On this layout, where would you place what kind of uncoupler. Assume that travel will be in both directions. The “yard” looking area is all industrial. The Spur off the top runaround is engine service.
I have a coupler guage.
New Question below.
This is the closest picture to what it will look like.
I have a coupler guage.
New Question below.
Hi Chip!
You will want to put magnetic uncouplers at the throat of every siding, and… Any other place that you would normally ucouple the train. On the 4 X 8, I would just use the old bamboo skewer trick if you will be near the train when you need to uncouple. It actually works better and there is no need to camoflage the magnets. Just a thought.
All but one of the layouts in my “operating” group and my club, are going through ripping out all the Kadee uncouplers. We have all been converted to the bambo skewer uncoupling method. We wish we hadn’t spent all that money on magnets through the years.
The only place there are magnets is in places that cannot be reached with a skewer.
But to answer your question. A lot of the places that would the best sights for magnets are on curves, so there will have to be multiple magnets to accomplish what one could have.
There needs to be one at the front of each of the “green” spurs, as well as one in the main right after the spur turnout.
Will one fit one fit between the turnout off the passing siding and the first turnout of the three blue ones in the center? If so that would be good. If not each of the three blue sidings will need one.
one at either end of the blue main line center top (between the siding turouts).
maybe on the inside of same said blue siding.
How big is that layout? Is it a 4 X 8 board or bigger? Thanks.
It’s 4.5 x 8 as you see it, but I’ve added staging, so now it is 5 ’ 2" x 8.
TZ,
I currently use the skewer method, but I cannot skewer and reach the control panel. Before some says put a UT5 back in the back, there’s already one there. The control panel is in the front and that is where I have to throw turnouts. It is very tiring throwing a turnout. Running to the back to skewer, then running back to throw the next turnout.
Besides soon there will be a backdrop and some switching will be difficult to reach.
Chip,
i’ve found that the best place for the uncouplers is in yard turnouts at the straight and the deverging track just close enough so that the trains clear each other when they pass…this way the switch engine doesn’t have to go all the way down the yard track to uncouple…that’s not very effecient when your on a time clock…don’t put them on main lines because there’s always that one car that will uncouple itself from the train…if you have to uncouple on the mainline then the bamboo skewers or a jewler’s screwdriver is best…I have then on spurs and in my yard only and if i do get a car that breaks away unententionally, it goes directly to the RIP track for repair…usually it’s a hose hanging too low that needs a mere adjustment with a pair of kadee coupler pliers, but a hanging coupler is not out of the question either…chuck
i tore all my delayed uncouplers out also long ago.had to much trouble with the couplers not quite opening up all the way.i to use the skrewers and non delayed uncouplers which are very reliable.i’ve installed 148 couplers.going to put a delayed uncoupler on the layout and see how the 148 works(opens up for delayed uncoupling).terry…
I’ve been using moveable Kadee uncoupling ramps for years, and have been happy with the results. One technique is to put a piece of steel (tin can metal) under the ties where you might need to uncouple, then snap a magnet to the tie tops when you want to uncouple there. Another is to mount an under-the-tie magnet on some kind of hinge mechanism that will keep it well below the roadbed unless uncoupling is required.
I have used the snap-down system, and will be experimenting with the magnet-on-a-hinge for use on my under-construction empire.
I would say in looking at your first picture, you have (or have had) bigger problems than where to put uncouplers (basement wall corner)… On your topic though, I have to agree with TZ… They are more of a pain than they are worth unless you are talking about the electromagnets. The problem with the pm types, is that they work when you don’t want them to and they don’t work when you want them to. Unless all your pins are dead on perfect (in my experience anyway) the uncouplers aren’t very reliable. The $0.99 bag of bbq skewers are the best uncouplers i’ve ever found. The only thing they don’t really give is the action of pushing the car into place. All that said however, put them on the straight just after the turnouts on your industrial tracks. As poorly as they work on straight track, they Really suck on curved track. Do yourself a favor as well and invest in the kadee coupler height gauge.
Fortunately, the problem looks worse than it was. And it has been dealt with.
I mounted mine using the Kadee uncoupler gauge and rubber cement clue. That allowed me to unmount them and move them if need be.
I have one near a slight grade, and it’s hard to uncouple there. Part of the process involves getting slack in the couplers to be uncoupled, so I sort of have to blip the throttle to jiggle the consist to get uncoupling to happen there. Unnoticable visually, the sound is a tip-off that wierdness is in progress.
Another one is before a sharp (15" radius) curve. It works as advertised, but the cars then recouple on the curve before they reach the drop-off point, leading to skewerage.
Another thing to be addressed is picking up and dropping off cars with one train. I have a pair of full boxcars that need picked up every morning, with an empty pair to be dropped off. The easiest way is to back in, snag the pair to be picked up, pull out and drop them on the main, then back in and drop the empty pair, but the uncoupler position makes this difficult to do. Instead I currently drop the new arrivals on an adjacent spur, grab the pickups, then grab the drops and finally back them onto the correct spur and drop them.
The point of all this is that your layout and your operations will determine where they need to go. Even if you plan to use under track mounted uncouplers, a pair of the between rails tie top uncouplers and some rubber cement allows you to try different placements and see how they actually work, before committing yourself to a fixed under rail placement.
What height do you place the uncoupler? If I set it right on the EZ track ties, it’s just slightly above the rails.
Anyone?
I had my kadee between the rails, delayed uncoupler surface mounted on the ties of old Tyco track, which I think is code 100. The magnet was actually a fraction of an inch above the rails, which is what the kadee documentation calls for. That was fine until I added life-like switchers to my layout. They hung-up on the magnet. Then I recessed the magnet so that it is even with the top of the rails (or slightly below). It works great and the engines don’t hang up on it. I may have had to lower the uncoupler pins just a little.
Jim
Mouse,
Per KD the magnets should be 0.015” above the rail. Unfortunately someone forgot to inform Life-Like of that. It has been mentioned on this forum and also by jim22 above that the switchers will not clear unless the magnets are level with the rail. I do not own any P2K switchers so I see no need to go back and lower mine just yet. If I were starting out fresh I might want to think about it.
Jim
According to Murphy’s Law, no matter how many uncouplers you install, after you ballast your track and begin operating, you will find another spot you need one. And remember, Murphy was an optimist.
Uh, thanks.
Chip
For what it is worth,I’ve used the KD ramps for years allso.A must is an KD track gauge,!! I place my ramps far enough down a sideing so I can get in with an switcher and clear the other tracks.Works for me!!
JIM
One other comment, you realize that in 1880 most couplers were link and pin, not knuckle couplers.
I find that the Kadee uncouplers work pretty well, but everything has to be just right for that to happen. First, of course, all the couplers must be adjusted to spec, so they match the coupler gauge. No exceptions here. Next, they need to be Kadees. No exceptions here, either. The plastic cheapos won’t open at all, and others won’t support the “delayed action” feature that lets you spot cars down the track after uncoupling.
Next, height. For most cars and engines, dropping the ramp in between the rails will work on Code 100. However, everyone has noticed that the P2K S1 switcher rides low, and for that reason I grind out some of the tie material and mount the magnet so its top is flush with the rail tops. This uncouples just as well, and clears everything. I found out the hard way that it’s much easier to do the grinding on your workbench before you glue down the track.
And finally, location. You need a straight section as long as the longest car or engine you plan to uncouple on each side of the uncoupler. This allows the coupler to be straight and centered on the track. If you have truck-mounted couplers, you can cheat on this rule because they will always line up, but body-mounts need the straightaway.
Happy Coupling on this Valentines Day! [:D]