The Kadee uncoupler magnets are just a bit too high for code 83 track. It appears they are designed for code 100 rail. They tend to snag coupler pins that are at the correct height, according to my coupler guage. Does anyone else have this problem, and is there any other remedy, other than shaving down the ties under the magnets. Does Kadee make magnets for code 83 track? Thanks.
Would putting the magnets under the ties work?
…or better yet, just get the under the track magnets. I think it looks better when the magnet is completely unseen.
Kadee makes the “on the ties” magnets in two sizes for Code 100 and Code 83 tracks. You should use Kadee #322 for code 83 tracks.
I use the under the ties magnet. In the class yard I use them without the steel plate. At some spots I use them movable.
Wolfgang
Some time ago there were a couple of threads about using small-diameter supermagnets, mounted in holes outside the rail line, for fixed-point uncoupling of Kadees. Someone who keeps better records than I do may have a link, or the Search function might turn them up.
My own preference is for the under-the-track variety. For use on through tracks, I mount them on steel hinges that drop them well below the subgrade when not needed. The pull-up linkage is a length of monofilament leader with a big bead on the end, routed through screw eyes to the fascia. Gives a whole new meaning to the old term, Pulling the pin…
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I have both code 83 track and Kadee #322 uncoupler magnets on my layout. I check ALL of my rolling stock coupler heights with the Kadee coupler height gauge, and I’ve had to shave the track under ALL of my magnets.
Good idea–unless one forgets where they’re buried before he marks 'em…[(-D]
Don’t ask…I ain’t a’ tellin’.[(-D]
I found that the between-the-rails magnets were too high, even on Code 100 rails, and I had to shave the ties down. My problem wasn’t the couplers, and the magnet was mounted properly according the the Kadee gauge, but I have a Proto S1 switcher that has low clearance and would “run aground” on the magnets.
Since then, I’ve gone to below-the-ties magnets for all my new installations, and electromagnets on the mains.
Thanks for all the good info. I think I’m going to shave the ties for the magnets I already have, and go to the under the ties type for any more. Do the under the ties type work OK, being lower under the couplers?
From what I hear, they work fine. If you use the electromagnets, I think they have a stronger magnetic attraction than the permanent magnets. If I had planned a little better, I could have buried mine during the tracklaying stage. When I shave my ties, I lay the uncoupler where I’m going to place it, then mark the ties that need to be shaved. I use a heavy duty cutting disk in a Dremel (only because it’s thicker) and running the disk perpendicular to the ties shave a little at a time. Don’t worry if you go a little too far. I hold mine in place with acrylic latex caulk, so if I need to raise it a little, I can just add a little heavier bead.
My under-the-track Kadee magnet works great. I’ve got an odd track arrangement where two industrial sidings cross at 30 degrees. I put the magnet under the crossing, and it activates the couplers on both sidings.
Marlon makes a couple of good points about shaving and gluing. I would recommend shaving the ties on your workbench, rather than trying to do it after you’ve glued the track down. It’s just a lot easier to get it right. (Yeah, I’ve tried it both ways, and learned my lesson.) I glued mine on with rubber cement. That way, it will stay in place indefinitely, but if I decide it needs to be re-positioned, it’s easy enough to remove.
If anyone has a recommendation for a power supply for the electromagnets, I’d love to hear it. Thanks.
Yes, so did I but only very light sanding on Atlas flex track. With the code 100 magnets is heavy cutting.
The under track magnets with a steel intensifier plate are the strongest. Kadee even recommends them for O scale. Use a Dremel tool with a end cutting bit (115 High Speed Cutter) to thin the ties for the over the tie uncouplers. It seems the track isn’t as consistent as people might think. I’ve thinned some ties a lot, some not at all. If you are going to pull any cars over the top of the magnets use a delayed uncoupler. Moving the uncoupler as others have shown or the electromagnetic ones are for main line use. The uncouplers work when you don’t want them to.
I had the between-the-ties magnets (HO scale by the way) and like the others had some pins drag and some locos run aground. All pins were adjusted to the coupler gauge when installed. I was going to trim ties when I found the under track magnets (308s?). They are very good, powerful comes to mind and work through the ballast as if it wasn’t there. I think because of the width, the pins swing much further to the side than the between the tracks magnets. This makes for a very positive uncoupling.
My first experience with an under-the-track magnet was one installed under the center of a double slip switch! The engineer just had to remember to keep moving if he was making a through pull.
As for the electromagnet, I’m thinking of trying a wall wart designed for fast recharging of an 18V power tool. I have a couple (orphaned when their power tools died) in my collection of odd power supplies. Some kind of current limiting resistor might be required. Since any such experiments are 'way down at the bottom of the page of my priority list…
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I use the under the ties magnets by Kadee for yards, passing sidings and industrial spurs. I use the electromagnets for the mainline. I prefer not to see the magnets because they do not look prototypical. Remember to use some kind of marker so that visitors to your layout will know where the magnets are located. As pointed out, the Kadee #322 is “on the tie” magnet for code 83 track.