletrains.com. Just do not try to change your order after you start.
Jim H
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Just turn the three wire flat cable over just before wiring to the switch… viola! You changed your RH controller to a LH controller!
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Actually, you just wired your RH controller backwards. Maybe your switches are different, but mine, while they will allow you to turn the wires over, and the switch will operate, the signals will be backwards, that is, the LEDs on the switch and the controller will not agree. Not on my railroad. I have a hard enouh time keeping my trains on the tracks as it is. Red is “out” - green is “through”.
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Lionel used the center conductor for common, K-Line used one of the outside conductors, right for LH switches, Left for RH switches. The other two can be switched with each other to your preference… so you can use one controller for two switches if you desire.
Rob
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Again, your switches may be different, but the center binding post on the switch is clearly marked “GR” - and again, you can futz with the wires all you want - but the indicators will not agree, or the switch will oscillate at 60hz. I suspect this is the way it is because K-Line went to LEDs in the controller. You can’t simply swap the red and green lenses like you can on the classic Lionel controllers (and the older K-Line controllers), and maybe they do not want people operating the switches with the signal lights backwards. That’s whay they’re “handed” now.
Just to clarify, these are the latest production 042 “O” gauge switches purchased about three months ago. They have a low-profile, DZ-1000 look-alike switch machine, with led indicators. They are only shown in the 2005 vol.1 printed catalog - the photos on the K-line website are not correct for the latest production. The 027 and O gauge versions look almost identical in the catalog.
Back to the topic - try Train Express in Indy for the switches. That’s where I found mine at an excellent price with fast, fri
Old 2037,
You are correct on the controllers! I have 12-13 pairs of the K-275/K-276 switches, and they are all the traditional solenoid/bulb type w/ the 022 type controllers… except for 1 LED type pair which you made me dig out and bring them to the test bench.
For the last 15 years or so I’ve used K-Line switches, I’ve never used the controllers! I always have had them on fixed voltage, in reverse loops, &/or wired to SC-1s.
On the LED (“DZ” type) models, they work just like the others, & 022s, for the non-derailing feature, but the “switched to ground” current for the machine is the DC power for the controller LEDs and a small logic bridge in the controller, resulting in dedicated left & right controllers.
On both types, the center conductor is common(goes to “GR” terminal), the outsides for through/out. If you hook up the controller with the through/out wires switched on the LED models, the switch sees both the through & out terminals shorted to ground, and the switch will oscillate between the two positions… the higher the voltage the faster.
The terminals/binding posts on both types, left & right, are the same - from the switch motor out they are ground, through, out, fixed voltage, track voltage.
You can use the 022 type bulb controllers on the newer LED switches, but you have to take the bulbs out, and then they work fine.
Rob