Kadee Questions
It’s time to buy more couplers. I used the #5s for 40 plus years. I went to the #148 about 8 years ago and fell in love with Whisker centering.
Two years ago I was having uncoupling issues with my Athearn Streamline cars and I installed the #119 SE shelf couplers and that solved the uncoupling problems.
My question is regarding the SE couplers, anyone out there have input on the #58 SE Scale couplers, pros and cons if there are any.
Thanks in advance for your input.
Mel
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Mel,
The #58 looks good, but proved too finicky for my track. Since the head is scale-size, the amount of vertical overlap is reduced over the #5 and its equivalents. This means that you start seeing unwanted uncoupling on longer cars in the vertical curves. Nothing drastic, but I have a lot of hidden track, so it’s worrisome. Took a few off, but mostly not adding any.
I am in the same camp as mlehman on this one. A few of the scale couplers managed to sheak in on my layout and they gave me unwanted uncouplings like I never had before. Perhaps if my trackwork was closer to perfect? But I accept the compromise and stay with the number 5’s.
While on the subject, What do you feel are the advantages of the whisker centering? The old school design works fine for me. Not a challenge, just asking for information.
Charlie
Charlie,About a 2 second drop in versus placing the centering spring and then coupler in the coupler box.
As far as scale couplers if your track is decent without dips or sudden inclines scale couplers will work.
Mel,
Although I never had any issues on my layout, I would agree that the scale couplers - like the #58s - will be less forgiving about vertical play than the #5s. That said, I’ve been very happy with the look and operation of #58s and #158s (whisker-version) on my locomotives and rolling stock. And they couple just fine with any #5s.
I buy my #58s/#158 in bulk, as they are less expensive that way. And, as soon as a locomotive or piece of rolling stock comes in, it immediately gets outfitted with the replacement Kadee coupler.
Tom
The whisker coupler, for me, based upon my hand tests, seems to result in both smoother and faster centering of the coupler than the old #5 springs, which I hated dealing with, too. Additionally, the whisker coupler will better fit some of the tighter, more restricted coupler boxes out there on today’s rolling stock because no spring is required, so vertically it takes up less space. I have been able to install whisker couplers on some rolling stock where either the thickness or the width, or both, of the traditional #5 spring and coupler setup would absolutely not fit the box.
My layout is all Kato sectional track, with the longer sections used where possible to eliminate joints. I am able to use the Kadee #158 couplers on most engines and rolling stock. However, occasionally long cars will have issues due to vertical displacement. In some cases the off brand, clone couplers are sagging too low already and may come uncoupled from cars that have #158 couplers installed at correct height off the rail.
Rapido’s couplers are absolutely the worst of the clone knuckle couplers on my layout. I immediately remove them from any Rapido rolling stock and throw them away as they will cause derailments even for me, who has only one turnout on the entire mainline. Their lame couplers sag and had to be replaced with Kadee long shank (I believe overset) couplers. As soon as I do that on Rapido passenger cars, the derailments are gone and things operate very well. Otherwise they are nice passenger cars (except beware paint overspray around lettering boards).
John
The semi-scale KD’s are less forgiving, but I’ve noticed they come stock on a lot of the freight cars I’ve been buying such as ExactRail and the new Wheels of Time bulkhead flat cars. They do look clsoer to scale true.
Other than a bulk pack KD58’s I found for half off, I don’t plan on buying anything but #148 whisker going foward. I prefer them for better smoother operation and reliability. The larger head KD’s also have a better gathering range and while the semi-scale head do mate ok with them, it requires a bit more force. Since generally couplers are between cars and not a as easily seen as other details, it doesn’t bother me that they are a bit over-sized. I prefer the operational reliability and smoothness over appearance in this case.
The absolute only issue I have ever had with scale 58’s or 158’s, is they require a lot of force to couple with 118 shelf couplers.
So, anything that gets coupled to a 118 shelf coupler gets a 5 or 148, everything else does not seem to mind the scale couplers.
I just finished up overhauling 6 bay window cabooses top to bottom and I want to replace the #5 couplers with Whiskers.
I went with the Whisker coupler just after I retired and that was 8 years ago. I have had very good luck using the Whiskers, they fit the older draft gear perfect. No tinkering around with the little brass thingy and I’ve never had one stick to the side.
I guess I should experiment with a few #58s before going wild, I really haven’t put my track to the test for dips or sudden inclines.
That could have been my uncoupling problem with my Athearn 72’ passenger cars that the Shelf couplers fixed. They would occasionally randomly uncouple going forward but most of the uncoupling was in reverse. When backing up my Daylight passenger upon stopping sometimes several cars would drop. I’ve never had any uncoupling problems using the Scale Shelf Couplers, except for manual uncoupling. They do their job super good and never
I’ve been adding the scale couplers in places where they’re most visible, but maybe don’t get used that much, like the front coupler of a steam engine, or the rear coupler on a caboose (I know cabooses go either way, but since I have crews in them, I prefer to only run them in one direction). I got the idea from Norm Charboneau’s layout; he’s a 1:48 scale model that uses three rail track. He uses the Lionel type couplers, except he will use Kadees in some spots, like the pilot coupler of the lead unit of a set of Atlas F-units. The other couplers are the Lionel-type ones.
I often do the very same (some locomotive pilots are designed to accommodate only a certain coupler easily).
Sometimes, with locomotives, I’ll use a #148 on the back of the tender to accommodate the vast majority of rolling stock.
Also, much rolling stock does come with #158 factory installed now, too, including most MTH freight cars.
John
I ordered two four packs of the Kadee #158 and they came in today. I installed them on Roundhouse 34’ coaches and put them to a rigorous test on my layout. I beat them up pretty bad with a SD9 and the couplers hung in there pretty good. I had a couple of disconnects but I was pretty hard on them.
Normal running using my Mantua 10 wheeler they preformed very good, no unplanned uncouplings.
They did well through turnouts and my vertical curves fast and slow, forward and reverse.
I’m going to buy the #158 in bulk for all my rolling stock but my Athearn 72 footers. I’m going to stick with the Scale Shelf couplers on my Daylight passenger cars.
I want to thank everyone for your input.
Mel
Hope they continue to do well for you.
I certainly prefer the appearance, but they have to work. My issues have been very few.
John
Mel,
I will have to try a 119 then, thanks for the tip.