I’m thinking of putting some of the Kadee electromagnetic uncoupler ramps on my main line tracks. Has anyone ever installed one of these? Can they be installed on existing tracks, or do you have to take up the track and work from below. From the picture, it looks like they have both a between-the-rails plate and a below-ground magnet. Can you just cut out a few ties, punch a hole through the roadbed and foam, and drop the thing in?
I have not got that far on my layout yet, but I had questions about Kadee couplers and they were extremely helpful, both via phone and email…give them a shot if you don’t get answers here.
I’m curious about automatic uncouplers myself. Do they uncouple every time a train passes over them or is there a button you press to uncouple? For Kadee couplers.
Kadee electomatic uncoupling ramps should be in stalled as you are doing your track work, its tough to put them in existing track because a hole has to be cut in the roadbed and sub roadbed . I would suggest taking up the existing track and go from there, you can try cutting the existing ties and make the hole, I did for one and it was a bit of a chore, so I’m not recomending it. I almost forgot to mention that I model in N , as for HO perhaps the track may be large enough to make it easier to install in exsisting track.
Radioman2[:D]
Dingiox, as to your question about automatic uncoupling ramps , they uncouple when you stop the coupler over them and slacken the tension , then pull forward the magnet does the work. the tension on the couplers as you run your train over them keeps them from uncoupling . There is no button to push because there is no electricity involved with the magnet . The electromagnetic uncouplers need electricity applied to them to make them work, the same as the magnet cranes in a junk yard.hope this helps Rm2
So you’d back up to take the tension out of the couplers and they’d uncouple? If that’s the case I need them in my yard.
I am in the process of installing a electromagnetic now…I have it pre-assembled,I mark it’s position on the existing track by laying it face down on top of it and use a marking pen to mark the track ends.Use a Dremel cut-off disc to cut through the existing track.I made a cardboard template of the area that the magnet needs ,match up the center lines,use the template to outline the area,drill connecting 1/4 or 3/16" holes (I guess you could use a jig saw) file down the rough opening and drop in the track/magnet assembly then solder on the rail joiners…It goes quickly after you do a couple
I hadn’t heard of “electromagnetic” Kadee uncouplers, just simple magnets. I’m intending to use the under-the-track Kadee (actual MicroTrains, I’m modeling in N) magnet. What is the advantage of using an electromagnet? I understand that it would let you turn on/off the magnetic field, but the constant magnetic field of a simple magnet doesn’t seem like it would be a problem since you have to deliberately stop right above it and back up a bit to create the necessary tension for an uncoupling to occur. The only problem I’ve stumbled on with the magnet is that it influenced a LifeLike caboose I have --there was a metal plate inside for weight, so I removed that and replaced it with some fishing lead sinkers. (Most all of my rolling stock is MicroTrains, which do not have any magnetized parts other then the couplers, so that problem shouldn’t repeat itself.)
The between the rails uncoupler device is designed to work with code100 rail. Smaller rail will place the device too high, and you have to file the spike heads down to get the height right.
The under rails coupler runs right at a quarter inch thick, and is wider than the ties, call it 1.24" by 1.25". It’s easiest to remove the track to install it. The height of this device is not as critical, but too far below the rails and it won’t work.
Putting the devices on a mainline is risky, because accidental uncouplings do happen. A spur or yard is a better place. You need to think out the placement of these carefully. Uncouple before a sharp curve, and the cars will recouple going around the curve. Place the uncoupler where it falls between cars when you’re picking up other spotted cars, and you’ll have to fight to get out of there with every train intact. Too close to the end of the spur and you won’t be able to spot the cars you need to. Get the placement right, use the $3 gauge to get the height perfect, and they work pretty well.
is this the uncoupler magnet? http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/dto/item380-308.html
or this http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/dto/item380-321.html
dingoix
I have done a few of these but it has been a while. I assume you are referring to the #307. If you look at the side view of the assembly it is wider at the bottom than the top. http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page86.htm
This will keep you from dropping in down from the top, as it will not fit between the rails. I used a Xacto to cut the ties, then drilled some holes in the wood, and used the Xaco key hole saw blade to connect the holes. Then I slipped the plate between the roadbed and track and pushed the coil assembly up from the bottom. Attach the top plate and your done.
Edit: I checked the current draw and if anyone is interested they draw between 1.2-1.3 amps.
Hope this helps,
Jim
Either one is. The between the rails version will catch on some locos if you just set it on the rails. Usually you need to remove the rails and set it in. I have not used or seen the under the track version.
Per the Kadee website, both will support delayed uncoupling.
Glenn
Guys, go to this web site of Kadee, good info … http://www.kadee.com/animation/c1.htm
I like the “above the track” uncoupler better than the elec. It’s also cheaper http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/dto/item380-321.html
one more question- does this magnet work with, say, Accumate couplers? Or only Kadee?
One thing to watch out for with magnetic uncoupling and free rolling cars is make sure the grade as you approach the magnet is not too steep. If you are towing a string of free rolling cars downgrade they can bunch up behind the engine and you can get a lot of false uncouplings until you change the grade. (I refuse to answer any questions on how this was discovered!)
Tom
Yes, grades are a problem around uncouplers too, both up and down grades. They prevent uncoupling and can also produce unwanted uncoupling. I should have mentioned that with the curve problem, but Fiatfan caught it and covered it well.
The above the tie uncouplers plopped perfectly into place (using the $3 gauge) on code 100 track, if any locos catch on it, the “hoses” need adjustment, not the magnet.
The magnets act on all the knuckle type HO couplers I have, Bachman, Kadee and other various brands.
One of the guys at my LHS suggested rubber cement to fix the above tie magnets, I took his advice and it immediately paid off as Moving the magnet to the proper place was simply a matter of prizing it up, cleaning up the rubber cement, (30 seconds rubbing with a finger) and plopping it back down in the new spot. This is not the place for CA.
Hey Fiatfan, how did you discover that grades and magnets don’t mix? Sounds like a good story, please tell all.
I’m using code 100 Atlas flex track, and the above-the-ties magnets definitely do NOT sit properly between the rails. They are too high, and my P2K S1 actually “runs aground” when the trucks pass over the magnet. It’s not an issue of the coupler “hoses” being too low, but rather the design of the locomotive trucks themselves. I ground down the ties so the magnet now sits flush with the rails, and both loco and couplers work they way they’re supposed to. I should note that this is the only locomotive in my stable that has this problem.
I second the rubber cement idea. I’ve glued and moved several magnets now with rubber cement. None has come loose unless I wanted it to, and then it was a piece of cake to remove, clean up and re-attach.
I refuse to answer on the grounds it will make me look like an idiot. It’s like the old saying “It’s better to keep your mouth shut and look like a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!”
Tom
Tom, when dropping cars on a downgrade, loco uphill, and droppee downhill, stopping over the magnet, then a quick jolt of throttle uphill and back to power off, usually creates enough slack for the droppees to uncouple.
Like you, I refuse to discuss how I came by this knowlege.
I’ll leave to your imagination what happens next for the uncoupled cars.
If you have code 100 or code 70 track, go for it. Otherwise, forget it. I bought one to test (I use code 83 track) and what a pain. I managed to get it all rigged up at the proper distance fromt he railhead (on a test piece of track) but operation was sporadic with an old 1 amp powerpack to power it - I guess it needs a LOT more power.
There have been some magazine articles that show hw to make it more hidden - which is good, in stock form it is VERY noticeable (and ugly). I decided to just forget about it. Maybe you will have better luck.
–Randy