I have a question regarding the Kadee #148 couplers, has anyone used these yet, what do you think of them, and do they fit any standard coupler pocket? I saw the advertised on page 20 of Jan 06 MRR. Are they better to work than the standard #5 coupler. Cost is an irrelevant issue to me.
I bought the only two packs my LHS had in stock. Thought I would give them a try on a pair of Bowser hopper cars. They are easier to fit together since they don’t have the bronze spring to worry about but they have a fine wire on each side and you really have to look to make sure they are down in the coupler pocket. The spring action seems to be faster acting than the #5 couplers. I think they will fit anywhere a #5 will fit. Going to use the other set on a Atlas and a BLI engine to see how they work there. Hope to try them on a uncoupling ramp this evening. Jim
My experience is limited to 2 pairs of these couplers, but the results have been good. I initially installed one pair on an Athearn car, and the other pair on a car with an unusual talgo hitch; all worked well. Later, I transferred the couplers to a pair of Athearn DD40X engines. The Kadee recommended coupler conversion for a DD40X calls for serious modifications to the coupler pockets, and the installation of coupler #38. The #148 coupler dropped in without any modification; and so far, all is working well. I agree with chessiecat above, you must watch those fine wire springs during the installation.
i just bought three packages yesterday, don’t know yet , I’m looking forward to replacing some couplers on some Athearn RTR.
I used them on a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 tender. Kadee maintains this tender would accept a #5. It wouldn’t, popped in the #148 and bingo back on track. Put 'em on an Atlas covered hopper, Proto 1000 RS2 and Trainline FA pilot. All installations a piece of cake.
The coupler action is a lot like 30 series-easy movement side to side on Kadee uncouplers without the hassle of the #5’s bloody spring. Sometimes after mounting a #5 I’ve put the unit back on track and the spring isn’t doing its full thing side to side and returning to center position. #148’s are much more consistent to get proper coupler action. [tup] [tup] [tup]
Oh, be sure and placate Kadee’s lawyers and exercise proper caution with the coupler’s whiskers. We don’t want any injured hobbyists out there. I’m considering heating one up to the temperature of scalding hot coffee and dropping it in my lap. What did that plaintiff get from MacDonald’s, $400K? The story will be that I had the coupler out of the package sitting on a shelf where it was exposed to the sun and after several hours…[:D] [:D] [;)]
Go with 'em they’re great. Kadee did good. [bow] [bow] [bow]
Jon
I installed the 148’s on six different cars so far. As was mentioned make sure both wires are free. It is a bear to see because they are so tiny. One whisker seems to like to hang up in the end of the coupler. Other than that I think I will use only the 148’s in the future. One less tiny piece to fumble.
Terry[8D]
David,
I have tried 'em and I love 'em. I actually posted a topic after I installed my first pair, but
the forum search won’t let me find it. Anyway, they are(so far) very nice. Easy to install and
center themselves everytime. Dave
And they fit in the #5 box?
Thank you for your replies, I will give them a try and if they work well that will be my change over coupler, I am concerned with what you have to say about the wire wiskers but we will try them.
I have #148’s installed in about 20 cars so far. Much easier to install than #5’s.
So far I have found no reason to not install more of them.
I will be replacing my 5’s as they wear out, break, etc.
Reading from these post, I have to get the # 148 couplers, I have some cars that have poor working couplers.